Rust

[bassguy1970]

OK guys I'm gonna pick your brains again. Last night I'm in the garage pulling the driveshaft, getting ready to you yank the six out. Well while I'm under the car I notice the inside of the framerails are toast. I can put my hand inside some of the holes. A lot of guys talk about auto rust technicians, with the caps they make. Has any one replaced the rails in there car. Should I farm it out? I'm really not worried about keeping it original, I don't think theres enough good metal to weld the caps. If any one has some before and after pics that would be great. I only paid 500 for the car so I expect this. I just don't wanna get in over my head. If any one has farmed this out what does this usually cost, ballpark? Oh if you guys that help with the welder question are reading this,,,,Thanks

Dan

 

[pastortom1]

Usually a "cap" will have a sufficient lip on each side, like the originals, to properly weld with and avoid the rust which is usually within the body of the rails........and the floorboard areas above the bad rust can be shot as well.....

You can buy SOME caps, but as for how many different ones they make at this time I don't know........Check "Sherman" parts, and some other panel distributors for your options.......some caps can be cut and used in various places.

The key in capping is to be sure your rusted area has first been "cut out", meaning all loose rust removed so there are uniform holes, THEN a chemical agent brushed or sprayed in to STOP the oxidation process.....POR makes some good products....there are a few good ones out there....it changes the make-up of the rust and stops the spread.....then you can apply some good epoxy primer in and out, and fit your caps....once you've fit the cap, clean at the point of your welds (or use weld through coating instead of epoxy), and cap it in......drilling the edges and spot welding with your MIG works well if you have enough solid metal to work with.....

Not seeing your rusted parts and how bad they are limits the advice you can get.......but what I've said is a proper procedure for a driver quality repair of a rusted frame rail. The more extensive way would be to cut out and replace the affected rail....more cash, more time, more expense.....and as far as cost, EVERY welder is different.........You're gonna have to show them the area, and get an estimate. 8)

 

[klunick]

I just got my ART Caps yesterday. Man are they heavy duty. Apparently they are 13 gauge and the original rails were suppose to have been 14 gauge according to what I have read. The rails do not have the flange at the top of them. If I am reading things correctly it looks like the front rails are actually suppose to be cut out, at least the bottom part, and then you weld the caps over the remaining part up by the flange. For me, this could work out well. I estimate about 50% of my front rails are rotted from the inside. I am going to be media blasting the car so first I plan on spinning it on the roto and doing the whole car, then setting it down on stands using the frame fore the torsion bars, then cutting the bottom of the rails and all the crap out. Finally, I will just take the blaster and blast inside the rails now that the bottom is gone. Some folks have told me the Caps are crap and will only last 10 years. I say BS. Blast what is left of the original rail inside and out, you can use something like POR15 inside, but ART suggested using a weld thru primer that in theory, reapllies zinc, put it on the inside and out of the old rail and the inside of the cap. If properly done, the cap/new rail should last as long as the original and structually, be stronger. It will be straight because you didn't adjust anything near the flanged area. These rails are heavy duty.

 

[bassguy1970]

Thanks guys I was talking to the guys at auto rust yesterday, I'm thinking of just bringing it there. They aren't very far from me. This is my first resto and I don't want to get in over my head. Mainly what I'm looking for is strength. I'm building a big block for her. Big decisions goiong on here. Thanks again for the input. I figure they can put the floors in while they do the frame connecters and what not. Ok have a good night.

Dan