New carb finally arrived, with pic

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Hysteric said:
Jets don't work that way. They need to be flowed to verify there flow rates. Its not just about opening size its also length of the jet and entry angles that affect flow rates.
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While that statement is true to some extent, I stand by my original post. Pinning jets is much easier versus buying/ building a wet flow bench to flow each jet. Besides that, the actual fuel flow will vary through the jets when conditions change such as the weather/barometric pressure, float level, or air bleeds are changed. High end carbs use pinned jets and the jets are placed in very different spots and angles on the metering blocks. Fuel flow through the jets is dictated by barometric pressure, the fuels specific gravity/viscosity, the engines demand, air bleeds and the fuel level in the bowels which in effect is adding or subtracting weight/pressure on the jets affecting the flow/ fuel curve. That's why air bleeds and float level changes are more effective and easier than jet changes once the best jet size is found/determined for that combination. The guys that really, really know and have a grasp on it usually don't talk about it. Comp eliminator guys and pro-stock guys that were around when they ran carbs in that class understand that controlling the fuel curve leads to making more usable power. When changing jet sizing really comes into play is with tunnel rams and poorly designed heads/intakes using staggered jetting to balance the power curve for each cylinder.
 
B3422w5 said:
Tell ya bud. It’s VERY hard. I don’t get around well anymore. So losing this weight has been 90% cutting back on what I eat, the other 10% getting on my schwinn airdyne at night and in the morning.
Recently it’s gotten harder and harder to get more off than it was initially.
Next step is to drink WAY more water than I have been, see if that helps some.
I started new years at 340 pounds. Couple days ago I was 312.2.
Really ultimate goal is 285. Seems like still a ton of weight, but I am 6’5.
Already wearing stuff I haven’t in years.

And yes, wife is understanding. She has seen me give up probably 5 or 6 times before after a month or so.
This is the first time I have ever stuck with it….gave me some wiggle room..lol
That and my racing days are numbered.
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Congratulations
 
Hysteric said:
Now there's an oxymoron. What do they do that makes them high end?
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Custom metering blocks, float bowls, boosters, custom everything basically. Book, Braswell, Dambest all have very custom, patented designs exclusively to their carbs. Not the $6-800 off the shelf bought at Summit Holley carb.
 
pink340swinger said:
Custom metering blocks, float bowls, boosters, custom everything basically. Book, Braswell, Dambest all have very custom, patented designs exclusively to their carbs. Not the $6-800 off the shelf bought at Summit Holley carb.
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So still the same old turbulent flow Emulsion design?
 
Got new carb on and sorted out. Went for drive, has a light miss at cruise rpm, runs good wide open
Added power valve in front, took out plug. Used 6/5, and 78 jets in front.
Gonna try 80’s and try a quick cruise again and see how it acts at cruise rpm.
Not sure if 4/5 power valve would be closer.. Didn’t have a vacuum gauge handy.
Try one thing at a time, front jetting first.
Old carb did I think have a 4/5 in it, have to check that tomorrow.
 
When choosing your power valve, remember, the higher the number, the earlier / quicker it will open. Also, it does not add fuel when the engine is idling - that is a wives tail. My ATM's both have 10.5 PV in them because my cruise vacuum was in the 12in-hg range. They had a 6in-hg one in them originally, and i had a bad lean spot when transitioning from cruise to a little acceleration. Basically, the 6in-hg PV were taking too long to open because my cruise vac was @ 12 in-hg. You want the enrichment to come in a couple in-hg under what your cruise vac is. Also, the valve is not a switch that is open or closed. It is spring loaded, so there is some open time before the rated number.

Just my 2cents!
 
Vertex_Jeff said:
When choosing your power valve, remember, the higher the number, the earlier / quicker it will open. Also, it does not add fuel when the engine is idling - that is a wives tail. My ATM's both have 10.5 PV in them because my cruise vacuum was in the 12in-hg range. They had a 6in-hg one in them originally, and i had a bad lean spot when transitioning from cruise to a little acceleration. Basically, the 6in-hg PV were taking too long to open because my cruise vac was @ 12 in-hg. You want the enrichment to come in a couple in-hg under what your cruise vac is. Also, the valve is not a switch that is open or closed. It is spring loaded, so there is some open time before the rated number.

Just my 2cents!
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Thanks for all that.
 
Car was unhappy in cruise after initially trying it out on the street.
Made some changes to it yesterday here at work, tryed it out yesterday evening on the street again.
Happy to report I have it happy everywhere! Idle, cruise and WOT. Seems to work very good, now we see how consistent it is at the track this weekend.
Ended up with a 4/5 power valve in the primary with 80 jets and 86’s in the back. Idle liked just a bit past 1.5 turns out on the mixture screws.
I am a far from scientific tuner, but think it’s mighty close.
 
Just gotta tidy things up a bit.

IMG_0036.jpeg
 
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