how much nitrous will a stock magnum motor take

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What else is there for a nitrous tune besides timing and cooler plugs? How much timing do you recomend puling out?
 
I'm running a 125 shot (55n/47f) on mine right now and have put about a dozen passes or so on it. I'm at 8 degrees of timing pulled to wind up at 26 total. I thought I was being very safe pulling that much and was surpirsed to see it was about right after reading the plugs.
 
goldmember said:
Its just a baseline for a safe timing pull, then you tune from there. Most kits are jetted on the richer side & thats what is recommended as a safe starting point, nothing written in stone. Not fare to make a rash statement, you are basically calling most in the nitrous business clueless or dumb because thats what they "still" recommend to this day, & i'm defending some of the best in the business.
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JoeDust451 said:
No set in stone rules, but there should be 2 in my book.

No warming bottle with torch.
No loose bottle in car.
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No warming the supply bottle with a torch to pack the little bottle you are filling
We did this for years. I'm short a really close friend due to it

RIP David Ray. Camaro Heaven
 
UOP said:
I'm running a 125 shot (55n/47f) on mine right now and have put about a dozen passes or so on it. I'm at 8 degrees of timing pulled to wind up at 26 total. I thought I was being very safe pulling that much and was surpirsed to see it was about right after reading the plugs.
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UOP,how is the response off the bottle,pulled back that much?....
 
I'm putting a 4 stage digger on my motor and the gentleman that is helping me when I asked him said the following

For every 50 increase in nos pull out 2 degrees

Don't activate under 3500 rpm

If running multi stage then for the first stage of nos for every 50 hp of nos in the first stage pull out 50 then every 50 after the first stage pull 1

Anything over 100 shot run race gas for at least the fuel side of the nos system

Use a bottle warmer not a torch pricey yes but safe

No more then 1500 psi in a single bottle

Use as small of a bottle as possible to have maximum punch( don't know why that's wat he said)

That's wat he told me when we were discussing my motor I have never had nitrous before and now I'll have 4 stages lol

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad
 
67 prostreet gt said:
I'm putting a 4 stage digger on my motor and the gentleman that is helping me when I asked him said the following

For every 50 increase in nos pull out 2 degrees

Don't activate under 3500 rpm

If running multi stage then for the first stage of nos for every 50 hp of nos in the first stage pull out 50 then every 50 after the first stage pull 1

Anything over 100 shot run race gas for at least the fuel side of the nos system

Use a bottle warmer not a torch pricey yes but safe

No more then 1500 psi in a single bottle

Use as small of a bottle as possible to have maximum punch( don't know why that's wat he said)

That's wat he told me when we were discussing my motor I have never had nitrous before and now I'll have 4 stages lol

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad
Click to expand...
.

I am no expert, but this seems all wrong to me. Other than the tip about not activating below 3500 and the bottle warmer, it pretty much goes against just about everything I've learned about nitrous.
 
I've used a Compu Car hat system & built my own system using a Vortex Billet throttle body spacer The hat on a 01' R/T Dak & the Bob built on a 98' SS/T

The Magnum itself will hold 150 when metered correctly with stock hard parts Finding that happy go lucky medium with a factory EFI system takes patience

Most have an over rich condition starting out due to air temp change in the keg when the spray is hit
 
back from the dead. looks like he hasn't been here since 2016. my bad
 
Now I know a 318 and a 360 are different and Ive always known the 318 to be “bulletproof” but it should give an idea of how the magnum’s stock pistons, rods, and crank are... I got a buddy that had gotten a Dakota chassis and he put a magnum 318 in with over 100k on it and it was all factory except for an rt-10 cam, headers and m1 intake and he sprayed a 150 shot MANY times, and went up to a 200 a few times, he even mentioned one time that somehow during a jet change he got the fuel and n2o jets mixed up and didn’t kill it... that engine has been in a couple different trucks since he sold the Dakota, one was a ram he’d used for about 2 years as a daily and another Dakota which the engine was still running when he sold the Dakota...
 
DodgeAddict said:
I've used a Compu Car hat system & built my own system using a Vortex Billet throttle body spacer The hat on a 01' R/T Dak & the Bob built on a 98' SS/T

The Magnum itself will hold 150 when metered correctly with stock hard parts Finding that happy go lucky medium with a factory EFI system takes patience

Most have an over rich condition starting out due to air temp change in the keg when the spray is hit
Click to expand...
Speaking of the Keg intake and nitrous, I’ve heard of the plenum pans blowing off with nitrous backfires before...
 
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