Gen lll hemi install in a 67 barracuda

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fuzzman

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Hey all
Starting to make a list of parts that I need to gather to install a gen 3 hemi. I have a lot of questions
Can I use my 68 biscuit type Kframe? Noticed can’t figure where to buy the correct mounts
Do I need to change the whole front of the motor with the kit from Holley?
The 5.7 is out of 2017 Durango.
I know I need to change the oil pan. The oil filter right now has the 45% angle attachment on it or do I need to change that?
What about the computer for the motor do I need to use Hotwire harness? I don’t have the original computer for the motor.
The car is a four speed can I use it for my trans or go with a 727 or a newer trans?
What about headers?
Radiator?
Like I said I’m starting to put together a list and have a lot of questions
Thanks in advance for any help
Pat Faley
67 barracuda notchback
East Peoria IL
 
Mopar Action has a number of articles on this swap in Apr-Oct 2023. There are a number of clearance issues to address including alternator and oil filter. Holley has a solution, but there are others as well. Also see: Gallery: The Ultimate A-Body G3 Hemi Swap Guide with Project Orange Crush - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

and many other sources.
Best of luck. I understand that some 3G's need the motor moved forward by a small amount that leads to many other fitment issues.
 
Hey all
Starting to make a list of parts that I need to gather to install a gen 3 hemi. I have a lot of questions
Can I use my 68 biscuit type Kframe? Noticed can’t figure where to buy the correct mounts
Do I need to change the whole front of the motor with the kit from Holley?
The 5.7 is out of 2017 Durango.
I know I need to change the oil pan. The oil filter right now has the 45% angle attachment on it or do I need to change that?
What about the computer for the motor do I need to use Hotwire harness? I don’t have the original computer for the motor.
The car is a four speed can I use it for my trans or go with a 727 or a newer trans?
What about headers?
Radiator?
Like I said I’m starting to put together a list and have a lot of questions
Thanks in advance for any help
Pat Faley
67 barracuda notchback
East Peoria IL
Holley has a lot of options for A body swaps, I was shocked that they had options (engine mounts, transmission mounts, and oil pans for my 71 POWERWAGON, I went with Holley terminator x with for my truck Gen III hemi. Pricey but easy installations and user friendly. My truck has space for days for this swap, so space wasn’t an issue. I went with 46rh, bolted up to the newer hemi. Your 4spd bell housing will bolt up, crank hub required no modifications.
 
You will also need a fuel pump 50psi. You will more than likely have to do some tunnel work. It’s been years since I did mine and there is a lot more stuff out there available. The biggest thing is figure your budget. Look at about $5-6k if you don’t have a trans. I have an 05 5.7 with the 545rfe. Alterkation suspension. So most of what I used may not work as far as headers. The oil filter will have to be remote.
A factory ECU is not hard to get from a junk yard. I’ve pulled several for members here. If you go with the bigger automatic trans or a manual you will have do tunnel work.
Drive shaft $200

Radiator- Dillan Radiator online, $140 inexpensive, mine has lasted 14 years in Texas heat.
Fan-ford Taurus-$179

Headers TTI $800
Fuel pump, regulator-in the tank or external. I bought a new tank with fuel pump in it. $800 $125 for regulator
Management system-Holley, Mopar, megasquirt, Hotwire $1200
These are the prices I paid in 2009
My motor and trans with 36k was $2500 just to give you an idea.

You should spend a long time doing research. If you change your mind on something it could cost you big time. Most here know because it happened.

Search facebook for parts. I lost about $3000 grand because I didn’t do the research. But then again there was only a hand full of us on here doing it in 2009.
 
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The people and Modern Muscle were a huge help too. Most of what I bought I got from them. It was 1 stop shopping it was easy to keep track of that way. They sold everything at the dealer price.
 
I hate to ask but what is Modern Muscle and where are they located? I did a search and came up with all kinds of modern muscle sites.
Thanks
Pat
 
Another question i have do you need the computer that came with this motor? Or does the hotwire set up take care of that? I followed the step by step from Mopar Action they did on a 69 dart but they used a 73-spool type Kframe and, i would like to stay with my biscuit type kframe that i currently have. I noticed that schumacher sells that type of engine mounts but are currently out of stock and won't be available until April. like i said just starting to do my research and parts gathering
Thanks
Pat
 
Modern Muscle Extreme is the full name of the company. I believe they're in Martinsville, VA. I have had excellent experiences with Hotwireauto.com. Customer service is 2nd to none. They are starting to use the newer two plug computers. TTI makes the mounts you need. TTI has the headers you need. People ***** about the Milodon swap center sump pan, it's the only one I've ever used. With the factory gasket. No leaks. You'll need the appropriate oil pump pick up tube for the VVT engine. Any trans that bolts to a small block can be used on the gen 3, with appropriate conversion flywheel or flexplate.
 
Couple of comments to add.

In regards the FEAD kit from Holley, it comes down to what you want. If you want to keep AC and don’t want to swap to the later K-frame and use the Holley mounts then you probably need it. There is a thread on here by @Dantra where he modified the biscuit mounts to move the motor forward and cut his K-frame so he could keep the low mount AC compressor, and others have build custom mounts, but generally the low mount AC compressor doesn’t work with the stock motor location used by the biscuit mounts. If you don’t want AC then the only issue would be the PS frame rail interfering with the car alternator which is a simple cut to make.

The other thing to be aware of is the SRV solenoid on the 6.4 intake crashes with the firewall when the motor is in the stock location. Not a big deal if you run a 5.7 intake.

And I think you will have to run a hydraulic throw out bearing if you keep the 4 speed. Far as I remember, there aren’t any swap headers that clear. You might look into it more, but that’s what I found when I looked into it for my brother.
 
I used Hotwire. No you do not the ECM that came from the car. Their customer service is top notch. I went with digital gauges and they were excellent in helping hook up my tach.
Modern Muscle Extreme was very helpful when they weren’t as big in the Hemi stuff as they are now. In the beginning you could talk to Dave Weber directly. Now not so much they have gotten big into high horse power GenIII stuff. Like said above you can use any small block trans. Even a Toyota Supra has been done.
 
Hey all
Starting to make a list of parts that I need to gather to install a gen 3 hemi. I have a lot of questions
Can I use my 68 biscuit type Kframe? Noticed can’t figure where to buy the correct mounts
Do I need to change the whole front of the motor with the kit from Holley?
The 5.7 is out of 2017 Durango.
I know I need to change the oil pan. The oil filter right now has the 45% angle attachment on it or do I need to change that?
What about the computer for the motor do I need to use Hotwire harness? I don’t have the original computer for the motor.
The car is a four speed can I use it for my trans or go with a 727 or a newer trans?
What about headers?
Radiator?
Like I said I’m starting to put together a list and have a lot of questions
Thanks in advance for any help
Pat Faley
67 barracuda notchback
East Peoria IL

There are a few options for mounts for A bodies.
  • TTI - they have options for biscuit and spool mounts. Their mounts are designed to work with their headers. Accessories I actually have a set of p/n 57MMA that have never been used if you are interested in buying them.
  • Holley - only works with spool mounts and moves engine forward 2". Also requires you to use their trans mount to accommodate the forward position. Holley doesn't have headers anymore, you can use their manifolds or modify TTis to work.
  • Shumacker- Don't know much about these.
  • US Car tool - universal mount requires fabrication.
A remote oil filter will be required unless you make your own mounts.

The durango front drive accessories should be fine. A car accessory drives will require clearancing of the right side frame rail for the alternator. The factory AC compressor on the car accessory drive will not fit without heavy modification.

Sublime Technologies, formerly DIY Hemi can supply you with a quick run harness and ECM. They are also a very good resource for information.

Any smallblock transmission will work. A 904 or 727 will present some challenges for the kickdown linkage. A833 will require a pilot pushing for the crank. Modern transmissions will require tunnel modifications.

Holley has a nice cast aluminum oil pan. It will require you use 73 and up steering arms. Milodon and Kevco are some other options.


A hemi swap into an A-body isn't for the faint of heart. Do your homework and be prepared for a challenge.
 
Holley has a nice cast aluminum oil pan. It will require you use 73 and up steering arms.

Technically it is the center link, pitman arm and idler arm that is required. I am sure that is what you mean, but just so there isn’t any confusion.

And really good point. Seems like that has tripped several people up recently.
 
There are a few options for mounts for A bodies.
  • TTI - they have options for biscuit and spool mounts. Their mounts are designed to work with their headers. Accessories I actually have a set of p/n 57MMA that have never been used if you are interested in buying them.
  • Holley - only works with spool mounts and moves engine forward 2". Also requires you to use their trans mount to accommodate the forward position. Holley doesn't have headers anymore, you can use their manifolds or modify TTis to work.
  • Shumacker- Don't know much about these.
  • US Car tool - universal mount requires fabrication.
A remote oil filter will be required unless you make your own mounts.

The durango front drive accessories should be fine. A car accessory drives will require clearancing of the right side frame rail for the alternator. The factory AC compressor on the car accessory drive will not fit without heavy modification.

Sublime Technologies, formerly DIY Hemi can supply you with a quick run harness and ECM. They are also a very good resource for information.

Any smallblock transmission will work. A 904 or 727 will present some challenges for the kickdown linkage. A833 will require a pilot pushing for the crank. Modern transmissions will require tunnel modifications.

Holley has a nice cast aluminum oil pan. It will require you use 73 and up steering arms. Milodon and Kevco are some other options.


A hemi swap into an A-body isn't for the faint of heart. Do your homework and be prepared for a challenge.
Yes i would be interested in the motor mounts what do you want for them? Also mentioning the 73 steering arms. I did the upgrade to the 73 and up disc brakes which requires the 73 up lower steering arms. Do you need to also change the center link, pitman arm and idler arm? thanks for the input
Pat
 
Yes i would be interested in the motor mounts what do you want for them? Also mentioning the 73 steering arms. I did the upgrade to the 73 and up disc brakes which requires the 73 up lower steering arms. Do you need to also change the center link, pitman arm and idler arm? thanks for the input
Pat
Idler, pitman, and center link or drag link. I'll PM you about the mounts.
 
I was going to ask about your setup. If you had a 67 /6 kmember you have to upgrade because of the 67 pitman arm. Looks like you’re good to go in that area. 67 from what I found out is a 1year only and it gets in the way of everything
 
Hey all
Starting to make a list of parts that I need to gather to install a gen 3 hemi. I have a lot of questions
Can I use my 68 biscuit type Kframe? Noticed can’t figure where to buy the correct mounts
Do I need to change the whole front of the motor with the kit from Holley?
The 5.7 is out of 2017 Durango.
I know I need to change the oil pan. The oil filter right now has the 45% angle attachment on it or do I need to change that?
What about the computer for the motor do I need to use Hotwire harness? I don’t have the original computer for the motor.
The car is a four speed can I use it for my trans or go with a 727 or a newer trans?
What about headers?
Radiator?
Like I said I’m starting to put together a list and have a lot of questions
Thanks in advance for any help
Pat Faley
67 barracuda notchback
East Peoria IL
Do you have the original engine harness? You can save yourself some $$ by just getting a "quick ruicj harness" from sublime.. The quick run us about $900 and their ecm will run ya $400.
 
I was going to ask about your setup. If you had a 67 /6 kmember you have to upgrade because of the 67 pitman arm. Looks like you’re good to go in that area. 67 from what I found out is a 1year only and it gets in the way of everything
I did the upgrade to a 68 to 69 k frame because of the problem with the idler arm on a 67 k frame. When you do the 73 and up upgrade to disc brakes you have to change the lower ball joints and spindles.
 
You can check this thread out. I painted this car and the owner is a friend of mine and local to you and I. He is putting a 392 in it and can give you advise...hell he might have some of the parts you will need. He will definitely be able to point you in the correct direction and, you may be able to drive out and see how he is doing his.

Here we go again...Demon style.
 
Welcome to the Dark Side...
There are several G3 Hemi swap threads here. I suggest you read several! The more the better.
Don't skim through, read them...
More than just a couple options for many of the changes you will need to decide on.
They all have a cascading effect downstream.
K-Member - Stock or aftermarket - stock steering or convert to rack
Torsion bars or coil over - stock steering or convert to rack
Front accessory Drive, stock G3, Car, Truck, Holley, March Performance
AC or no AC
PS or no PS, or Electric PS, or rack and pinion? Rack and Pinion does your steering choice match your K-member
Any Small block Mopar Transmission will bolt up to a G3 engine, If it's an A833, 904 or 727, no need for tunnel surgery. Kickdown for Auto will need a workaround but solutions exist. Full Manual Valve Body Automatic eliminates the need for kickdown... But if you want modern G3 performance, the 8HP70 8-speed will launch like a rocket and purrr down the freeway... 8-speed requires major tunnel surgery. Add the cost of the 8HP70 and a controller (Sound German Automotive). Will need a custom driveline too. And the shifter from a vehicle that came with an 8-speed...
Also consider rear gear ratio for modern trans vs vintage auto or manual.
Lots of cooling options, consider all the plumbing, AC, Trans cooler, Power Steering.
Radiator options, LH platform donor/new, aftermarket, original w/funky hose crossing left to right with splices... I've seen them all ;-)
Exhaust! Tight fit! Do lots of home work here and consider all the places where clearance will be impacted... Steering box, T-bars, Firewall, steering column,
Steering column to G3 Valve cover clearance... cut, mod, move...
Power Brakes? Vacuum Booster clearance? Hydro-boost?
AC- Compressor location? G3 Low mount? Mod or relocate? A Slant 6 K-Member helps with this... but there are also some other creative cost effective solutions. There are some easy more costly solutions too... Holley Accessory drive kit or March Performance. Both are pretty spendy $$$

That scratches the surface.
Every challenge has been solved before and they are pretty much all documented here in the G3 Swap forum or somewhere else.
Doing your homework up front can save you time and money by having as complete a plan as possible.

All it takes is Time, Money and Ability... It's best to have plenty of all 3! :)
 
You can go with the Tremec TKX 5 speed they also have a tunnel kit for it. Check out Modern Muscle Extremes website. Tons of videos and tech support stuff on there. Tremec Transmission by MOPAR. It’s a lot of $$$ to me. But I would have done it if I hadn’t already had the 545rfe. I do a lot of long road trips in the car so I’m glad I did an Automatic with overdrive. Nothing like cruising at 75mph at 2100 rpm’s and 24 mpg. When I had the 81/4 I getting 27mpg. Now I have an 8.8 with 373 gears and get 24mpg. Going to Vegas next month to the Muscle cars at the strip from Texas and will do the autcross track and a little straight line racing. But I prefer corners.
 
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Welcome to the Dark Side...
There are several G3 Hemi swap threads here. I suggest you read several! The more the better.
Don't skim through, read them...
More than just a couple options for many of the changes you will need to decide on.
They all have a cascading effect downstream.
K-Member - Stock or aftermarket - stock steering or convert to rack
Torsion bars or coil over - stock steering or convert to rack
Front accessory Drive, stock G3, Car, Truck, Holley, March Performance
AC or no AC
PS or no PS, or Electric PS, or rack and pinion? Rack and Pinion does your steering choice match your K-member
Any Small block Mopar Transmission will bolt up to a G3 engine, If it's an A833, 904 or 727, no need for tunnel surgery. Kickdown for Auto will need a workaround but solutions exist. Full Manual Valve Body Automatic eliminates the need for kickdown... But if you want modern G3 performance, the 8HP70 8-speed will launch like a rocket and purrr down the freeway... 8-speed requires major tunnel surgery. Add the cost of the 8HP70 and a controller (Sound German Automotive). Will need a custom driveline too. And the shifter from a vehicle that came with an 8-speed...
Also consider rear gear ratio for modern trans vs vintage auto or manual.
Lots of cooling options, consider all the plumbing, AC, Trans cooler, Power Steering.
Radiator options, LH platform donor/new, aftermarket, original w/funky hose crossing left to right with splices... I've seen them all ;-)
Exhaust! Tight fit! Do lots of home work here and consider all the places where clearance will be impacted... Steering box, T-bars, Firewall, steering column,
Steering column to G3 Valve cover clearance... cut, mod, move...
Power Brakes? Vacuum Booster clearance? Hydro-boost?
AC- Compressor location? G3 Low mount? Mod or relocate? A Slant 6 K-Member helps with this... but there are also some other creative cost effective solutions. There are some easy more costly solutions too... Holley Accessory drive kit or March Performance. Both are pretty spendy $$$

That scratches the surface.
Every challenge has been solved before and they are pretty much all documented here in the G3 Swap forum or somewhere else.
Doing your homework up front can save you time and money by having as complete a plan as possible.

All it takes is Time, Money and Ability... It's best to have plenty of all 3! :)
Well written!
 
Welcome to the Dark Side...
There are several G3 Hemi swap threads here. I suggest you read several! The more the better.
Don't skim through, read them...
More than just a couple options for many of the changes you will need to decide on.
They all have a cascading effect downstream.
K-Member - Stock or aftermarket - stock steering or convert to rack
Torsion bars or coil over - stock steering or convert to rack
Front accessory Drive, stock G3, Car, Truck, Holley, March Performance
AC or no AC
PS or no PS, or Electric PS, or rack and pinion? Rack and Pinion does your steering choice match your K-member
Any Small block Mopar Transmission will bolt up to a G3 engine, If it's an A833, 904 or 727, no need for tunnel surgery. Kickdown for Auto will need a workaround but solutions exist. Full Manual Valve Body Automatic eliminates the need for kickdown... But if you want modern G3 performance, the 8HP70 8-speed will launch like a rocket and purrr down the freeway... 8-speed requires major tunnel surgery. Add the cost of the 8HP70 and a controller (Sound German Automotive). Will need a custom driveline too. And the shifter from a vehicle that came with an 8-speed...
Also consider rear gear ratio for modern trans vs vintage auto or manual.
Lots of cooling options, consider all the plumbing, AC, Trans cooler, Power Steering.
Radiator options, LH platform donor/new, aftermarket, original w/funky hose crossing left to right with splices... I've seen them all ;-)
Exhaust! Tight fit! Do lots of home work here and consider all the places where clearance will be impacted... Steering box, T-bars, Firewall, steering column,
Steering column to G3 Valve cover clearance... cut, mod, move...
Power Brakes? Vacuum Booster clearance? Hydro-boost?
AC- Compressor location? G3 Low mount? Mod or relocate? A Slant 6 K-Member helps with this... but there are also some other creative cost effective solutions. There are some easy more costly solutions too... Holley Accessory drive kit or March Performance. Both are pretty spendy $$$

That scratches the surface.
Every challenge has been solved before and they are pretty much all documented here in the G3 Swap forum or somewhere else.
Doing your homework up front can save you time and money by having as complete a plan as possible.

All it takes is Time, Money and Ability... It's best to have plenty of all 3! :)
As 408 Swinger said... well written

I think it all comes down to how far are you willing to go. There's a plethora of knowledge here and on some of the FB groups. "G3 Hemi Swap" and "G3 Swapped A Body Mopars" are the better FB groups. No matter where you go, there will be alot of advice and direction pointing and most of it is accurate with some whackadoodlry here and there. You'll also find yourself having to really think outside of the box at times. You'll find yourself asking questions about whatever and then once it's done and you're past it.. it really wasn't that big of a deal afterall. You're gonna learn some stuff and feel better for it.. Then you pass it on brutha.

As you said "All it takes is Time, Money and Mobilty... It's best to have all 3". You left out the part that says... Whatever you think any of those 3 will take... Double it at the very least. The heart wants what the heart wants, and there's no stopping it!
 
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