Quick tips on stopping the rust on the cheap

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RustyRatRod said:
I like Rustoleum oil based paint. It's cheap and it WORKS. You can get it in the gallon container from Lowes for less than 30 bucks. I would even brush it on. If you do it carefully, it will dry so you will not see the first dang brush stroke. It's tough as hell too, when applied properly. The trick is sealing the metal from the air. If you do that, you can win. You can also spray it on, if you so desire, but IMHO, for a rust preventative, brushing it on coats the metal better and gets into the small pits better.

Opinions vary, but that's mine from personal experience.
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Ditto, I use rustoleum everywhere except where the final paint job will hit. Awesome and cheap.
 
adamm said:
Ditto, I use rustoleum everywhere except where the final paint job will hit. Awesome and cheap.
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I agree totally. Rustoleum has been around for decades. Decades ago they had an "industrial " primer/paint. I had pipe fence around horse pastures, and sed the ind. primer, and on some I used another brand of oil based top coat. It had reaction. Keep this in mind any time you might switch brands. Clan metal is always the key also.
I have used X orust brand oil based enamel and Valspar with good results also.

I used oil based "tractor" ( I call them) enamels on floors. Yes they are togh. If they contained lead like 50-60 years they would be tougher!!!!!
 
Well I tried my best guys some picture of the process below. I’ll wait and see how it drys and looks before moving on to the rest of the engine bay.

I used an angle grinder t get down to the metal. Then used vinegar water with scotch brite pads in order to dissolve the remaining rust. Then I sanded down the metal with 120 grit for paint adhearance. Then I degreaser with purple power using multiple clean rags.l. Then I sprayed with rustoleum light coats I think 5 coats so far. Let me know your thoughts. Did I miss something in the process ?
 
Pics

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Since you are not using real auto paint products, I suggest use a self etch primer like can be had at auto parts store, then come back over it with their brand primer/sealer, then try your rusteolum enamel. Probably will be compatable over the sanding primer/sealer.... You will never get the lasting results you really desire unless you get at lest a small compressor, and cheap HF spray gun, and invest in pro products from the auto paint suppliers. A few hundred $$. No that little compressor is not adequate but yo can get stuff done with it.
There are reasons body shops use their stuff. My 2 cents worth.
 
barbee6043 said:
Since you are not using real auto paint products, I suggest use a self etch primer like can be had at auto parts store, then come back over it with their brand primer/sealer, then try your rusteolum enamel. Probably will be compatable over the sanding primer/sealer.... You will never get the lasting results you really desire unless you get at lest a small compressor, and cheap HF spray gun, and invest in pro products from the auto paint suppliers. A few hundred $$. No that little compressor is not adequate but yo can get stuff done with it.
There are reasons body shops use their stuff. My 2 cents worth.
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Not disagreeing on quality auto paint, but I've also had rustoleum on a tractor that sits outside 24/7 unprotected. Been about 10 years and the only damage is fading from the sun and scratches where I ran into something. A gallon of their rusty metal primer and then their topcoat is all I used after a power wash with some degreaser.

Again, that's exposed 24/7 to all the elements that northern MN throws at it.
 
adamm said:
Not disagreeing on quality auto paint, but I've also had rustoleum on a tractor that sits outside 24/7 unprotected. Been about 10 years and the only damage is fading from the sun and scratches where I ran into something. A gallon of their rusty metal primer and then their topcoat is all I used after a power wash with some degreaser.

Again, that's exposed 24/7 to all the elements that northern MN throws at it.
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I should note I put it on with a brush and roller.
 
I am going to get my original paint color put into spray cans and spray the engine bay myself. Any tips guys? I am going to prep the metal and paint with sanding and de greaser first of course.
 
I did that and it came out reasonably well but if I had to do it again I would buy a cheap harbor freight paint gun and borrow or use a small compressor. Would have come out better.
 
67dodgedartconv said:
I did that and it came out reasonably well but if I had to do it again I would buy a cheap harbor freight paint gun and borrow or use a small compressor. Would have come out better.
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Any suggestions on paint guns? there are lots and lots of options and I’m not sure if the difference/what I’ll need for my car.
 
Maybe one of the smaller "detail" type harbor freight guns that don't have as large an air cfm requirement as the larger ones. That means you can use a smaller compressor. Use one of the small air/water filters they sell that hooks into the gun air supply hose. Lots of people here know more than me. Look at harbor freight paint gun reviews on their website.
 
Check out por -15 good stuff clean the loose rust and brush it on, it will seal the rust and stop it you can paint over it when ever you want. cost is about $45 a quart and will do a lot more than an engine bay.
 
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