Dirty D - 73 Duster Street/Strip Build

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inZane240

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Copied from my member intro:

"Picked up this car a little over a year ago from a friend who had owned it since the 90s and daily drove it throughout high school/college, but had stopped running for him and sat for at least the last 10-12 years. Prior to that it was originally purchased/owned by a little old lady out of South San Francisco.

73, originally rallye red, 225 automatic, space duster, bikini vinyl (rust)...that's about it....Oh and a tired single stage Viper Red Earl Scheib paint job. Nothing special, but a relatively rare find, even for California, where these will still rot in to the ground if left unattended. It does have some rust here and there, small bubbles in the paint, and some repaired crash damage so not worth restoring given it's a run-of-the-mill duster, but a great foundation for a fun street/strip car.

I was able to get it running as soon as I brought it home, but some collapsed front brake lines were incentive enough for me to start teardown. I've fully built a couple cars so far in my lifetime (datsuns), and I always strive to maintain a period correct look, but upgrading with "modern" mechanicals along the way. This build will be no different. I'm about half way through it now, just waiting on some $$$ for the motor/trans. I stripped it down to the body, repaired some rust along the way, installed an entirely new/rebuilt front subframe and a shortened 8.8 out of an explorer. Suspension upgrades include rear mono-leaf, caltracs knock off, double adj QA1 front and rear, tubular upper control arms, rebuilt LCA, QA1 tension rods, and some other stuff I forgot. I picked up a used 360/727, but after teardown they seem to be junk. They will make good cores."

They Day I picked it up from my friend:

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Back at home:

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The car was mechanically sound, but had stopped running for my friend. He started replacing parts without really diagnosing the issue and eventually gave up. I was left with a puzzle that needed putting back together. No big deal, it was just going to take some time. New fuel, fuel filter, and plugs for good measure. Here's the old fuel I siphoned out of the tank. No idea why it was black:

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I was able to get the car to start but it ran like crap. Fuel was pouring out the vent tube of the carb, which I'm pretty sure meant stuck float, but rather than just fix the float, I rebuilt the whole thing. Finally got the car running, so I took it around the block. First drive in a decade. Felt good. Went to start the car the next morning, just for fun, and no start. No power was getting to the ignition relay. After a couple hours of head scratching, I inverted myself under the dash and found an aftermarket alarm. It had a "shock" sensor that was cutting power to the ignition relay. Another hour or so later I had the entire alarm removed and it started up no problem, but now I had another problem. I was seeing bits of rust in that clear fuel filter I installed. No bueno. I pulled it up to the lift to see what else needed to be done. The front wheels were difficult to rotate, a sure sign of collapsed front lines. The writing was on the wall...time to start the project.

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Paint is in decent condition and I will do as much as I can to bring it back to life. There are some dead spots that are beyond saving, but a new paint job is not in the budget.

STRIP IT DOWN

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Time to fix the roof/pillars.
I weighed the options on what to do with the roof for a long time. Re-cover with vinyl, paint red, paint black, etc. I finally decided to paint the roof black. A couple hundred $ in materials and a ton of labor hours, would be cheaper than a vinyl recover or painting the roof red and trying to eliminate the bikini trim all together. Plus it would be easier to maintain and hopefully last longer than a vinyl replacement.

I once owned a 2011 Charger R/T and loved the black color so much I decided to use it for the roof. It's a metallic and really pops in the sun. In the shade it looks solid black.

So after lots of sanding, filler, epoxy priming, color, clear, sanding and polishing it came out really good. Not perfect, but I'm not a professional either. A ton of labor, but worth not paying someone else to do it.

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That roof is so shiny, it took a moment to realize what I was looking at. At first I thought maybe the trunk or bare floor pan; nope, the reflection of the shop roof! Looks awesome!!
 
Decided to go with an explorer 8.8 due to cost, however in the end I'm not sure I saved any money. These things aren't inexpensive anymore and there were non locally up for grabs. The recycler I went to had to ship one in from out of state. For a few more dollars, probably could have gone with a barebones ford 9" or S60. Oh well.

New axles, new brakes, and a fancy diff cover.

As received, rustier than hell:
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All cleaned up, perches removed, and shortening the drivers side:

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Axle tube sectioned and end tacked in to place:

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All done. Probably should have run a hotter weld, but didn't want to warp the tube:

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Nice and purty:

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Its amazing what 20/30 years of leaking transmission fluid being flung around the underside of a car by the driveshaft will do to the undercoating....it practically dissolves it. You could literally scrape the coating off with your fingernail. In addition to breaking down the undercoating, it also provided great rust protection. Underneath that softened undercoating was practically rust free steel.

A couple hours with a 4" wire brush on the end of a grinder and the underside of the car was ready for epoxy.

While I was there I also fabricated and installed some subframe connectors using tips from the forum.

The makings of the subframe connectors:
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Epoxy coated:

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Subframe connectors and epoxy coated floor:

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back half one of the Z's and put a nice 360 in it...

I've got a 75 shell that I one day want to road race. Plans are for a short stroke LS. I already have the pieces to convert the rear to current gen mustang IRS with the 8.8. One day...

The white one has a draw through turbo 280zx engine and the yellow one has a stroked 2.9L that dyno'd at 265hp. Stock was 120hp!
 
After the 8.8 was done, it was time to install. I got split monos, knock off caltracs, dr diff offset kit, and qa1 double adjustable to install. All real nice stuff.

Perches will be welded later, once the driveline is in, so I can get the angle right.

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OK, so I ordered some 15x6 and 15x10 Wheel Vintuqes Chysler OE wheels and of course the 15x10s were on backorder. Meanwhile I fitted up the 15x6 on the rear axle and after some repeated measuring I realized the offset/backspacing on the 15x10s I ordered was NOT going to work with the 8.8 axle. Oops. I quickly cancelled the order and found a wheel that would. US wheel had a 15x10 in 5x4.5 with an offset that would work in my situation and they were relatively cheap to boot. I quickly ordered and had them in a few days.

The powdercoat finish on them is a gloss black, which I'm not a huge fan of, and the powdercoating quality was honestly pretty bad, but they fit perfect and I can't argue with that.

I got some beefy boy bias ply hoosiers for that period look, which were also backordered. Once they came in and I got everything mounted, I fell in love...


15x6 with string line tapped to inner arch
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15x6
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15x6 vs 15x10
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DISH
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Hoosiers
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Nice roof.... I had an 09 R/T Challenger that may have been the same color with the flake in it!
 
Nice roof.... I had an 09 R/T Challenger that may have been the same color with the flake in it!
Yup, that's the one! I cant remember the exact name, but it's real colorful when the light hits it.
 
Some more rust repair. Pretty minor. Should have blended the rest while I was at it...

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Decided to paint the engine bay. Pretty sure the paint shop sold me some bad stuff or gave me same bad advice. Who knows. Coverage was very poor.
I also made the mistake of using black primer because of my impatience. Anyways, I'm going to have to redo it.

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He didn't make it.
 
Looks like you will be on the road quickly.
 
With the front subframe out of the car, the suspension was a little easier to manhandle and take apart. I ended up using none of it except for the k-member, spindles, and rotors. I was able to source rebuilt lower front control arms and rebuilt front calipers locally from a member. Upper control arms and tension rods are QA1. New MOOG joints all around. Had the front rotors turned and I repacked them with new Timken bearings.

Reinforced the lower control arms and beefed up the K-member a bit. Cant believe how bad the factory welds were... Also modified the K-member for Schumacher /6 to small block motor mounts.

Suspension in a box:
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Before:
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After:

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Reinforcing the K-member:

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Reinforcing LCAs

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Everything installed:

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