Holley Float Bowl Gaskets

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RustyRatRod

I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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Does anyone make Holley float bowl gaskets that are actually reusable? ALL of them I've tried get cut when I tighten down the float bowl screws....and I don't over torque them. Yes, I've tried SCE.
 
I've used the Holley blue gaskets and reused them many times with jet changes.

I did have an issue a while back where the initial installation was fine but subsequent re-used caused a leak, apparently after the gasket was initially compressed. Something in, on or around the carb was keeping the bowl from fully seating but the new gasket was thick enough initially to keep it from leaking. I just don't remember what it was!

Is your problem only with one bowl or both? Mine was rear only.

Not to use it as a permanent "fix" but to see what happens.....try 2 gaskets
 
I've used the Holley blue gaskets and reused them many times with jet changes.

I did have an issue a while back where the initial installation was fine but subsequent re-used caused a leak, apparently after the gasket was initially compressed. Something in, on or around the carb was keeping the bowl from fully seating but the new gasket was thick enough initially to keep it from leaking. I just don't remember what it was!

Is your problem only with one bowl or both? Mine was rear only.

Not to use it as a permanent "fix" but to see what happens.....try 2 gaskets
It's with both. I think I know what the issue is, I just need to address it. For some stupid reason, the bowls are cast with a "ridge" right in the center of the gasket space, all the way around the float bowl. Makes zero sense. So when the bowls are tightened down, that ridge cuts the gasket. I need to lean out the IFRs front and rear anyway so when I get those, I'll dress the gasket area with a dremel and report back. That should take care of it, but I cannot figure out why in the world they would be cast like that in the first place.
 
Rob I think I know what you're talking about. Had a 1bbl like that used a honing stone and dressed it flat.
 
The Holley blue gaskets are available from summit but not sure what carb you need them for - 1,2,4bbl. I got them recently for a Holley street warrrior.
I found chapstick on both sides helps with the separation. Not sure if cherry flavor or plain is the best. lol!

But if you’re cutting the gasket- Susie can’t help with that at all.
 
The Holley blue gaskets are available from summit but not sure what carb you need them for - 1,2,4bbl. I got them recently for a Holley street warrrior.
I found chapstick on both sides helps with the separation. Not sure if cherry flavor or plain is the best. lol!

But if you’re cutting the gasket- Susie can’t help with that at all.
Been through several sets. It's a Quick Fuel 650 DP.
 
I have great luck with this tip Rob.i take 320 fine sand paper and lightly sand the bowl and metering block,sometimes there is a sharp edge.Hope you get this fix.
 
Been through several sets. It's a Quick Fuel 650 DP.

Maybe put the bowl on a flat sanding surface like we would a water neck.
Though the moto tool would obviously work, it would be hard to get a uniform surface with it.
 
This is what I've used. They are reusable






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Maybe put the bowl on a flat sanding surface like we would a water neck.
Though the moto tool would obviously work, it would be hard to get a uniform surface with it.
I cannot do that. Man that would make it easy. The gasket area on the float bowls is recessed. In the middle of that recess is the casting ridge I'm talking about. When I get the gaskets and emulsion jets, I'll get some good pictures and post them.
 
I cannot do that. Man that would make it easy. The gasket area on the float bowls is recessed. In the middle of that recess is the casting ridge I'm talking about. When I get the gaskets and emulsion jets, I'll get some good pictures and post them.
I think that ridge is there to help "hold" the gaskets in place while you're installing them, nothing more, as the clamping force of the four bolts will hold them in place once installed. Of course I could be wrong, but if you have a spare float bowl laying around (I may have one somewhere, I truly don't know), I think it would be an interesting test to grind/machine that ridge out and see what happens, as I've had this same problem with the 4150 in my truck.

I'll be moving a lot of **** "stuff" from the shed up to the garage in the next month or so in order to gain some room so I can insulate the walls in there, so as I'm moving "stuff" I'll try to remember to look in each box for a spare bowl for you.
 
I cannot do that. Man that would make it easy. The gasket area on the float bowls is recessed. In the middle of that recess is the casting ridge I'm talking about. When I get the gaskets and emulsion jets, I'll get some good pictures and post them.
Ah crap, I forgot about the lip.
 
These are what came on my Thumper Carb. I have had the bowls off numerous times and although I have spares, I am still on the original set of gaskets.

Fuel Bowl Gasket, Red Fuel Bowl Gasket [ 5400VR455 ] - $1.95 : BLP, Xtreme Performance Made In USA

I’ve used a few of those and they are good gaskets but I didn’t have them apart more than 3 or times.

The Superformance gaskets I’ve had apart dozens of times.

I hope those BLP gaskets work because one source is never enough.
 
I’ve used a few of those and they are good gaskets but I didn’t have them apart more than 3 or times.

The Superformance gaskets I’ve had apart dozens of times.

I hope those BLP gaskets work because one source is never enough.
I talked to Greg at Superformance this morning. He referred me to Marsh Performance in NC. I called them and they have them in stock so I will get them first week next month. Greg is a super nice guy. Said he's had some serious health issues. He even said if I had trouble finding them to let him know and he'd take care of me. He normally doesn't sell to individuals. That's a small business we need around.
 
I talked to Greg at Superformance this morning. He referred me to Marsh Performance in NC. I called them and they have them in stock so I will get them first week next month. Greg is a super nice guy. Said he's had some serious health issues. He even said if I had trouble finding them to let him know and he'd take care of me. He normally doesn't sell to individuals. That's a small business we need around.

He is a good dude. The way I understand it is he does everything including packaging and shipping.

He’s a busy man.
 
He is a good dude. The way I understand it is he does everything including packaging and shipping.

He’s a busy man.
And a question for you. This is on my Quick Fuel 650 DP on my truck. 75 F250, 400 with old school Crane Fireball. 228/232 @ .050 on a 108. It was RIGHT AT 9:1. it runs great, but it stinks at idle and I know it can be better. It has 31s front and back for IFRs. I tried putting in larger idle air bleeds, but that did little to nothing, so I put the stock ones back. I think I went from 70 to 74 with zero change. So I "figure" changing the emulsion bleeds will make the difference. It's a four corner idle carburetor. Idle timing is about 44 degrees with the vacuum advance on full manifold vacuum. That actually helped some, but it's still overly rich. Transfer slots are square. Secondary blades are cracked JUST ENOUGH so they don't stock closed. Would you change the secondary idle IFRs too? "How much" do they affect idle mixture? I tried some 28s I had already and that made a little difference, but not what I hoped, so I put it all back stock so I'd have a baseline. I have some 26s on the way.
 
He is a good dude. The way I understand it is he does everything including packaging and shipping.

He’s a busy man.
Do I need to call your wife and get her to bop you upside the head? I asked a question, dork. lol
 
I've used the Holley blue gaskets and reused them many times with jet changes.
Same here, never a problem, in fact I've not had a problem with reusable Moroso oil pan and valve cover gaskets.
 
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