Painters booth question
- Thread starter cawley
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bighammer
Well-Known Member
I'm not a painter but I'm going to go out on a limb with the first response, but it's a guess... I'm thinking infra-red type heat. Something without a fan
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
any type of heat will work. non flame is best. infra red works ok but will only heat up the object that it's pointed to. radiant IR works slightly better. all flame types work also but they have to be OUT when painting starts. (I turn off IR also)
When I was up in Michigan and painting cars in the winter it was harder to paint than in the summer because of:
1. I had to pre- heat the garage and car up to 70 or so and make sure the car got there too! cold metal doesn't hold paint well.
2. heat went off BEFORE the paint went on. (no flames or heat source for fires)
3. fast evacuation of air/fumes to help save heat in the garage and keep car warm during that critical time for cross-linking to happen.
4. heat came back on only after the air was clear and not a minute earlier. yeah I have been in a room when it went up like a rocket and it ain't funny. I woke up outside my friends garage(I had just come in to check on hime and was standing by the big garage door inside) when he turned the heat on right after spraying the car. he had severe 2nd degree burns over all exposed parts of his body and melted coveralls right into his arms and neck. The complete 2/3rd of back of the garage was blown out.
5. leave heat on for the paint to cure , however long that takes.
I am sure there were other things I did, but it has been 14 years since I did my last snowy winter paint job. Now I'm in Florida and my winter painting consists of chasing the damned palmetto bugs out of the garage long enough to paint.
send me gas money, and I will winter down there with ya and help paint ya car!! ?? LOL
I guess the summer love bugs are a pain too?? mosquitoes? snakes? gators? tourists? fl redneck natives? lime sinks? hurricanes?? LOL
the good part is it won't take much to heat your garage on an average winter day!!!!
I guess the summer love bugs are a pain too?? mosquitoes? snakes? gators? tourists? fl redneck natives? lime sinks? hurricanes?? LOL
the good part is it won't take much to heat your garage on an average winter day!!!!
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
If I had it(money ) I would
, summer the love bugs hit twice a year. mosquito's are a ***** all year. I have (3) 1 acre bug zappers going constantly due to the next door neighbor letting his pond go stagnant even though I do offer help when he is outside.. (ahhh he's old (93 or so) so I can understand he can't clear it up) got gators going to the old rock quarry 2 roads over. snakes, every once in a while I see corn snakes and in the last year even found a coral snake , that scared the heck out of me. Ahh the redneck natives don't bother me one bit. heck they are nicer that some of my Kentucky cousins for sure:glasses7: the worst pains are the snowbirds going to auctions and flea markets(oh and driving on US-19 that is a kill zone then). they are good for the places but if you need something your going to have to pay through the nose for it then.
yup winter is good to me down here. heating the garage is easy. it's covered by trees almost completely shading it during the summer so it never gets too crazy hot, I'm just now hooking up the old A/c-heat pump that came from my house and will use that for heat(sparingly) after I finally get done insulating the 40'x41' garage. it'll take a while since I can only get 1 or 2 pieces of foam board insulation a month, darn thing is 60% bigger than my house and it's STILL too small.
I was raised in s w Ga. my cousins were the mean ones on "Deliverence"?????
I don't miss the skeeters! but Missouri sucks in the winter. not near as bad as the people north and east have it though!!!! next winter I WILL have an addition to car shed, 4 walls (roof too), and a barrel stove!!!!!LOL
yes and be careful, paints, solvients.. bad flammable!!!! just use your head...
I don't miss the skeeters! but Missouri sucks in the winter. not near as bad as the people north and east have it though!!!! next winter I WILL have an addition to car shed, 4 walls (roof too), and a barrel stove!!!!!LOL
yes and be careful, paints, solvients.. bad flammable!!!! just use your head...
gtmopar
Phuckin A!
I usually turned the booth heater on to roughly 80 degrees before I shot and would bake the car overnight. UV curing is nice but not every booth has that luxury. Yea be careful with the fumes they can get ugly.
Yea I made the mistake of putting in a 220 heater in my booth. It works very well but **** it doubled my electric bill. Well I got my uncles AAR cuda done. Gotta do something different before the next one. Back to the drawing board. Thanks for the input guys
well... "back in the old days" with lacquer and enamel paint, there were three levels of thinner you could buy, fast, medium or slow based upon the temp in the garage. back then, i actually painted cars at around 55% using extra-fast drying thinner. however, all that paint is gone now and everything is water based.. which requires a lot of heat and a lot of air movement.
when i painted my barracuda last winter (in pittsburgh) with lacquer, i bought 4 electric "oil filled" floor heaters and turned all of them on high for about an hour before i painted the car. then right before i started spraying, i unplugged all of the heaters so there would be no ignition spark while i was spraying. electric "oil filled" heaters will stay warm for about 15 minutes and they cannot ignite anything if they are unplugged. i have a 2 1/2 car garage and these heaters kept the garage between 65-70 while i was spraying. i also put a large window fan outside of the garage to pull the fumes out of the garage while spraying. and of course, did the old fashioned "back yard mecanic" practice of watering down the floor before spraying.
if you are a computer geek, do some research on google on "ignition" of gases and fumes. the basic danger is when the concentration of flamable gas reaches a high "parts per thousand" concentration with the regular air. ignition can occur with either a flame, spark or a "high heat source" once the gas concentration reaches a high amount. obviously, you want to stay away from any open flame heaters. and you want to stay away from any electric device that has a spark or current "arcing" switch or possibility. another option is to use infra-red electric lights, heat up the garage with the car in it for at least an hour and check to see if the temp was between 65-75 degrees. then i'd turn the heat lights off and spray the car.
and, don't forget to wear a hood on your head and a good paint rated respirator. if your not going to wear a full paint jump suit, wear a long sleave shirt and tape up your wrists and ankles, otherwise you are going to have sticky paint on your arms and legs.
one last thing, make sure you check your paint gun to ensure it's tight and leak proof by holding it sideways and upside down BEFORE you begin painting. i always put a couple of layers of electrical tape around the cup and top section where they fit together just to be safe against leaks. another suggestion is to put some rags or something around the tires of the car on the floor so your air hose doesn't get stuck under a tire as you walk around the car. if the car is too high for you and you need a step stool for the top, that's fine - i ran the air hose over my sholder on tall vehicles.
obviously there are lots of painting tips that a person picks up over time. maybe some of the other paint experts here on FABO can share some of their favorites.
hope this helps...
when i painted my barracuda last winter (in pittsburgh) with lacquer, i bought 4 electric "oil filled" floor heaters and turned all of them on high for about an hour before i painted the car. then right before i started spraying, i unplugged all of the heaters so there would be no ignition spark while i was spraying. electric "oil filled" heaters will stay warm for about 15 minutes and they cannot ignite anything if they are unplugged. i have a 2 1/2 car garage and these heaters kept the garage between 65-70 while i was spraying. i also put a large window fan outside of the garage to pull the fumes out of the garage while spraying. and of course, did the old fashioned "back yard mecanic" practice of watering down the floor before spraying.
if you are a computer geek, do some research on google on "ignition" of gases and fumes. the basic danger is when the concentration of flamable gas reaches a high "parts per thousand" concentration with the regular air. ignition can occur with either a flame, spark or a "high heat source" once the gas concentration reaches a high amount. obviously, you want to stay away from any open flame heaters. and you want to stay away from any electric device that has a spark or current "arcing" switch or possibility. another option is to use infra-red electric lights, heat up the garage with the car in it for at least an hour and check to see if the temp was between 65-75 degrees. then i'd turn the heat lights off and spray the car.
and, don't forget to wear a hood on your head and a good paint rated respirator. if your not going to wear a full paint jump suit, wear a long sleave shirt and tape up your wrists and ankles, otherwise you are going to have sticky paint on your arms and legs.
one last thing, make sure you check your paint gun to ensure it's tight and leak proof by holding it sideways and upside down BEFORE you begin painting. i always put a couple of layers of electrical tape around the cup and top section where they fit together just to be safe against leaks. another suggestion is to put some rags or something around the tires of the car on the floor so your air hose doesn't get stuck under a tire as you walk around the car. if the car is too high for you and you need a step stool for the top, that's fine - i ran the air hose over my sholder on tall vehicles.
obviously there are lots of painting tips that a person picks up over time. maybe some of the other paint experts here on FABO can share some of their favorites.
hope this helps...
when I think of paint booth, I think about warm enough in cold weather, lighting, and exhaust method. since what I do ia "malke do" i'll let others tell about their setups!!! large part of what I fight is seeing what i'm doing!!!
Tinbasher
Well-Known Member
Natural gas forced air furnace blowing thru a filter, but located OUTSIDE of the booth
IN the warm shop area. With a window opened enough to supply combustion air and make up air for the booth exhaust. Have done this down to -20f. but wouldn't recommend it except for small parts. Warmer is better.!
IN the warm shop area. With a window opened enough to supply combustion air and make up air for the booth exhaust. Have done this down to -20f. but wouldn't recommend it except for small parts. Warmer is better.!
A38Valiant
Collector Of Rust
I use a 110,000 BTU "torpedo" or "salamander" style heater that burns kerosene or diesel fuel to warm the shop up to about 95, then unplug it, load the gun, and spray. No insulation in my shop, but if the outside temp is 20 or more with no strong wind, shop stays warm enough for an hour or so. Just make damn sure that the fumes from your paint have dispersed well enough before you plug it back in, otherwise it might go boom.
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