Where's the Wow?

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So, apparently I messed up the install somewhere, dots don't line up. Going to start over finding TDC and cam centerline. Thanks for the advice. At least I believe there's hope for this engine!

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roll the motor again, both dots will line up, if cam dot is at 12 o clock, then your on #1 tdc. with dots at 6 o clock and 12 o clock, you're on # 6 tdc. the cam goes in on $ 6 tdc. then you roll it until the dots are 12 on cam gear and 12 on crank gear.
 
Well you ain't afraid of fixin' it lol.... Since you have this thing apart and if you have the tool leak it down..... Wash, rinse, and repeat. Sounds like you are on your way.....


JW
 
Were is the other dot, can`t see in pic. Is it at the top of timing gear? Spin crank another revalotion and see if they line up.
 
Yeah the cam dot doesn't show up to well. It is at about 5 o clock. As I think about it I believe the old balancer is slipping because if I turn the crank the crank a little they line up. The performance seems to have gotten worse also. I had the balancer at TDC before I pulled it off and that's where the crank for was. I know they were lined up better than that when I put it together.
 
Yeah the cam dot doesn't show up to well. It is at about 5 o clock. As I think about it I believe the old balancer is slipping because if I turn the crank the crank a little they line up. The performance seems to have gotten worse also. I had the balancer at TDC before I pulled it off and that's where the crank for was. I know they were lined up better than that when I put it together.
Is there a chance you lined up the dot on the key way instead of the dot your showing now?? Looks like it's about 3 teeth off, and that is where it would be if you did that. Your harmonic balance can slip, but it won't move the timing chain from being dot-to-dot, it will just mess with you as you try and time it. Wish I could see it better in the picture
 
Mark the dots with a permanent marker and take another picture. I thought you degreed the cam? Did you check TDC with a positive stop or a dial indicator?
 
Hopefully this one helps. When I took off the balancer it was at TDC

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Looks like you missed.... It appears to be one tooth off
 
Looks lined up to me. Rotate the crank slightly CW. The crank gear dot will move to the right, the cam gear dot will move to the left.
 
Looks lined up to me. Rotate the crank slightly CW. The crank gear dot will move to the right, the cam gear dot will move to the left.
hard to tell by the picture. Looks like the cam dot is at 6 o'clock.
 
Its hard to get a good shot but I think it may line up if I turn it a little. Which is why I think it's the balancer. I will try lining it up.
 
looks lined up to me to, if it was 1 tooth off it would be further off, rotate the crank put a ruler across the center of the cam & crank I bet they line up.
 
I dunno, looks like it's NOT quite at TDC, and rollin' the crank will probably line those marks up. The line of sight of that pic is comin' slightly from the pass. side, & even
though the Chilton's shows it the same in different books & sections, it is WRONG. The FSM & Motor's both clearly show the CAM Tooth TIP to CRANK NOTCH, not the
other way around!
My eye says the crank isn't there yet, I would check that damper for sure,.......................
 
Just laid a clear straightedge over the pic...while using my cursor to mark the crank center as best I could. hmmmm...
 
Ok, I turned the crank a little and now they line up. So if they line up now and the balancer was at TDC when I pulled it, the balancer must be slipping?
 
Roll it over again and come tdc #1 firing using a piston stop. Cam should be 12 and crank 12.
Ok, I turned the crank a little and now they line up. So if they line up now and the balancer was at TDC when I pulled it, the balancer must be slipping?
 
your going to have to check it when pulling the balancer off the crank probably turned a little. you need a piston stop and the degree wheel after you put it back together and check the balancer.
 
Theres 4 marks on the balancer. The tdc mark will be lined up twice. Where you have it is usually where I put my ditributer in and point the rotor at #1.
 
If You've got the marks lined up w/the crank/cam centers, slip the cover & damper back on, where's it at?
 
You keep sayin you degreed the cam. WHERE is the ICL? If you cannot answer that, you didn not degree anything.

That's a whopper of a cam for a stone stock pistoned engine with probably 8:1 or less static compression. Yup, that's right. The deck heights were terribly high on these engines and combustion chambers were generally big. I have seen then routinely blueprint at under 8:1.

So, you CAN make chicken salad out of chicken ****........if you will just listen. Advance that cam down around 100 ICL and that pup will come alive.

When you get that done and you KNOW it's right and not half assed guessed at (no offense) then recurve the distributor timing. You will want "somewhere" around 20* initial timing and limit the total to "around" 36* and you want it all in by about 2500 "or so" RPM.

Doing those two things alone can add possibly as much as 75 HP and 100 pound feet of torque....and no I ain't kiddin. None of this is in the carburetor jetting. It's all in the timing. Almost every stinkin bit of it.
 
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