I hate headers!!!!!!!!

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Headers are like sex. If you aint happy, find a new partner.
 
Who ever said the lazy word I have to disagree :coffee2: I know it is a frustrating job...
I remember my first set :banghead: the suspension even had to be taken apart to put them in (73 Challenger) Hang in there young gun, and look at removing the Master Cylinder and booster, or disconnect your steering column at the steering box, and look at your suspension and disconnect what you have to.. remember the brake lines also, Do you have a good floor jack and hope you are on a concrete slab.......... I was 19 before and with an open mind you can get this dun Alex White :coffee2: Myself I would have to remove the MC because I don't have a large floor jack and or a slab of concrete to lift the body off the K frame and maneuver it out on my own.

Just some positive thoughts to motivate you today, :cheers: Lazy!! I think not.
 
bad440 said:
slow down ***** harder to work on when your pissed off...
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Yep...

Supershafts said:
All i see is metal cuttings that went into the cylinders...............

This is when you step back and let someone else do it...

This isn't for everyone, but putting cuttings down the cylinders surely wasn't worth the time saved in frustrated mechanical butchery


Would have been a great episode for those car shows. ..

.
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Guessing there will be a thread down the road some time going something along the lines my motor is smoking like an old diesel and has no power......
 
mbaird said:
unbolt the K-frame and suspension and lift the body off . revers of what the factory did.
You will have to pull the column to.
It sounds like more work but its not in the long run.
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dont pull the collumn ,pull the coupling apart.
 
You could hook a shop vac to the tail pipe while cutting and suck the metal dust and shavings away from the heads.
 
If you were dropping the k frame anyway, why bother even removing engine tranny first. Wouldn't have to have cut those headers either.
 
I agree with the shorty approach! Early A's are really restricted unless you want to chop holes in your car and go with fender well headers. I bought a set of Sanderson Blockhuggers. A couple washers under the motor mounts and a minor mod to the steering shaft. Power steering is still an issue for these though.
 
1970Duster said:
If you were dropping the k frame anyway, why bother even removing engine tranny first. Wouldn't have to have cut those headers either.
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Exactly. The cars are designed to come apart from the bottom. Yet, no matter how much you preach it, people still do it the hard way. The mentality escapes me.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Exactly. The cars are designed to come apart from the bottom. Yet, no matter how much you preach it, people still do it the hard way. The mentality escapes me.
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Some people don't have the capability of doing it that way or don't want to screw around with the alignment afterward.

I can have an engine and trans on the ground by myself in about 1.5 Hours the old fashioned way! This is usually on the second pull though cause on the first everything is all screwed up. Rusted this and that, stripped this or that, trans lines that wont come loose. It is always something on the first pull. After I have been in there once and fixed all the hiccup BS it can be done pretty darn quick.
 
Usually though, the excuse I hear is "I caint get the car up high enough"! If you gotta engine hoist you can get the car up. But I do agree Louis, alignment is one issue where someone might not want to do it that way. Even still, you can mark the excentic bolts and get it back real close.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Usually though, the excuse I hear is "I caint get the car up high enough"! If you gotta engine hoist you can get the car up. But I do agree Louis, alignment is one issue where someone might not want to do it that way. Even still, you can mark the excentic bolts and get it back real close.
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True that on the engine hoist and marking the eccentric bolts. You would also need a good dolly or 2 so you can wheel the engine trans out from under the car. I think if I did it that way the whole front end would get rebuilt at the same time whether it needed it or not because access is so easy to all the parts and they are inexpensive too.

I will be doing it like that on my 67 TT Dart when that engine trans goes in it, I bought the dolly's a while back ago just for that specific task!
 
daredevil said:
dont pull the collumn ,pull the coupling apart.
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Not following you Pete. What does taking the coupling apart gain you? I always pull the entire column (takes me about 10 minutes) which frees up a good bit of room. Also makes it quite a bit easier to get into the back header bolt on the drivers side.
 
Undo both motor mounts, remove the centerlink and starter. Then jack the motor up till the trans hits the floor. Both headers come out the bottom like hot butter. Oh and remove the oil filter. Done it a million times in the driveway. Takes about 1 hour to get those babies out!
 
I put my headers on my 318 the way the directions said. Later when pulling my 318 I did it the old man way out the top with the transmission unbolting the headers leaving them in the engine bay, which didn't end up working and 1/2 way out I had to fight the headers again anyway. When putting the 360 back in I did it the from the bottom way with the headers on and the whole thing on the complete front suspension setup. By far the from the bottom was the easiest. It was faster and easier to do the whole motor/suspension setup then it was to just put in the headers by them self. Nothing but in and out from the bottom for me... Ok that sounds bad, but don't knok it till you try it! LOL!
 
turbodart68 said:
Undo both motor mounts, remove the centerlink and starter. Then jack the motor up till the trans hits the floor. Both headers come out the bottom like hot butter. Oh and remove the oil filter. Done it a million times in the driveway. Takes about 1 hour to get those babies out!
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Your Hired!! :D
 
turbodart68 said:
Undo both motor mounts, remove the centerlink and starter. Then jack the motor up till the trans hits the floor. Both headers come out the bottom like hot butter. Oh and remove the oil filter. Done it a million times in the driveway. Takes about 1 hour to get those babies out!
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You gonna be in Illinois any time soon? If so I'll put you to work taking mine off, LOL
 
I just installed the engine in the Scamp a few days ago. TTI Headers with a Mini Starter. Since the engine and trans were out of the car the headers were laid in the bay and tied up with some electrical wire. I did not disconnect any steering linkage and could barely get the starter in after the motor and trans were set in place. I turned the wheels all the way to one side and ended up having to take apart the electrical connections @ the starter body to squeeze the starter in there. I was just about to pop off the center link but got it in there! Next time I install an engine and transmission together I will bolt the starter in before I drop the motor/trans in the car....... Live and learn.
 
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