I ran into the same problem. Looked forever. I finally found this. I hope this link works.
Did you find the picture and dimensions to be accurate? Thanks, -EM
Yes. I have a TKO-600 and the dimensions are accurate. My transmission has 5 pre-drilled holes. The four at the corners are slightly larger than 15/32 diameter, but smaller than 31/64. The fifth hole is inline with and approximately 1.625 inch above the lower driver side mounting hole. The diameter of that hole is 21/64.
I did see someone's project posts (I think on moparts) where they used the "fifth" hole by drilling it out larger since the bottom driver side hole was off the face of the bellhousing. The lower portion on the passenger side has material where you could drill a hole above the existing hole for mounting as you can see in the drawing. I personally did not consider using an "alternate" bolt pattern as I don't think it would be as strong. The lower mounting holes have "ribs" to provide some extra strength as you can see in the dimension pic. The other locations would not have that. I saw a few posts on the Mustang forums that suggested it's not unusual to get cracks around the mount points on these transmissions. That's just my opinion. I'm sure folks have used other hole locations without problems.
Hi EM, You're welcome. I modified an older Ansen steel bellhousing to fit the TKO-600. It has the Hemi trans diameter so I turned down the TKO front bearing retainer to fit. I originally thought it was going to be fairly easy after looking at another guys project using a Lakewood bellhousing. Well, it turns out my bellhousing trans mounting face is smaller than the Lakewood. Three of the four mounting holes landed outside the mounting face. I've eye-balled a stock bellhousing and I confident that will be the case as well.
Originally I thought I would weld some kind of "ear" or something similar onto the bellhousing for the holes that were off the face. But the angle/curve/shape that would be required just wasn't practical. I ended up drilling a 1 inch diameter hole where the mounting bolts were located (3 places), welded in short pieces of 1 inch bar stock (welded from both sides) and then drilled/tapped the bar stock for the mounting bolts.
Hi EM, You're welcome. I modified an older Ansen steel bellhousing to fit the TKO-600. It has the Hemi trans diameter so I turned down the TKO front bearing retainer to fit. I originally thought it was going to be fairly easy after looking at another guys project using a Lakewood bellhousing. Well, it turns out my bellhousing trans mounting face is smaller than the Lakewood. Three of the four mounting holes landed outside the mounting face. I've eye-balled a stock bellhousing and I confident that will be the case as well.
Originally I thought I would weld some kind of "ear" or something similar onto the bellhousing for the holes that were off the face. But the angle/curve/shape that would be required just wasn't practical. I ended up drilling a 1 inch diameter hole where the mounting bolts were located (3 places), welded in short pieces of 1 inch bar stock (welded from both sides) and then drilled/tapped the bar stock for the mounting bolts.
I'm also planning to use the OEM clutch fork but with the stock z-bar.
My project is not yet completed. I referenced the Moparts tech article for the starting point on the throwout bearing and pilot bearing. For the TO bearing, I can say that one for 1997 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 will work. My local O'Rielly Auto Parts had one in stock, National 614093. It was made in China, so I kept looking and ended up buying one from Crown, P/N 53008324. Apparently, Crown has been making parts for Jeeps for a long time so I gave them a try. It turns out that bearing was also from China. I'm sure it will work fine. It fits the TKO bearing retainer and Mopar clutch fork. The face of the bearing is about the same diameter as an old Hemi trans TO bearing I have.
As far as the pilot bearing/bushing, I prefer an actual bushing. The Moparts article references some part numbers that are no longer available. I google'd around for a while and decided to go with my own ideas. I started with Pioneer PB-50-J, bronze bushing. It has a smaller outside diameter than the Mopar crank, but I thought I might machine my own "intermediate bushing" to fit in the crank and have it stick out a little past the end of the crank (because the TKO input shaft is shorter than an 833) and then press the bushing into that. My next idea was to use SKF B50-HD. This is also a bronze bushing (lots of Ford applications, ex. F250 65-76) with an outside diameter large than the Mopar crank. The idea is to turn down the outside diameter to fit the larger torque converter opening in the crank. I bought both. I'll try the SKF bearing first (I think).
Moparts Tech Article
