**600hp sbm block limit? Or is it bs!!**

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And stirring, the pot is swirling now folks!!!
He can’t help himself.
 
Yep. Post up your big power **** with numbers. Who are YOU? Just another forum nobody.
The real question is, “Who are YOU?” Since I’ve read everything you wrote in this thread and I have seen only;

Arguing
Calling honest members out
Claimed you have no money and can’t afford to do what they did
Then the funny **** you wrote, slander them for having the money/time/skill/knowledge/friends and machinists to help them along.
Talk out of your ***

Like I said before, “I don’t remember YOU in the DYNO ROOM” when **** was tested. Since that’s the case, who the F are you to call bullshit?

Don’t answer the question that can’t be answered, I’ll do it for you.

You are NOBODY and it’s obvious your here just to argue for the sake of arguing.

This is little girl stuff and in the manner of which you argue, a leftist little girl.

Tell me your pronouns & sexual state of being today as well as for tomorrow.

Sigh…. Just another keyboard commando looooooooossssssser joining FABO to stir the pot for stirring sakes.
 
What I getting from this is an under 600 NA hp street strip especially one that's not seeing a lot of strip stock block should be no worries. A 600-699 hp drag race engine should be able to use stock block you may be running borrowed time, doesn't seem like of people are showing a lot of examples failures though, so might be fine, 700 + hp I imagine not a ton of examples out there still haven't seen people post failures but probably should be budgeting an aftermarket block at this level. And power adders might be able to squeeze more?
 
I'm pretty sure, he sounds like an older member that's gone by many names over the years. :)
Whoever he is , he ain't no greenhorn. He's got a valid point.
I for one wouldn't push a stock block over 650 hp and expect to pound on it long term. But that's me and my money.
 
And just let clowns attack me. Ok. Take your shots. I’m hardly a check book racer. I just dont cut corners.

And for the record, I know you guys use soft tune ups to keep that flexible stuff living. Probably by 30-35%. If you start adding power (turbos are easier on ports than roots type blowers) they will hurt themselves.

Ever had a blowby meter hooked up during a dyno pull? If you did you’d be scared.
Hahahhahaha soft. So it is in the tune eh? Unfortunately you have just proven how ignorant you are. Seriously i was really excited you were gone. I love it “start adding power” and how much power we adding? You have nothing to add to any of this. I don’t get scared at blow by, again the ring seal thing you mention is a moot point.
And just let clowns attack me. Ok. Take your shots. I’m hardly a check book racer. I just dont cut corners.

And for the record, I know you guys use soft tune ups to keep that flexible stuff living. Probably by 30-35%. If you start adding power (turbos are easier on ports than roots type blowers) they will hurt themselves.

Ever had a blowby meter hooked
What I getting from this is an under 600 NA hp street strip especially one that's not seeing a lot of strip stock block should be no worries. A 600-699 hp drag race engine should be able to use stock block you may be running borrowed time, doesn't seem like of people are showing a lot of examples failures though, so might be fine, 700 + hp I imagine not a ton of examples out there still haven't seen people post failures but probably should be budgeting an aftermarket block at this level. And power adders might be able to squeeze more?
I think we have sufficiently proven that the small block chrysler will easily hold 1k power without any mods. Super high rpm and you will need to do a little bit of oiling mods. Hydraulic roller will need bushed lifter bores to help maintain oil pressure. Thats the point of this thread. All the other bs huffing and puffing is just anecdotal at best. Nobody has shown any evidence to support their claims except the guys making big power reliably. With that said. An N/A small Mopar doesn’t have a lot of head choices to exceed 600hp except pretty much the W series heads 2,5,7,8,9 with 7,8,9 requiring a 48 degree lifter angle anyways so that would require a Ritter or R block (which is discontinued) so that leaves a heavily ported W2/5 or maybe a TF190 or maybe an eddie rpm that has the pushrod pinch removed. So N/A do what you can and dont worry, if your doing a power adder 1k is safe and if its turbo with good fuel injection and a good tuner then 1200 has been proven reliable and I bet 1500 is possible but unfounded. Not everyone has 12k for a short block so the entire package needs to be aligned. And what I mean by that is you pick a target hp or et and build a motor you can afford. A good quality crank and light weight piston and rod package will do wonders for a stock block and if you are going to push it then keep the stroke down which will help the block live. Its a science and thats why some of the ignorant people get pissed at us that do it. We have the experience and the knowledge to pull it off. Yet they continue to talk about their buddies motor or some dude they once talked to or some internet lie.
 
What I getting from this is an under 600 NA hp street strip especially one that's not seeing a lot of strip stock block should be no worries. A 600-699 hp drag race engine should be able to use stock block you may be running borrowed time, doesn't seem like of people are showing a lot of examples failures though, so might be fine, 700 + hp I imagine not a ton of examples out there still haven't seen people post failures but probably should be budgeting an aftermarket block at this level. And power adders might be able to squeeze more?
IMO, usage dependent. I wouldn’t push it that high myself N/A all day long.
In another point, how many people period, not just here, build small block MoPars into 650-700+hp range? Could this be why you don’t see a high failure rate? Even if there is a failure, do you post up every bit of fix bit information?

A power adder like a turbo is a lot safer of a power adder.
Whoever he is , he ain't no greenhorn. He's got a valid point.
I for one wouldn't push a stock block over 650 hp and expect to pound on it long term. But that's me and my money.
A valid point indeed.
 
A good quality crank and light weight piston and rod package will do wonders for a stock block and if you are going to push it then keep the stroke down which will help the block live.
It all helps and adds up. Good rotating assembly and quality machine work is key for any amount of reliability.
 
Hahahhahaha soft. So it is in the tune eh? Unfortunately you have just proven how ignorant you are. Seriously i was really excited you were gone. I love it “start adding power” and how much power we adding? You have nothing to add to any of this. I don’t get scared at blow by, again the ring seal thing you mention is a moot point.


I think we have sufficiently proven that the small block chrysler will easily hold 1k power without any mods. Super high rpm and you will need to do a little bit of oiling mods. Hydraulic roller will need bushed lifter bores to help maintain oil pressure. Thats the point of this thread. All the other bs huffing and puffing is just anecdotal at best. Nobody has shown any evidence to support their claims except the guys making big power reliably. With that said. An N/A small Mopar doesn’t have a lot of head choices to exceed 600hp except pretty much the W series heads 2,5,7,8,9 with 7,8,9 requiring a 48 degree lifter angle anyways so that would require a Ritter or R block (which is discontinued) so that leaves a heavily ported W2/5 or maybe a TF190 or maybe an eddie rpm that has the pushrod pinch removed. So N/A do what you can and dont worry, if your doing a power adder 1k is safe and if its turbo with good fuel injection and a good tuner then 1200 has been proven reliable and I bet 1500 is possible but unfounded. Not everyone has 12k for a short block so the entire package needs to be aligned. And what I mean by that is you pick a target hp or et and build a motor you can afford. A good quality crank and light weight piston and rod package will do wonders for a stock block and if you are going to push it then keep the stroke down which will help the block live. Its a science and thats why some of the ignorant people get pissed at us that do it. We have the experience and the knowledge to pull it off. Yet they continue to talk about their buddies motor or some dude they once talked to or some internet lie.

Yep. You’re smart and everyone else is a Luddite. Got it. I did notice your buddy above bought a Ritter block. Why bother? He doesn’t need it right?

The only thing “proved” by this thread is you can be a cheap bastard and get lucky. Professionals don’t do that.

It also proves how amateur and silly some of you are. I never said you can’t do it. I said it’s compromised and it’s penny wise and pound foolish.

Again, do what you want. Just don’t sit here and take the high ground thinking you have the bull by the balls. Many that came before you, whose jock you aren’t worthy to even carry would tell you how silly it is to do what’s being done. Just because you get away with something doesn’t make it smart.

You can continue to argue the merits of using 50-60 plus year old blocks, yet you wold never think of using a stock crank or rods. Same difference.

All you have proved is lucky is real.
 
As the pot stirring continues…….

Look in the mirror. What have you contributed? Nothing. Let me see you build 1k hp with a stock block and get it to live. I know I can do it. The difference is I won’t do it. Just like the BBC in my shop, he will learn you can’t cut corners.

And let me know when you’ve actually had something you built on a dyno. My guess is you’ve never seen one.

Keep going. You’re only looking dumber.
 
In my area there is 550-580 hp small blocks in a lot of drag cars.
I think the reason is simple…. The cost. To build a 600+ SB is going to take a bit more $. Basically need the W series heads.
550-580 hp will run bottom 10’s or high 9’s. Most guys don’t want to run in the 9’s (maybe they do but) due to the added cost of safety equipment and chassis certification they stay were it’s affordable.
 
Yep. You’re smart and everyone else is a Luddite. Got it. I did notice your buddy above bought a Ritter block. Why bother? He doesn’t need it right?

The only thing “proved” by this thread is you can be a cheap bastard and get lucky. Professionals don’t do that.

It also proves how amateur and silly some of you are. I never said you can’t do it. I said it’s compromised and it’s penny wise and pound foolish.
You assume you know everything, you keep proving you don’t.

The Ritter block I got is for a different car different build. if I told you how much power you’d **** your pants!

68 Valiant Post. I bet you got some BS to say about that too, right?

IMG_6477.jpeg
 
What it seems, until/if bolt on 350+ cfm heads become wildly available at the $2k price point and move us pass the 550+ hp sbm builds trick flow allows, above 600 hp NA will be a question mark, as for turbo builds looks promising but need a bunch more 1k + hp engines before I'd say it's proven.
 
My engine combo is in the 9 seconds tread. I know that race blocks are better, safer and make more power. But my conventional headed, stock LA block, low compression engine will push 2930 lbs 5.85 in the 8th and 9.35 in the 1/4 and when we had it apart it showed no signs of cap walk or any other problems. I do have a R3 block for when I step it up. But to be honest 142 mph is about as fast as I want to go. I'm just a braket racer and a 6.00 index racer. BTW I hate that we can't just share information and not get personal with each other.
 
Look in the mirror. What have you contributed? Nothing.
Oh! Like yourself. Bang on there pot stiring fool
Let me see you build 1k hp with a stock block and get it to live. I know I can do it.
Since you did it, show it!
The difference is I won’t do it. Just like the BBC in my shop, he will learn you can’t cut corners.
But you did it right? You just said you could. I see double talk! Hypocrite, hypocrite hypocrite !!!!!
Show it.
And let me know when you’ve actually had something you built on a dyno. My guess is you’ve never seen one.
Throwing **** to see what sticks again! Excellent line of babbling bullshit.

Pot stiring again
Keep going. You’re only looking dumber.
You’re just proving my point. Again.
Throwing **** and seeing what sticks while stirring the pot with nothing to constructively add.
You assume you know everything, you keep proving you don’t.

The Ritter block I got is for a different car different build. if I told you how much power you’d **** your pants!

68 Valiant Post. I bet you got some BS to say about that too, right?

View attachment 1716173469
I like your car. I also like your post. Once again proving what you said is absolutely true. Some people just like to stir the pot. They through **** from there mouth and see if it sticks.
 
Oh! Like yourself. Bang on there pot stiring fool

Since you did it, show it!

But you did it right? You just said you could. I see double talk! Hypocrite, hypocrite hypocrite !!!!!
Show it.

Throwing **** to see what sticks again! Excellent line of babbling bullshit.

Pot stiring again

You’re just proving my point. Again.
Throwing **** and seeing what sticks while stirring the pot with nothing to constructively add.

I like your car. I also like your post. Once again proving what you said is absolutely true. Some people just like to stir the pot. They through **** from there mouth and see if it sticks.

Ok clown.
 
My engine combo is in the 9 seconds tread. I know that race blocks are better, safer and make more power. But my conventional headed, stock LA block, low compression engine will push 2930 lbs 5.85 in the 8th and 9.35 in the 1/4 and when we had it apart it showed no signs of cap walk or any other problems. I do have a R3 block for when I step it up. But to be honest 142 mph is about as fast as I want to go. I'm just a braket racer and a 6.00 index racer.
Very cool.

BTW I hate that we can't just share information and not get personal with each other.

It’s the whole tone of the hypocrite pot stirrer that really sucks.
The delivery is shitty and condescending. Belittling someone on a comment where he perceives another’s wealth and makes it an issue while delivering the back handed insult completely uncalled for and made up out of thin air is ridiculous.

Then he has to the nerve to say I’m looking dumber.

LMAO!!!!!

He is such a tool and a bent broken one at that.
 
You assume you know everything, you keep proving you don’t.

The Ritter block I got is for a different car different build. if I told you how much power you’d **** your pants!

68 Valiant Post. I bet you got some BS to say about that too, right?

View attachment 1716173469

According to you there is no need for a Ritter block. That’s on you.

Nothing you can say or show me will make me **** my pants. Get over yourself.
 
Very cool.



It’s the whole tone of the hypocrite pot stirrer that really sucks.
The delivery is shitty and condescending. Belittling someone on a comment where he perceives another’s wealth and makes it an issue while delivering the back handed insult completely uncalled for and made up out of thin air is ridiculous.

Then he has to the nerve to say I’m looking dumber.

LMAO!!!!!

He is such a tool and a bent broken one at that.

What did I start? I gave my opinion and you started blowing smoke.

STFU and go away. You are a nobody in the real world. You are the YouTube type I was talking about in the other thread. A home garage poser with nothing.
 
According to you there is no need for a Ritter block. That’s on you.
Highlight where he said that.
Nothing you can say or show me will make me **** my pants.
You alllllreasy did and then again all over the board trying to doing it on others to see what sticks while completely polluting the thread with dribble and insinuations, while belittling others out of nowhere. You’re so full of **** your eyes are brown.
Get over yourself.
You need to get over yourself!
 
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