My new daily driver. 1984 dodge rampage

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skep419

skep419

5.9 Magnum 4 speed afficionado
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Need some help on what I can ditch under the hood. Looks like a ton of emissions garbage.
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Ditch the carb and all the vacuum lines, buy a weber 32/36. The only vac line you'll need to keep is for your spark advance canister on top of the ecu behind the battery.
 
That's the spark advance canister! That one needs to stay!

Also, I'd get rid of the smog pump junk as well! It's driven off the back of the cam shaft. All you need to do is to pull the pump, yank the pulley, and block off the line coming from the cat.
 
You'd need the 32/26 DFEV, not the DGEV. The DGEV is reverse rotation on the throttle arm. You could make it work, but the DFEV is easier.

And there are other OEM carbs that are the same bolt pattern, pintos, caravans, etc., but they are getting hard to find, will definitely need a rebuild, and most of time were emission carbs too. It's gonna be way simpler to just buy a new carb.
 
That looks to be in nice shape! What about dropping in a later model engine, maybe from an SRT Neon of some such?
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Baby number 3 on the way. The girlfriend is going to be staying home with the kids. Daycare costs aren't worth her working.

Selling out 2012 impala to buy a moderately craptasting Chrysler town and country. 2005-2007 with stow and go.

The left over cash will hopefully pay off all our credit card debt.

The cheaper insurance and the fact that this gem has collector plates should help with registration costs.

So negative to the modern engine swap. But hoping it will get me to and from work daily (50 mile round trip)
 
Thanks for all the help so far. I'll be posting some more pics of the weight savings.
 
If it runs, leave it alone and drive it.
The 2.2l will knock, they all did. Wrist pins. But it won't be a problem, just an annoyance.
Go thru the battery cables, you'll likely need to replace both. They're probably green with rot.
Keep a map sensor handy, and check the potting in the ECU/PCM. Seen a lot of them get cracks in the potting and allow water to short the electronics. You'll know if the potting is bad if you're driving on a rainy day and the car just shuts down on you.
I'd love to have another one of those things. I miss those 2.2L engines.
 
vntned said:
You'd need the 32/26 DFEV, not the DGEV. The DGEV is reverse rotation on the throttle arm. You could make it work, but the DFEV is easier.

And there are other OEM carbs that are the same bolt pattern, pintos, caravans, etc., but they are getting hard to find, will definitely need a rebuild, and most of time were emission carbs too. It's gonna be way simpler to just buy a new carb.
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http://m.ebay.com/itm/Weber-32-36-D...%3Aa6a4a1fc1570a78873e4d72dfffde6c8%7Ciid%3A6

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gunbunny said:
If it runs, leave it alone and drive it.
The 2.2l will knock, they all did. Wrist pins. But it won't be a problem, just an annoyance.
Go thru the battery cables, you'll likely need to replace both. They're probably green with rot.
Keep a map sensor handy, and check the potting in the ECU/PCM. Seen a lot of them get cracks in the potting and allow water to short the electronics. You'll know if the potting is bad if you're driving on a rainy day and the car just shuts down on you.
I'd love to have another one of those things. I miss those 2.2L engines.
Click to expand...

I'm going to be driving this thing in mn winters. -20 degree days. If it costs $300 bucks for a better designed carb that gets me home I'll chalk one up for cheap insurance.
 
No clue what these are next to the coil. Hoses are junk.
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More unknowns. Part next to voltage regulator. No vacuum hose connected.
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check the fuel tank for leaks
mine developed pin holes after many years as a daily driver
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also the unibody started splitting, right behind the cab.
I guess from using it as a full size truck
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I like the truck, so fixed it by putting a real frame in it and adding 4 more cylinders....lol

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I know where there's a 89 turbo II engine sitting in a garage with 75 k on it....
 
Those 2.2's are tough. I beat on several of them. 2 things I'd do before winter are the head gasket (new bolts too) and timing belt. Both are very simple to do, low cost and great insurance. It will run a long, long time.
 
Timing belt was reaplace a couple hundred miles ago. Head gasket has never been replaced though.
 
I had a '84 reliant 2.2 carbureted and automatic. I put carb off of a 318 2bbl. and got it to run 17.70's at around 79 mph. :D
Head gasket --You can just lift the head up about 3 inches and wipe the block/head down, slip the new one in and torque it down with new bolts.
I also played a few turbo 2.2's.... Man are they quick for what they are.....
 
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