Help! I bit off more than I can chew! Body work

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No one mentioned restoring the corrosion protection! If you are replacing metal you will need to apply a zinc coating called "weld-through primer". Just a couple thin coats to all bare surfaces. You will still be able to see thru it! This should be done before any welding is done. When you weld these pieces together the zinc will melt back into the metal and restore its corrosion properties. I remove the lead and welded up all of the factory seams and filled with "Allmetal" filler that has aluminum in it. Be sure not to apply to much cause once hardened it is very hard to sand. Once this is done apply a coat of "metal glaze" from evercoat. This is excellent due to it having adhesives in it rather than sticking to just scratches in the surface. NO BONDO!! That **** will shrink and pop off over time. After you final sand the metal glaze if there is a large area of bare metal you will need to apply an acid etch primer first. Just 2 thin coats to bare metal only that you will still be able to see thru! Once that has flashed apply filler primer and final sand. You will need to use a good sealer first then you can apply the color coat then the clearcoat. If you use seamsealer be sure NOT to use 3m fast & firm, it will haunt you later!! Get a good 2 part seamsealer from IES. Most bodyshop supply stores carry good products and can advise you of what you might need. This is coming from a Master collision and refinish tech(Retired). After all this has been completed be sure to apply some undercoat to the backside of the repair to keep moisture from ruining the repair you have just completed. GOOD LUCK!! I have done this thousands of times over the years.
 
went with 3m light weight body filler and started on the roof seam that was under the vinyl top. used a grinder to remove the rust. filled with filler and primed. now i see my mistakes and will attempt to fix. ive been using a palm sander which is all i have. would using a sanding block be a better way to go? funds limited. i can still see where the seam is. need to build up a little more. my plan is to leave the vinyl off and paint the whole car and i want it to look right. any tips on this particular area would be great. will load a pic of this shortly.
 
I would use a rubber block use 40 grit to sand the bondo and 80 to 120 for the 2 stage putty you will have to feather it out wider then the seam if you run your hand over it you will feel the waves keep goin till it feels smooth.
 
This area has more than one curve. I use paintsticks in this area with 180 after a good coat of Evercoat metalglaze. Apply all 8 fingertips across the stick and apply just enough pressure to flatten the stick across the surface. You can sand the primer with 180 and apply directly to it!! When glaze has tacked for 15-20 minutes sand with the paintstick wrapped in 180 in an X pattern until you achieve desired feel. This requires "Eyes in hands" to assure it smooth. I also use spraycan acrysol and spray the area to "see" the repair. This is a good technique for the novice bodyman! If you are not using the chrome trim, may as well grind the retainer off and apply a little glaze there too.

I did notice in the photo that the top part of the factory seam still looks "high". You may want to take a shrinking hammer or a dull centerpunch and a small hammer and lightly tap around that area until it feels even/lower. When you sand this area and the metal peeks back through stop sanding and start tapping/shrinking this area again. Bodywork can be a pain in the a$$ at times. Just be patient and take your time. You can DO IT!!
 
thanks for the help got some more supplies gonna try again in the am. will post progress as i go. not sure bout the chrome. plannin on leaving top off any opinions on that thanks again
 
hmmmmm not trying to throw salt on your wound....but er ahh.... There is no way a rattle can will give you the results you seek. Also the many products to use to fill, to seal and to layer epoxy or acid etch type primer is not something you want to do with a child anywhere in the picture and it may require that. additionally the many different fillers available may and often are used in conjunction with each other to produce the desired result...example starting off with a heavy metalic type filler and layering up using progressivly finer more refined materials is how I have seen it done many many times....unfortunately for the home enthusiast, these products can get expensive when you require 3 or 4 or 5 or 6 to acheive the desired result a smooth even level surface....over the years I have learned that lasting body, finely finished work requires years of experience and technique AND a gaggle of products most of us have never even heard of.....I made a list just to see if I could keep up and at last count there are probably 30 different kinds of primers with as many different specific uses and all of them can be altered by adding more or less reducer/thinner. SPray cans are about 70 - 80% propellent and only 20- 30 % product.....additionally non catylized paints are highly susceptable to moisture and the elements......you cannot learn all that while in progress and most of the chemicals are NOT something a kid should be around....they are harsh and often contain carcinogens....... unfortunatley about the only thing left for the avg consumer to do is "touch up" of minor scratches......body work that is going to be something to show off is better left to professionals who have mastered the art of mixing, use of the chemicals and application of same under whatever circumstances the situation calls for....all of this stuff is affected by heat, humidity, etc etc....I know they make it look easy....but going thru a class or 10 first is really the best way to learn the craft with todays products..... I wish you luck it is a nobel trade to teach your kid but it does come with a whole lot of learning about the products and chemicals that are used and how they apply and come into use
good luck but I think your title is accurate.....
 
understood no disrepect taken any and all help or advise much apreciated. not goin for show room or even close at this poiint. no harmful chems been used with my son around about all hes interested in is watching. gonna get it as good as i can till i can get it painted and the painter can do the finish work on the body. my biggest goal now is to stop the rust and keep it somewhat prsentable as i drive it regulary. the top was bubbling and peeling and the guy that i talked to about paint didnt want to do the removal of it so i figured id give it a go while saving for the paint.
 
pulled my left tail light out to repair a dent where my cousin ran into the back of it. the ligh housing is going to need replacing. anyone know where i can pick one up? idea of cost? thanks..
 
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