mopar subframe connectors

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o1heavy

o1heavy

1974 dart sport
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has anyone used the mopar subframe connectors (p# P4286868)
wondering if i will need to cut the floor pan to install
already ordered them so i guess it don't matter just wondering
thanks


dcc-4286868.jpg
 
how much are those and where from did you get them. i'm looking into getting some. was thinking about cutting so my self to save money but idk yet
 
Those look very nice. Congrats.

I recall seeing a thread from a FABO member that was making & selling some nice pieces. Not sure if he still does it. Will have to search for it tonight as I amplanning on picking some up too.
 
Contact seymour_scamp. He made mine and does a great job. The shop that welded mine in was very impressed with his craftsmanship. Cost around $115.00 shipped to your door.
 
Got mine from Mancini also. Went right in and just welded them in there.
After I got it all together. I primed them, then used some spray on bed
liner. Worked out great and still looks great.
 
I bought these subframes and installed them. I bolted them in place and then welded them where they sat. They look great and I don't think the frame will be twisting anytime soon.

On the same note, does anybody know how those two plates would be used (the two small plates that each have two bolts holes through them)? I bought the same set of Mopar subframes and installed them. It appears as if those would be used on the opposite side of the torsion bar mount, but the front subframe is in the way. Anybody have any thoughts on these? Perhaps spacers between the torsion bar mount and the front of the subframe, should it come up short? Thanks.

-Mike
 
These Mancini bars (Mopar part) are handed, when installed the flat bar with two holes is located on front side of cross member to spread stresses. There is ample room to access front side of cross member to drill & insert bolts.
 
I considered all of those styles when wanting to do connectors.
I bought 2 sections of 2x3 box tubing with .085 wall, and since the rear subframe ends that one would connect to are 2 3/4 inches wide, the three inch wide side can be cut out about 6 inches up the tubing, folded down inside the tube and welded back in.
This seals the tube from getting moisture inside it, as well as strenghtening the channel from twist at that weld point.
Then that end slides right over the original subframe metal and will be welded there.
They are however a little heavier material than normal aftermarket connectors.

It sticks down about 1/2 inch further than the original metal on the rear subframe and is solid up againts the floorboard metal and flush with the bottom of the torsion member.

They are built but not in yet, since every time I go to do anything with them my brother stops working on a job that he REALLY needs to get paid for and starts working on the car with me.
I'll just wait till it won't interfere with his work, and then put them in.
 
Mopar A body site. 22,000 plus members. SUbframe connectors that have been out 30 plus years. No, I bet nobody here has ever installed any of them.
 
I wasn't asking how or anything,
Or are you saying that it's been hashed over a ton already?
Sorry man, just didn't get what you meant.:wack:



StrokerScamp said:
Mopar A body site. 22,000 plus members. SUbframe connectors that have been out 30 plus years. No, I bet nobody here has ever installed any of them.
Click to expand...
 
Mine were about 60 for the steel itself.
I'm sure do to the .085 wall and the little extras of the REM pile.
 
After I put on frame connectors my car wasn't as unpredictable when i got on it. I had to have the frame straighten when I first launched it with the new engine that has a little over 500 pounds of torque. Now it launches a lot straighter and a big improvement in ride.
 
I have pretty much just putt putt power compared to that, but could still feel it in body flex and interior noises here and there.

GT340 said:
After I put on frame connectors my car wasn't as unpredictable when i got on it. I had to have the frame straighten when I first launched it with the new engine that has a little over 500 pounds of torque. Now it launches a lot straighter and a big improvement in ride.
Click to expand...
 
TrailBeast said:
I have pretty much just putt putt power compared to that, but could still feel it in body flex and interior noises here and there.
Click to expand...

It will greatly improve body flex and noise. When I enter the street from a driveway it feels firm and I don't get the noise like it used to when the body flexed. It seems to respond better when turning and avoiding pot holes. I feel it is money well spent.
 
That's what I was hoping for.

GT340 said:
It will greatly improve body flex and noise. When I enter the street from a driveway it feels firm and I don't get the noise like it used to when the body flexed. It seems to respond better when turning and avoiding pot holes. I feel it is money well spent.
Click to expand...
 
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