Hydraulic clutch and slave cylinder info.

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7duce swinger

7duce swinger

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When going the hydraulic clutch route, whats the easiest to use. The push slave, or the pull type? Ive also seen where the fork is eliminated and something else is used? I think hydraulic to bearing? How does that work exactly. Does anyone here run a pull slave or push type or a hydraulic to bearing? I think im leaning towards the pull type since my headers are kinda in the way. Whats the best type to use, and which are the cheapest and most reliable to get? Ive got a ton of questions roaming around in my head, and need some help lol. Thanks in advance.
 
Also if anyone has pictures or could direct me to a link, i would like to know where the pull slave has been mounted if they used one, or what they used if they went the other routes. thanks fabo!
 


Lots of info here. I'm going pull slave after alot of research.

Anyone running a hydraulic clutch with their 833? (
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Thanks for the link, rapom, so you bought your stuff from speed way? What was the price for everything you used? What part numbers are they so i know what slave to get or will they work the same?
 
Is there any pros n cons to a hydraulic throwout bearing? Im doing tons of research all over different sites, and im reading many different things. What would be the cheapest hydraulic throwout bearing? What clutch is everyone using? Can a stock clutch and flexplate be used, like say from a truck? Too many questions running around lol thanks for any feedback.
 
Purchased Speedway pull slave cylinder and a US Brake clutch master, both 3/4" bore. The US Brake kit was a close out, about $46 IRC, the slave was $34 ish. Pros on hydraulic TO bearing is deletion of linkage/clutch arm and ease of installation. Cons... if it leaks or fails you've got to drop the tranny and maybe the bell housing to get to it. The Centerforce II seems to be very popular with folks here on FABO (what I have plus a billet flywheel and Lakewood scatter shield for abusive driving). I'm working on front suspension and K member mods at the moment and when finished will be starting the hyd clutch conversion so I can't give you any real world info on the results yet.
 

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Thanks again rapom65, on part of you buying the 3/4" bore, is there a pros n cons to going with a 5/8" bore or 7/8" bore for that matter? whats the big deal with some saying not to go with the 5/8" bore cylinder? Does it not have enough pressure to puch or pull?
 
Don't have a clue on the 5/8" bore but if I had to guess it probably doesn't push enough fluid to move a slave enough to get the throw needed on a clutch arm or fully actuate a TO bearing. I've read guys have had luck with using the 3/4" and 7/8". The important thing is match bore sizes and make sure the master moves enough fluid to fully actuate the slave. Be sure to check the master doesn't over actuate the slave or you'll blow the seals out of it. You may have to fab an adjustable stop on the clutch pedal so that you don't over extend the slave. I have done a ton of research and bought the parts but still have to build my system. I might get lucky and it will actually work!
 
Well i already have a few 5/8" master, and slave set's. I have a few of the 7/8 master and slaves. And i have acces to my dads jeep and toyota truck lol. The 72' landcruiser has a push slave set up, and i was thinking of trying that set up first, then trying all the other sets to see how they work out. I dont know the bore size of the master on the fj40 but it still works and im probably going to use that set up, since ill be taking the pedal off too. I also have a 5/8"master off a 91 toyota pick up truck, which is why i ask of the pros and cons of the 5/8" size, since i have so many. Ive read a few threads other places where people have successfully used, nissan parts, along with other make parts, but dont know how well they work, or if theyre still working lol. Anyways thanks for the info rapom, oh by the way, did you mount your pullslave on the frame with sometype of bracket? Ive read some mount it on the tranny somehow, and some the other way? Sorry for the rant, but thanks for all the help!!
 
My plan for the pull slave is to build a simple C channel mount off the front of the trans cross member using the two trans mount bolts on the drivers side. See pic.

This may have to be adjusted or another mounting system devised if my slave is shorter than the one pictured. The trans mounted slave setup is from "Chucks". See no real advantage to mounting it this way other than it is a done deal and you don't have to build your own set up. Seeing that you have a lot of components to experiment with I would use what you have available.
 

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Well thanks for the info, can you give me a list of everything i need i know the master i need along with the slave of proper sizing for the master. Pedal, whats part of the clutch mechanism?? I know theres the clutch, flywheel, what else, i dont know to much about the parts of a manual transmission, so i would like sort of like a list lol.... I would like to know every part that i need. Bearing retainer? Throwout bearing? Maybe some part numbers if you can?? Sorry for so much questions, i just want to get it right the first time, and not be running around for something i missed while im doing the swap. Thanks
 
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