Turning torque for engine

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Ant said:
Is the radiator cap venting?

Also, run it with the cap off and see if it becomes a volcano. It may just purge more air out with a little mess and then be fine. Be careful, hot coolant hurts. After that, put the cap back on and see it it gets too hot.
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I’ve run the engine with the cap off to watch the coolant flow. No real issues . The hoses get pretty hard like pressure build up . Thought maybe head gasket but chemical tests came out negative. I’ve tried different caps . No change. I have always felt the hoses got Way too hard.
 
Slappy said:
I’ve run the engine with the cap off to watch the coolant flow. No real issues . The hoses get pretty hard like pressure build up . Thought maybe head gasket but chemical tests came out negative. I’ve tried different caps . No change. I have always felt the hoses got Way too hard.
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14-16 psi will make hoses get pretty hard.
 
What is your timing at 1500, 2500,and 3000rpm. Late timing will cause over heating I've Seen it many times in brand x
 
furrystump said:
High turning torque creating an overheat condition would have let you know already, it would have wiped the bearings and started knocking. I hate to say it, but I would go back through the cooling system and list every part. Any other signs it is hot other than the gauge?
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Currently going through everything from scratch
 
crazy 340 said:
been there feel your frustration


what i done so far to help it stay cool that help


i ditch the 3 row by 22 inch champion rad and instaled there 26 inch , i intaled there 26 inch after having one under warranty because there 22 was doing nothing good

instaled the ferd cougar fan setup
that help alote

by running both fan at the low speed in town engine doesnt go over 185 even in the hottest weather

remove the thermostat instaled a restrictor and plug the bypass hose at the water pump with a 1/2 npt plug

for the water pump i try both the mopar high flow and the napa standard pump that didnt made any diference

try diferent pully didnt help either

im confident that the rad is the problem

3 row 3/4 wide never gonna cool as mutch as griffin with ther 2 row 1 inch

if i knew back than i would i buy the first and the last time a good rad like a griffin


my two cents
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I will look into this . Maybe having the two row radiator might give me a little bit more space but I don’t think I can fit those fans in there. But I am definitely going to look into this.
 
You may have more room than you think. I had something like 3-1/4" from the water pump snout to the back of my Champion radiator on the avatar. I wasn't sure what I was going to do given such a small amount of space. One thing in your favor is the water pump snout does not fit up against the fan motors - it actually tucks in between them. I was skeptical until I made mine up per the pic I shared earlier (note that I blocked the areas that look to be open along the outer edges as part of the final build).

And again, this is not about heat rejection at max load. This is about part throttle heat rejection so you should have plenty of cooling capacity in that radiator. Again, the avatar's 408 is kept in check down here in Florida so far in 90+ weather. It may get up as high as 195 (usually if I forget to flip the 2nd fan on) but typically runs in the 170-180 range.
 
Slappy said:
The radiator is a three row champion radiator. The coolant system cap pressure is a fliptop type 16 pounds. I have tried lower pounds nothing has changed. Obviously it would run hotter at a lower pound. I have never let the car get over 220. I’ve shut it down every time. The engine does not even have 150 miles on it. no matter if I’m on the highway or running around town temperature just continues to climb until I have to shut it down. I have tried different CFM coolant fans, etc. nothing seems to work. I can spend the engine over with a half inch drive ratchet without really any problems. And the spark plugs are in. Any help is appreciated and I thank you.
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Slappy said:
The radiator is a three row champion radiator. The coolant system cap pressure is a fliptop type 16 pounds. I have tried lower pounds nothing has changed. Obviously it would run hotter at a lower pound. I have never let the car get over 220. I’ve shut it down every time. The engine does not even have 150 miles on it. no matter if I’m on the highway or running around town temperature just continues to climb until I have to shut it down. I have tried different CFM coolant fans, etc. nothing seems to work. I can spend the engine over with a half inch drive ratchet without really any problems. And the spark plugs are in. Any help is appreciated and I thank you.
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These problems can be really tough and frustrating. At highway speed, say 50-60 mph, you should be getting enough airflow through the radiator core, and should not have an overheating problem, even with no fans. Right or wrong, this is what I would try. Get to highway speed while the engine is still cool and see what happens. The temperature should raise to no more than 160 or so while you are at speed, then rise rapidly when you slow down or stop. If the temperature stays down at highway speed, the radiator and engine coolant flow are probably OK, and your problem is likely fan related. But, if the temperature keeps rising at highway speed, I would then try checking the coolant flow through the radiator and from the top radiator hose. If you are not already running plain water, drain and save the coolant, because otherwise it will get all over everything and can be very hard to get off. With no thermostat installed, I would disconnect the upper radiator hose at the radiator and watch the flow. Tape off the radiator upper hose input, stuff a garden water hose in the radiator filler hole, turn on the engine and the water, and look for a strong flow. If the flow is good, water will spew out. If the flow is low, then you can start troubleshooting. If the flow is good, I would suspect the radiator. Checking the flow is very messy, so if you can think of a way to capture the water please tell me how you did it.
 
360notch said:
These problems can be really tough and frustrating. At highway speed, say 50-60 mph, you should be getting enough airflow through the radiator core, and should not have an overheating problem, even with no fans. Right or wrong, this is what I would try. Get to highway speed while the engine is still cool and see what happens. The temperature should raise to no more than 160 or so while you are at speed, then rise rapidly when you slow down or stop. If the temperature stays down at highway speed, the radiator and engine coolant flow are probably OK, and your problem is likely fan related. But, if the temperature keeps rising at highway speed, I would then try checking the coolant flow through the radiator and from the top radiator hose. If you are not already running plain water, drain and save the coolant, because otherwise it will get all over everything and can be very hard to get off. With no thermostat installed, I would disconnect the upper radiator hose at the radiator and watch the flow. Tape off the radiator upper hose input, stuff a garden water hose in the radiator filler hole, turn on the engine and the water, and look for a strong flow. If the flow is good, water will spew out. If the flow is low, then you can start troubleshooting. If the flow is good, I would suspect the radiator. Checking the flow is very messy, so if you can think of a way to capture the water please tell me how you did it.
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In reality the temperature should never vary much above thermostat opening.

If it’s getting hot going down the freeway then the pump is turning too slow. It won’t matter if you have a 200 mph wind it won’t cool if the pump is turning too slow.

Same in slow traffic and at stop lights. If it won’t stay cool it’s probably because the pump and by extension the fan is turning too slow.

Chrysler used overdrive pulleys on lots of engines.

The slowest a pump should turn is 1:1 and overdriven is better.

All this **** started with guys going to under drive pulleys to save power and all it does is cost power.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Without the plugs in it, I would say it should turn without making a click type torque wrench click set between 25 - 35 LBFT.
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My 360 magnum came in at 36

Does it have a hi vol pump on it
An ac pulley on small block will speed the pump up considerably
 
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