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Somebody willing to listen. What a concept!!!

Watch especially, the second half. 'hard acell

A large size palm nailer works pretty good!!!

In other words, do the normal alignment, set the toe last, and then if the wheel is not quite centered, "walk" the tie rods equal turns to move the wheel, and re-check the wheel center. You may have to test drive it around the block a couple of times to see where it "really" sits...

Sorry Rusty I was talking about the wheel not the pitman

Most these girls are supposed to have a master spline (EDIT for the steering wheel) and you cannot reclock them, and should not have to. You want the box centered, the wheel centered, and if it "turns" then walk the tie rods over to get things centered.

^^Also in addition to above, it is possible to reassemble the steering coupler 1/2 turn off, making you believe the thing is off center, because the wheel will be upside down.^^

Interesting!

Or harmonic balancer puller. EVERY body should have one, and you can buy them ANYWHERE. Be sure you check it out, as modern ones are likely to come with all or at least partial metric bolts. Buy a good one it will last you for life. Lyle, KD tool, a known brand name.

LOL I had not noticed that the bolt can not be reversed ? on the frame mount.

Greg, can you weld? Side to side movement on these can be reduced considerably by welding a piece of scrap across them, if room, both front and rear

I just have to say, I have NEVER seen a T bar come out at an angle like that. Do you have a shop manual? Somewhere in there is the car/ unibody dimensional points. I would be checking the car for dimensional "bent." And it's already been mentioned, are the bars bent? Other than...

I think you have something bent, as in from an accident, or rust, etc. May be the K, may be the frame horns, etc. I see no way that even without the factory bolts, you could get a K that far off just from slopping it back and forth in the mounting holes.

I did similar for the much hated screw on fan clutches

First we must know what the OP is talking about. I don't. You talking about the spindle nut, which adjusts the front bearings? Or the lower spindle bolts to the steering knuckle/ ball joint?

Well for one thing the 70/ later is column mounted ignition switch. I would think there is considerable difference, as 67/ later is a different body than 66/ earlier.

Used to be at the old Big block Dart site, but they changed it. hang on....... Here https://web.archive.org/web/20180531144810/http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/techindex.shtml

Nope. There are 4 pieces that matter. You must have the correct steering box to fit the pitman that matches the center link, and then the correct idler arm

READ YOUR factory service manual. If you do not have one, wander over to MyMopar.com and download one, for free Some of those got there because of the guys right here

I realize that the T bars, etc, can be a challenge to would be swaps etc. But the long lived almost nearly design unchanged front suspension, which, really, exists not only from the first A bodies but the larger cars as well, and in the case of A bodies, even just the 67-76...

Engineering. Engineer. Math. Maff is hard. Also realize this: Just because someone manufactured one and markets the thing does not mean it is strong enough. Or that it has even been engineered mostly "at all." It also does not mean that a given product can put up with street use...

I think you might had better read your answer? Through 72, small upper ball joints with FACTORY drum or disk, but not if you convert to 73/ later disc I think we pretty much decided that "maybe" 73 and later 9" drum factory use small joints, but "maybe" the 10 front drums use large...

I cannot name all the aftermarket a arms but the uppers are likely to be "big" ball joints for disk brakes. But if they did have the proper upper balls, the alignment range varies. Some of them are "set" with possibly additional caster built in, and some are more adjustable...

I think it is in the service manuals. MyMopar.com, they are free

AND DO NOT REV the engine. Turn it once or twice, shut it off, let it set. Air in the system gets "foamed up" and takes time to work out in the pump. Let it sit for 15 min or more, cycle the wheel again, SLOW.

Let me just say this: Whatever you do to end up with an anti-sway bar, I guarantee you it is worth the trouble

To put this another way, you want the spindle "leaned back" as far as you can get via the offset, so you want the hole in the rear bushing inboard towards the center of the car, and the front bushing hole outboard, towards "you"

^^I was going to say that but decided not to. Please just answer the question. The question which the OP asked^^

Any spring shop, in Spokane, it's been Pohl Spring for as long as I know of---has or makes spring clips. As someone said you do not want them tight, the springs must slide and move as they arch. The ones I got have no bolts, the "U" goes through the mate end and the tabs fold over

The only really important thing is bolt shank size and head diameter, and of course length which you can hacksaw shorter. you can grind them shorter if needed, and actually grind the heads smaller dia if needed. Just grind "lightly" as if you were sharpening a knife, so as not...