PPG dp epoxy primer
- Thread starter mad dog
- Start date
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Try Southern Polyurethanes in Atlanta. They will sell you a qt shipped free. 1:1 makes 2 qts of sprayable material. Better than PPG or at least as good.
Always. anywhere it seems... price wise you can get 1 gal. for the price of 3 qts.
Always. anywhere it seems... price wise you can get 1 gal. for the price of 3 qts.
Call PPG direct and ask them who in your area sells their product.
For what it's worth a quart will cost you 65% of what a gallon cost. I've bought quarts in the past and then ended up needing more.
I would just buy a gallon, you can always use it on something else if you don't need it all, and really be happy should you have needed more than a quart.
At worst you can sell the extra to a friend.
Tom
For what it's worth a quart will cost you 65% of what a gallon cost. I've bought quarts in the past and then ended up needing more.
I would just buy a gallon, you can always use it on something else if you don't need it all, and really be happy should you have needed more than a quart.
At worst you can sell the extra to a friend.
Tom
I have used PPGs epoxy for decades and years ago,,,, and when I changed over to SPI I never looked back. Just me.
I always buy gal. but other day, I bought a qt. of their epoxy primer and activator to do a car trailer, More than plenty and I tell myself I am done building projects!!!!
Otherwise always buy a gal.!
I always buy gal. but other day, I bought a qt. of their epoxy primer and activator to do a car trailer, More than plenty and I tell myself I am done building projects!!!!
Otherwise always buy a gal.!
Im at the end of my project, i still have some SPI epoxy but i think its expired...
I dont want to spend around $500 for a gal of PPG, so i was thinking a quart will do for priming my new engine before paint.
I dont mind spending a little more for the best and i think PPG has the best epoxy, JMHO...Rich
Has anyone used SPI on their engine before ? does it hold up?
I dont want to spend around $500 for a gal of PPG, so i was thinking a quart will do for priming my new engine before paint.
I dont mind spending a little more for the best and i think PPG has the best epoxy, JMHO...Rich
Has anyone used SPI on their engine before ? does it hold up?
Factory used NO primer, just the old acrylic enamel topcoat. It works.
I have never used primer on an engine, ever and I am old.
I have never used primer on an engine, ever and I am old.
Absolutely, all my engines are primed with SPI epoxy. I know some who have used it inside the engine (forgot why). I have never ever had it fail on steel, cast, aluminum...... You can buy a quart kit from them. The only bad thing about SPI epoxy is it damn near impossible to remove. My small home blasting setup will barely scratch it after it has cured a month but it does sand as nice as 2K. There nothing that PPG can do that SPI does not either do as well or better... for 1/3 the price it sounds like. A gallon kit is $300.
barbee... i have had great looking engines useing PPD DP epoxy primer and 2K urethane top coats, but PPG has priced me out of the dp series of epoxy. I mean a quart of primer and catalyst is around $260 bucks!!!!
i might try SPI epoxy on this 340, i will call them today for their recommendation.
i might try SPI epoxy on this 340, i will call them today for their recommendation.
I have used SPI on a lot of cars, and so have a lot of members here on FABO also with great results. They also have the absolute best tech support I might add.
I called in an order last Mon and I believe it arrived here that Wed last week.
Barry (owner/chemist of SPI) recommends white for Orange. The problem is that white (for some reason that has not been understood as it is the same stuff with just a different pigment) can be tricky to shoot and not get it to fish eye if you get it on too heavy on the first coat. I used grey on my red/blue engines. That said that is one caution those who have not used SPI epoxy typically get caught with the fisheye issue if they lay it on too heavy on the first coat (easy to do on something with lots of nooks and crannies like a block). Go easy at first then a good wet coat after that.
thanks jim... my painter likes white under orange also but i think im gonna shoot gray epoxy then orange.
I watch graveyard carz and they use black under the orange.
Jim, how closely do you watch the expiration date on the spi epoxy, i have some opened probably 2 years ago...is it garbage or can i use it?
I watch graveyard carz and they use black under the orange.
Jim, how closely do you watch the expiration date on the spi epoxy, i have some opened probably 2 years ago...is it garbage or can i use it?
The epoxy is fine. Get new activator though.
Also the more correct term would be it gets craters if you lay on the first coat too heavy. They are much larger than a typical fisheye.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I quit using DP primers fifteen years ago because the price was an issue even then. At the time I found a PPG industrial epoxy that worked great and I found that some other builders were using it also. But for the last few years I’ve been using a Diamond Vogal product that I’m happy with. The thing I’ve found is that there are epoxy primers that build and sand like like urethane something DP primer doesn’t and they are at least half the price. I also epoxy prime engine and components before painting .
The initial light coat then 2 good wet coats.
Might look up details about "solvent pop". Just good info to have in your book of things that can go wrong. If shooting outdoors in the sun, a HF temp gun is a good thing to use on a hot day. That metal can get too hot pretty quick if in the sun, and if you do not have proper flash between coats., you can ed up with small little fish eyes crater things, and not always till after some time. Proper temp reducer, shade is good, proper flash time, better to be a little more than too little. But it is a darn engine block! Little things to be aware of if you shoot the car body.
But at least you are not in Tx. when the sun bares down 180 degrees!!!
But at least you are not in Tx. when the sun bares down 180 degrees!!!
Sorry I missed the flash time. I use 30 minutes between coats. Note you must keep it about 65 (per the datasheet but you can typically get away with lower (55 min) if it has had time in sun during the day). UV light is what cures polyurethane way more than heat.
i usually try to shoot primer early in the day before its too hot and i will set up my portable sun canopy so the sun doesnt get the metal too hot... ive had luck with 20 min between coats... im just a hack hobby guy but still get good results....Rich
This is the Primer Surfacer I use for everything.
Thins with high quality lacquer thinner.
Can brush dab it on engine blocks, heads, and intake manifolds.
Use on full body work and paint prep.
125.00 a gal.
65.00 a quart
Evercoat 2274
Gray
Left over thinned primer keeps almost forever in a glass jar with lid, just need to stir it up and go again...
☆☆☆☆☆
Thins with high quality lacquer thinner.
Can brush dab it on engine blocks, heads, and intake manifolds.
Use on full body work and paint prep.
125.00 a gal.
65.00 a quart
Evercoat 2274
Gray
Left over thinned primer keeps almost forever in a glass jar with lid, just need to stir it up and go again...
☆☆☆☆☆
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