Water Pump/TC Bolts

[j_anderson]

These are the bolts from my '72 318 for the water pump and TC cover.

The 4 long bolts obviously go above and below the water inlet/outlet ports. My question is...of those 4 long bolts, 3 are 5-1/4" and the fourth is 5". Which position does the 5" bolt get installed?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I can't tell you for sure, but if that was mine, I'd get a new stainless water pump/timing cover bolt set. Those are horrible.

 

[j_anderson]

I can't tell you for sure, but if that was mine, I'd get a new stainless water pump/timing cover bolt set. Those are horrible.

Already on it. It’s why I laid them all out and measured them. That’s when I discovered the one of four that was a tad shorter and got me wondering on placement

 

[RustyRatRod]

Already on it. It’s why I laid them all out and measured them. That’s when I discovered the one of four that was a tad shorter and got me wondering on placement

I believe the short one was a replacement, OR someone cut a rotten end off of it.

 

[Professor Fate]

Short bolt of the four goes in the bottom hole of the driver's side.
A long bolt in there can actually crack the #1 cylinder.
Clean those bolts up. Real good. Then chase the block threads. Then thread the bolts in all the way by hand. They should go all the way in with no issues.
You have to do it this way to make sure the bolts will be the right length- depending on application and how the engine was originally equipped, bolts can be longer due to extra and/or overlapping brackets for PS, AC, air pumps, etc. and if any of that is no longer going to be used you could easily end up with bolts that are longer than required. This is one place you don't want to force a bolt in, it could be costly.
Once you confirm everything is OK, give those bolt threads a coat of sealer before final assembly- they go into the water jacket and you want to avoid tearing it back apart to address coolant seepage.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Short bolt of the four goes in the bottom hole of the driver's side.
A long bolt in there can actually crack the #1 cylinder.
Clean those bolts up. Real good. Then chase the block threads. Then thread the bolts in all the way by hand. They should go all the way in with no issues.
You have to do it this way to make sure the bolts will be the right length- depending on application and how the engine was originally equipped, bolts can be longer due to extra and/or overlapping brackets for PS, AC, air pumps, etc. and if any of that is no longer going to be used you could easily end up with bolts that are longer than required. This is one place you don't want to force a bolt in, it could be costly.
Once you confirm everything is OK, give those bolt threads a coat of sealer before final assembly- they go into the water jacket and you want to avoid tearing it back apart to address coolant seepage.

You sure? I thought the problem child hole was the second from the bottom on the driver's side?

 

[junkyardhero]

i know it's an early pump, but this is the basic idea.

watch the bolt length on ALL the stuff on the driver's side because the cylinder wall is right there. though the upper goes thru to the valley, the 2nd lower one can catch the cyl wall. the same with the others in the cover. the 2nd up from the bottom on that side it is critical that it be 1" or it will catch the wall.

 

[townsend]

Agree with Professor Fate on location of 5 inch bolt going in the bottom hole on driver side.
3 bolts that are 5-1/4 inch: 6028166
1 bolt that is 5 inch: 9421897
These numbers can be found in the 1972-1982 Chrysler parts catalogs.

 

[j_anderson]

Thanks everyone. My car has power steering and AC so it's got all the brackets. I have reached out to ARP. Hoping they can put a kit together for me. I've got ARP bolts all over the engine and want these to match.