Tow points under K member

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RockinRobin

RockinRobin

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ENCLOSED TRAILER I have been wrapping my front tow straps, with a sleeve, around my K member, but occasionally when I hit some bad bumps it cuts the tow strap. I've been thinking about welding something under the K member to attach tow hook to, or is there a better way. Can't do tire straps, can't get to them once car is inside trailer.
(Stock K member)
 
I just use axle straps that have the sleeve over them and around the K member as well. Both Demons as well as my 69 Charger. I've never had issues doing that. Wonder if your K has something sharp that could be blended/smoothed out or ???
 
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Demonx2 said:
I just use axle straps that have the sleeve over them and around the K member as well. Both Demons as well as my 69 Charher. I've never had issues doing that. Wonder if your K has something sharp that could be blended/smoothed out or ???
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Either that or I'm ratcheting them too tight.
 
You just need the little plastic clips that go on the edges to protect the straps. You can roll your own out of some PEX
 
Why cant you use something like this, called an RTJ cluster??? and not wrap around the K at all. That bent finger looking hook fits in the front stub of an A body, as well as other optional locations (assuming stock frame).

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I use over the tire straps and have E-Track Mounted in my trailer. The suspension is completely free to move through its normal cycles!

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Fab up a bracket that mounts to the bumper bolts on the frame. Make them triangle shaped with holes at bottom large enough to accommodate your strap hooks . They would be out of sight and high enough to not be prone to scraping over speed bumps etc .
Not to mention you wont bend any suspension components.
 
Didn't the factory have tie-down hooks that were bolted to the frame at the factory and then removed on setup? If so, a set of those should work well.
 
RockinRobin said:
Yes I also use a winch strap around the k member to winch the car in and out, but I'm not going to leave it under tension when I tow.
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Might check the laws in your state but I seem to remember something about the winch not being allowed to be part of the tie down system here in commiefornia. I have a vague recollection of someone telling me they got a ticket for it.
 
You should never tie the bounced weight of the car down without blocking. When the trailer hits a bump the car will also bounce. This causes the straps to slack and snap tight.

I have been towing cars long distance for a very long time . Always tie the unsprung weight of the car . Rear axle and the end of the control arms near the ball joint. Let the car bounce the straps stay tight.

You don't know how many times I see people pull the body down with straps. just to see them come off when getting slack on bumps

If you use k-member tie down hoops welded on . Put a block on top of the control arm bump stop and pull the car down until they are tight. Or stick a tall wooden block under the K-member. Never let the car have slack to bounce if tying the body down .

On a stock suspension car I use these straps pictured and wrap the axle and the control arms on all 4 corners of the car and X the ratchet straps. I Never had a car come loose or a strap rip .

They are called axle straps They have a cut resistant sleeve that can be position anywhere on the strap.


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You never want to tie down the frame. Axels, outer lower control arms and over the wheels. Depending on where the tie down points are dictates how the car is tied down. Don’t want to cross tie unless pulling to center point of car from the 4 corners. If pulling back, it’s best to pull straight.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Might check the laws in your state but I seem to remember something about the winch not being allowed to be part of the tie down system here in commiefornia. I have a vague recollection of someone telling me they got a ticket for it.
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Won't need to since it is not part of my tie down system.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
You should never tie the bounced weight of the car down without blocking. When the trailer hits a bump the car will also bounce. This causes the straps to slack and snap tight.

I have been towing cars long distance for a very long time . Always tie the unsprung weight of the car . Rear axle and the end of the control arms near the ball joint. Let the car bounce the straps stay tight.

You don't know how many times I see people pull the body down with straps. just to see them come off when getting slack on bumps

If you use k-member tie down hoops welded on . Put a block on top of the control arm bump stop and pull the car down until they are tight. Or stick a tall wooden block under the K-member. Never let the car have slack to bounce if tying the body down .

On a stock suspension car I use these straps pictured and wrap the axle and the control arms on all 4 corners of the car and X the ratchet straps. I Never had a car come loose or a strap rip .

They are called axle straps They have a cut resistant sleeve that can be position anywhere on the strap.


View attachment 1716407373
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Yes I have a set of these axle straps as I said before. I use one to winch the car in/out of the trailer. I'm afraid to use them on my rear axle because the brake line runs along the axle and I'm afraid I'll crush the brake line.
 
RockinRobin said:
Yes I have a set of these axle straps as I said before. I use one to winch the car in/out of the trailer. I'm afraid to use them on my rear axle because the brake line runs along the axle and I'm afraid I'll crush the brake line.
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Run it under the brake line. The line kicks up at the end of the tubes…

It’s legal to only use 3 points to tie down a car. Look at Car transporters, sprint car guys also.
 
RockinRobin said:
Yes I have a set of these axle straps as I said before. I use one to winch the car in/out of the trailer. I'm afraid to use them on my rear axle because the brake line runs along the axle and I'm afraid I'll crush the brake line.
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They don't squash the brake line. But if you are worried wrap them over the leaf spring in front of the rear.
 
I had already seen a car in an enclosed trailer with the quarter damaged from the car sliding to the side . The straps were straight back and the car slid to the side on a slippery floor.

I always cross the straps from one side to the other. Holds the car center and back. My front straps are short so they can pull straight with no side movement.

When we haul the skid loader with the dump trailer. We hook them straight. The tires are always up against the side of the trailer by the time we get to where we are going. That floor is not that smooth and the loader is 8000 lbs. It still slides. But My driving is never at slow speeds on turns.
 
I weld a loop on the k member to be able to winch the car in the trailer. The AMX I race I made a removable bolt in section of the k member, and welded loops to winch the car in and tie down in the trailer.

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