ok need help to decide

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hamesdart

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ok so i need help deciding...
going to pull the motor and paint everything and put some new parts on.
Rite now i have the following to go onto the car.
440 source alum heads,holley street dominator intake,pinion snubber,and subframe connectors. and 4.11 gears
rite now runs about 12.80 but only made 3 passes so far 1 race and never did any tuning. Guy i bought it from said it ran 12's.
Now im trying to get into low 11's or high high 10's :-D
The thing i was deciding was this.
Cam change from the hydrolic 509 lift cam to
comp cams 520-540 lift solid cam....
problem is that that also meens adjustable rockers...and if i dont have valve to piston clearence i also need pistons...rings..seals..bearings..rods..converter and all. So is the $700-$3000 dollers really worth the gain from the cam change?


Current build
1969 dodge dart
-ENGINE
1968 440 hp
10-1 comp
stock 906 heads w/mopar performance springs
509 lift cam
holley 750
holley elect fuel pump
torker 2 intake
msd 6a ignition
msd billit distributer
ss blaster coil
high volume oil pan/pump
-TRANS
727
reverse manuel valve body
3000 stall
-REAREND
8-3/4
3.91 w/suregrip

SUSPENSION
super stock springs
koni adjustable shocks in rear
comp 90-10 adjustables up front
 
Before I'd change the cam I'd install either a Victor or MP M1 intake with at least an 850-950DP'r (hell I'm using a 750 on a built 383). Those edelbrock heads will want to flow more air and fuel so make sure it can happen. Are you using big tube headers and 3 inch exhaust pipe all the way out. I'd also invest in a set of Hughes roller rockers and their shafts even with the hydraulic set up ya got now. Your valve lift will be more accurate over the stamped steel rockers, if that's what you're using now, and if you change cams you're allready set. You will have to make a custom a set of ball and socket push rods though but that's no big deal.

Terry
 
yah im just debating whenther anoth cost and time was going to really be worth it seeing how i dont have the money for any changes so overall i will miss a few more races and spend more money. Although i would really like to get a bigger cam and roller rockers....pistons..... full rebuild and all but i just dont know if 10-20 lift is work all that around 35 hp or so.
 
Its normally a huge chunk of change to get from the 12s to the 10s.

That and the up-keep needed for a 10 second engine is not the same.

If you are low on cash, live with 12s and have fun.
 

yah i think 10's is out of reach without some serious work.
although 11's would be nice....
i have seen cars with less worth then this go into 11's
I told my buddy that i was going to just go with the head install and other mods and no cam swap and he keeps telling me do a re-bearing on it but even then were getting into the same thing... everything ripped apart and then mine as well do it all.... exspecially since it runs great and dont know if the bearings need it at all.....
i think i mite just do the head swap and see where it puts mee
 
I don't know where you are now but tuning and some chassis setup could get you closer to your goal... Unless you already have done all of that.


Other guys here are good with that kind of stuff.
 
yah no i personally owning the car have made 3 passes so far no tuning...
And suspension set up i am adding the following
subframe connectors and pinion snubber and 411 gears
and 440 source alum heads and better intake and fiberglass fenders....
I have only made 3 passes and it was the first time i have ever raced at all haha, so i think with some better shifting and tuning alone mite help alot.
i didnt have a working tach either so i didnt know were i was shifting at.
 
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