Split exhaustmanifold on e-bag

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Welding cast is an art, I hope this guy is an artist, or the welded elbow on the 1.2.3 cylinders will crack.

I would personally go with a set of headers, if flow and dual exhaust is your direction, or Dutra's if you want the above, it a stock looking, maintainence free package. I like the look of Dutra x 2 on an engine, really slick, but $$
 
Well, a single Dutra for the front wouldn't be exactly cost-prohibitive, not compared to what A-body headers go for. And you can close off the 4-5-6 half without welding. I wasn't planning on buying it, just said that it was a curious looking piece of work.​
 
I've been following this one too. It's quickly going out of my price range for a "maybe this will work" purchase. I've been learning quickly that sometimes it's just better to save a little while and get the good stuff.
 
Yep! I have ben watching it too.
As most of yall know I am running a 170/ not a 225/.
A 170 is a shorter block and the headers don't fit and hit the water pump
and the starter, I hat to spend good mony on headers and then they have to be dimpled with a torch and a hammer.
there is not a header mad for the 170/.:protest:
The best thing I can do is wait for someone to make a set or just do some honing and put a 2 1/4 pipe off the flange and go with that.:read2:
 
pharmboy said:
Well, a single Dutra for the front wouldn't be exactly cost-prohibitive, not compared to what A-body headers go for. And you can close off the 4-5-6 half without welding. I wasn't planning on buying it, just said that it was a curious looking piece of work.​
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I am not attacking it, the price and quality of work seems reasonable. My only concern is the frequency of cracked cast iron manifolds when they are welded. I would hate to see someone get it, run it for a while, and the weld fracture, and them being stuck, either going back to stock, buying headers or buying a Dutra, all of which would require modifications to the existing exhaust system.
 
memike said:
Yep! I have ben watching it too.
As most of yall know I am running a 170/ not a 225/.
A 170 is a shorter block and the headers don't fit and hit the water pump
and the starter, I hat to spend good mony on headers and then they have to be dimpled with a torch and a hammer.
there is not a header mad for the 170/.:protest:
The best thing I can do is wait for someone to make a set or just do some honing and put a 2 1/4 pipe off the flange and go with that.:read2:
Click to expand...

Why not Dutra Duals?
 
I think maybe for Christmas I'll see if I can get a dutra dual front casting. I see the best of both worlds. The new intake for my birthday has manifold heat provisions...which could come off the rear section, use the dutra dual up front, any credible muffler shop should be able to weld up a Y-pipe(2.25" exiting to a single 2.5"), and let the little six banger scream a little louder.
 
pharmboy said:
Doug Dutra still casts them. A front section is $225. Not a bad deal if you do the work on the back section yourself.
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Where and how much for a complete set after I send in my / exhaust to him.
I could not get a good phone # or site number to order them up.

Talk went around that he sold his molds and stopped production,:read2:
 
If I was going to use the Dutra setup, I would run 2 of them. They look awesme this way, and is the perfect setup for a true dual, deeper breathing system.
 
memike said:
Talk went around that he sold his molds and stopped production,:read2:
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I think you're thinking of his Hyperpack intake manifold molds — he sold THOSE to Clifford and can't make any more.

He still casts Dutra exhaust manifolds in batches. Yeah, he runs out once in a while, but he's always been willing to make some more.

Now, I love Doug to death, but if money is tight, I'd just buy the front casting and have your rear casting done locally. The service, plus, the shipping both ways on the rear casting is what can make "real" Dutra Duals so pricey. I had my rear manifold cut and welded shut by a local welder — cost me $40 total. $225+$40=$265, well worth the price for the performance improvement and durability.

It all depends on the car's usage in my opinion: Race car or weekender? Headers, for light weight and better flow. Daily driver? The indestructibility of cast iron Dutras, plus carb heat for quicker warm-ups. Bolt 'em on and forget 'em. Plus, my slant makes less noise under the hood and more out of the tailpipes, where it's supposed to. ;)

But if I add M.P.F.I. eventually (my intention), the new intakes I'm considering won't work with the Dutra-style rear manifold, so I'll be switching to headers. So it's not like I'm "anti-headers" or anything...
 
memike said:
Talk went around that he sold his molds and stopped production,:read2:
Click to expand...

Doug Dutra sold the molds for the HyperPack intake to Clifford. He still makes the exhaust manifolds. IMO you would be better off ordering both manifolds and staying away from a modified stocker. There are 2 taters in the stock manifold.
 
:http://www.dutra.org/doug/doug-sl6-exhaust/dual-duals/dual-duals.htm

Thanks for this great info, I looked and read the dutra article and if it is this tight for a 225/6 just think how close it would be for a 170/!!
A 170/ is almost 1" shoerter block and would be way to close for my 170/.
I agree with grupuscreature that the rear modified stock manifold would be a tater in the rear 456 exhaust chambers.:sad11::sad11::sad11:

Thanks for all the info 8)
 
I just sent dutra an email and gave him my 170/ header problems I am having and invited him to this site.
I told him I would not need no more then 2''
pipe off the flange and that I hope he can see me through on a good set of headers for Victoria. I hope to be hearing from him after this long weekend.
Witch I call my Strongend, hehe.:drinkers:
 
Heads up on the e-bag on the split manifold The front flange is only 1 3/4 and we all know the back half is 2 1/4.

NOT GOOD !! I bet the reason he took it off his motor is that the 123 manifold gets red hot, or at least hotter then it should.

yep I ask seller a question.
 
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