Oil zddp ?

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I'm guessing synthetic since he said after break in. I can't imagine there are many guys running dino oil after break in.
 
Actually I know a guy who only runs dino oil because he says synthetic oil is water based and will rust the inside of your engine.
 
mopowers said:
From my understanding, VR-1 is dino oil, there seems to be plenty of folks running the old stuff.
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VR-1 comes in both flavors.
Porscheheads told me synthetic would make my '86 911 start leaking like a sieve - 5 years later w/o losing a drop..
 
Dont they run dino, because the engine wears in better for the first few oil changes before switching to synthetic? The manufacturers claim almost no wear with the synthetic, so dont you want your parts to wear slightly for the first thousand miles or so? Not looking to rile anyone up, just read that years ago from a builder, and it does seem to have some validity.
 
fratzog lover said:
Dont they run dino, because the engine wears in better for the first few oil changes before switching to synthetic? The manufacturers claim almost no wear with the synthetic, so dont you want your parts to wear slightly for the first thousand miles or so? Not looking to rile anyone up, just read that years ago from a builder, and it does seem to have some validity.
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I'm going to run the break in oil for two heat cycles. I already broke the cam in. I just need to put heat load on the engine. Twice. Then I'm going to drop a load of Torco 5w30 in it and I should be good to drive it in weather from just about 5* F to 110* in the summer.


Edit: I'm saving the break in oil for the next engine. No way am I throwing it away.
 
yellow rose said:
There are plenty who run Dino oil after break in. I have no idea why. But they do.
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my question is how long do you need to run a new rebuild before using synthetic oil like dyno time or 1000 miles 1500 miles ? thanks. or am I what they call hijacking ?
 
^^^ Nothing at all. Nothing to get 300k miles on it in everyday drivers. Many folks running 10's off of it using just a zinc additive and never having a issue in years.
 
mopowers said:
What the hell is wrong with conventional oil anyway?
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Nothing. It's all I use. And not because of stupid myths. I use it because of the cost difference. I can get Lucas Hot Rod oil through work, and it's still cheaper than any of the synthetics, plus it has 2400 PPM of zinc. If I'm gonna dump it out after 3000-7500 miles, I don't see the need for the added expense.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Nothing. It's all I use. And not because of stupid myths. I use it because of the cost difference. I can get Lucas Hot Rod oil through work, and it's still cheaper than any of the synthetics, plus it has 2400 PPM of zinc. If I'm gonna dump it out after 3000-7500 miles, I don't see the need for the added expense.
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Same here, and always have even with stockish hydraulic flat tappet valve trains.
Castrol GTX 10/40 or 20/50 in my magnum, Wife's 318 Dart, the BMW325, Daughters Avenger all of our motorcycles, and even the lawn mower.:D
Never had a lubrication failure in anything I have run it in, and you can get it for 17 and change for a 5 quart jug.
 
jimjimjimmy said:
my question is how long do you need to run a new rebuild before using synthetic oil like dyno time or 1000 miles 1500 miles ? thanks. or am I what they call hijacking ?
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If your rings ain't seated when the engine temp hits 140 the first time, some one screwed up the hone. So, I'm going to change mine out in less than 50 miles. I could do it now, with just run in stand time, but m going to put two good heat cycles into it then synthetic. I change the oil every 5000 miles. Cost is about $160.00 which is cheap. Hell, I may let it go 6k.
 
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