Shes alive an shes stayin alive!!

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i installed a new cam an gear drive but had no clue how to degere the cam an she was 180 off an my valves kicked my pistons butt, all better now ive now done 3 cam installs on other cars an they all had great outcomes,the car is running now with just all the little odd ends here an there,upgrading to a new throttle this weeked so i can junk the crap i have now.shes running great now with no probs,an shes hella nasty with the moroso mufflers under her belly
MIKE
 
six pack said:
Have you pulled the dist and moved it 180º since you put it together originally?
If you haven't you are 180º out.:)
Click to expand...

Ditto
 
kruger said:
Ditto
Click to expand...
Yup did all the right things this time i pulled athe motor for other resones an tore the front end apart an did it the right way,shes all good an running like a bat out hell,i have her almost complete an ready to kill agian,but man she flys down the street i brought her up to around 31-3200 an launched an HOLLY HELL SHES GOT ALL NASTY,spun the tires all the way to 65 hitting all gears as hard as i could trying the new pistol grip out an it passes with flying colors,now i need to get some new shoes for her the 255's just dont cut it with the 3800 stall an the 4.56's
:bootysha:
MIKE
 
My buddy had both of her but he erased them so he could go to a motocross race!ill try to get more made up soon
 
Balast Resistor, have you replaced that? It happened to me last Winter, little white piece of ceramic made me get new plugs, wires, dist. cap, electronic ignition, and the damn thing cost 5$. I didn't read all the posts so I'm not sure if anyone else proposed this (probably did, or you've probably checked yourself) but there's my experience.

Well, being the smart kid I am (give me a break I haven't graduated HS yet) I read a few of the latest posts right after posting this, and it looks like the problem is solved. So nevermind.
 
Put your finger in No. 1 hole with spark plug out. Turn engine over and stop when you feel the highest compression. Then check for position of the rotor. You may have to take all the other plugs out to turn the engine to turn the engine manually. Also check the rocker arm positions relating to NO. 1, the valves should be closed. Ive also found sediment in the check valve of the carb, allowing the fuel bowl to fill very slowly, causing the engine to run for a short period of time. I'm assuming you have verified that you have "spark". I always rely on starting fluid to verify whether it is spark or gas causing the problem. Howco4
 
Thanks guys,the car is up an running great right now this week end im putting in all my MSD stuff an pluging in my new G tech tuner,last week end she did a 13.61 at 103.03 in the 1/4 no tracktion,a 0-60 in 4.6 sec, 1/8 mile in 8.45 at 93.23mpg,i left at about 3200 shift at 5800 an she spun all of first an up to 60-65 in second a spun hard for a good 10 feet into 3rd,with the new 8 3/4 an the spool an the 4.56's an that built 727 shes a killer for being only a 318,as soon as i get the msd id like to cut that time way down,an put my new tires on to give her the meat that she needs to haul ***
MIKE
 
I would find out from Milodon where the marks are supposed to line up, then check to see if you are correct. It sounds as if they have the dots both straight up, it will act weird and fart and puke, as some cylinders will fire, and others will be late/early. If you have the marks correct, the only issue can be TDC, (is it on compression: both valves closed) or firing order. Make sure the rotor is going the way you wired it, Big Blocks turn the opposite of Small Blocks because of the distributor being in the front.
 
From the sounds of your description you have a real screamer on your hands,What kind of car is it anyway.I can't seem to tell by the pic in your sig.
 
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i drive a 72 Dart with a 318 360 heads,mild cam,gear drive,headersdemon 650 all elec front.fan water,hurst build 727 built in 91 with all the goods 3800 stall,a nice little rearend with moser 35 spline axles,spool,a 4.56's,with a 255 tire right now that sucks hard core,but still building the car to house some new meats 325/50s
 
Damn Dude!!! You got 4:56's in that thing.I bet it hauls the mail from stop light to stop light.Looks like a nice little dart.I lo0ve the centerlines on it.I plan on building a 360 for my cuda this winter.Hope i don't run into any problems with it being my first real engine build.You ever run that thing down the 1/4 mile before.

On a different note.With you being from cali. Have you ever met a guy from scatpack.com called MadMarc???Last i heard he was driving a red stratus.
 
13.51 at 103.75 in the 1/4 nothin but tire spin all the way to 85-90 last night, with my buddies 68 406 tempest he runs a 13.11 with tire spin too,we raced with are G tech tuner that plugs into yur cig lighter an tells u all the goods yur car does an makes,HP,TQ,0-60,1/8,1/4,G pull,60-0 breaking,an it holds up to 30 hours of time,an its damn acuarate my dad took it out to sac a few weeks ago an he ran 13.62 in his SRT-4 an the G tech said he ran the same time at the same speed!so ya id say it works hella good,my car made 288HP an 337tq to the ground an my buddy made 412hp an 474tq with his big block pontiac,his car is a TQ monster witha a 0-60 at 4.71, an his 1/8 mile is 8.74,my car 0-60 was 4.5,an 1/8 was 8.21,his car pulls hella hard on top end an pulls me buy half car but last night he had me buy a tire length!pretty cool little 318 i think
MIKE
 
your distributor is probably 180 degrees out pull the distributor out turn it 180 degrees and put back in had that problem before
 
You said it starts then runs for a few seconds then dies...The ballast resistor is bypassed during starting- so the coil will have full battery voltage, (12v +/-). When you let go of the key, the ignition switch springs back a few degrees and re-routs the ignition power thru the ballast resistor. This is to help start the engine with max spark then back off to about 9 volts so the coil won't over heat during drive mode. Maybe the resistor is burned, not matched to your coil or the "run" wiring circuit is faulty. You might try watching the timing advance (with a light) while someone else starts the car. See how much the spark advance changes from cranking to running. Also the suggestions about fuel filter, pump and dirt in the carb are good advice to check up on. As far as the timing swaping to 180 out... look for arcing inside the cap or plug wires cross-firing thru the insulation. Recheck the direction of rotation and wire sequence, IIRC 5&7 are easy to mix up and they will fight each other. Last resort...get it to a sympathetic tuneup guy and beg for help.
 
I had a problem like that years ago. Are your crank and cam gears new? Are they solid? The old style cam gear has a nylon gear ring and if broken will slip on the inner ring and take your cam - crank timing out. Just a thought.
 
Here's a few thoughts...
1 Big and small block distributers rotate in oposite directions..check yours. When turning backwards a couple of cylinders might fire and produce some of the symptoms you have mentioned.
2 Even though you replaced the fuel filter it may be partially clogged again from the few weeks you drove with it. Does your carb lso have an internal filter/screen?
3 It is rare but possible that the cam was not properly ground or not the correct # for your engine. This could account for the low compression, back-firing and failure to run.
4 To bypass some ignition issues, you might try a hotwire from the coil directly to the + on the battery.
**DON'T RUN THIS WAY for more than a minute or two or you might burnout your coil. **
5 Check that you have a good engine to ground connection and crazy as it sounds- confirm that your battery or coil is not connected backwards.
6 The woodruff key on the crank or cam may have sheared or be missing causing the cam and crank to be out of phase or shifting. Try to cranking the engine by hand or by the starter in "ticks" with the valve covers and dist. cap removed. Observe the valve rocker functions and confirm their proper ordre & functioning while noting the ignition rotor position.
7. Last resort- you could take it to a shop (or call a mobile mechanic) and ask for a diagnosis and/or repair.
M
 
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