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I'd throw the standard 318 in with a few basic upgrades: Coil / Leads / NGK plugs Intake & 600cfm 4bbl Headers That should get the car running easily. You can even just use all the stock gear (the above is in order of preference) but I would definitely put a true 12v coil in it so you can...

Yeah I can understand the frustration as well - people chiming in with somewhat complicated and lengthy discussions on the subject at hand... but not necessarily related to the original question. This thread should have been over right about post 9 on page 1. - boingk

Yep, OE intakes are generally quite good for about 90% of situations. I would either get a secondhand Edelbrock Performer / Performer RPM or stick with the stock dual plane if you are worried about cost. I picked up a Crosswind back when they were a lot cheaper than they are now - about 1/3...

Depending on what deck height and dish the 408ci's pistons have you can get away with fairly stock heads. For example, if the pistons are at .025" under deck height and have a 5cc dish the 360's 72cc-ish heads will give about a 10:1 compression ratio with a standard .040" head gasket. A stock...

Sounds similar to the combo my father is running: 4.030", 4" stroke, 10.5:1 compression with alloy heads. She makes 522ft/lb of torque, with 502hp at about 4900rpm with a 220' @ .050 camshaft, with a huge reserve of torque from idle. Stays over 500hp through 5700rpm, and the torque curve is...

Shouldn't be... I'd be checking the oil level and changing to a 10W-40 or 50 ASAP. - boingk

You want your oil to be 200~220'F as that is the rated temp for its operating viscosity which is the second number in the oil spec - ie 20W-50. The engine builders would have specified a 10W-XX oil to protect things during startup. The lower first number will let you quickly build oil pressure...

What those guys said, 15 is fine. If it drives well and you're happy with it then don't worry!

Forgot link to the cam specs: 20-227-4 - Xtreme Hi-lift Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts

Hi mate, glad to hear the 360 build is going strong. I've done something similar but without stroking her to 408, just a .030" overbore with Keith Black hypereutectic flat-top pistons and a Scat cast crank, topped with ported and decked 318 heads that have 2.02" and 1.64" valves fitted...

Not one of these is it? Would certainly perform a similar function - atomising fuel more efficiently. - boingk

Nope, but a decent 408 will make 500hp and half a bar of boost on top of that kind of engine will push power to somewhere near 700hp if you can keep the charge cool enough. - boingk

Not to knock an awesome build, but why such gearing in something with probably about 700hp? Actually, why would you want 700hp on the street in the first place? 500hp is HUUUGE and more than enough to blow almost anything into the weeds *if* you have traction. I would go 408ci and not worry...

You make torque at the crankshaft, and this is a moment of force that is used to calculate horsepower. The more revs you have while making that torque the more horsepower you are making - you are able to do more work due to being able to exert that moment of torque more times per minute (more...

I'd go for a feeling rather than a number, and here's the way I'd go to get your goal: While engine is out of the car, check bore wear. If acceptable, reassemble with new bearings, timing chain, and camshaft of your choice - something mild in the 1500 ~ 5500rpm range or thereabouts. If the...

That's it! Its hard for anyone to really know what they want until they have tried it. If you get something that is a pig to drive under 3,000rpm, can't idle below 1500 and has nothing to its name other than a wicked idle, 'X00 hp' boast factor and a 20k pricetag... then you're probably going...

Yep, nothing too wild about a 10:1 SCR and moderate camshaft with iron heads... its all I've ever seen built by my friends. They are monsters off the bottom and roar through a very strong midrange to a pretty strong top, no doubt only limited by camshaft choice. Example: Ford 408ci block...

Watch this for some more insight:

The mechanical advance is generally governed by two weights attached to throw-out arms on the distributor shaft. As the RPM increases, the weights get thrown out further and dial in more advance. To dial in your advance, take the weights off (usually soldered on) and put new ones in their...

Am I the only sadist who wants to see exactly how much power you can wring out of a stock looking 2-barrel-topped engine? - boingk

Nice video mate, a 7 second 0-60 on that budget is definitely sharp. - boingk

To be honest at this level of performance they are far from holding you back. Get a quote for the heads to be re-valved and shaved a bit and you will then have a ballpark figure. Aftermarket heads (like Edelbrock RPM's) may flow well but are also relatively costly, and your engine combination...

In order of ease and expense: Thinner head gaskets for more compression. Try copper .021" ones. Shaved head for more compression. Bigger valves - 1.88/1.6 will wake her up. KB167 pistons to give a zero deck height and 10:1+ compression. Non-horsepower mods to give you better acceleration would...

Have you run the car with another engine/trans combo and it cruised okay? I would narrow it to the rear gear or transmission issues. You may need to pop the pan and check the band adjustments, then top with new fluid. Before you do that try and make sure that it is actually engaging third...

If you're chasing lifters, try looking at the Rhoads type of pump-up lifters. They are almost like retro-tech variable valve timing, and bleed off cam duration up to 3000~4000rpm before then giving you the full profile. This lets you have more vacuum and better torque down low and still have...

Second the vote for cats and running a downstream. While they can and do function well with only the upstream, this is not reflective of the capabilities of the system as a whole. The downstream sensor's primary function is to check the function of the catalyser but it also imparts data (at...

Cool info, I knew there were a few industrial application engines around but never really knew what they varied on. If its like anything else 'industrial' that I've tinkered with, it will go like no tomorrow when you spruce it up a bit! - boingk

Yep, that's the game. have it all thought out on paper before you lay a hand on your wallet to buy the parts. I've had my 360 build in my head for almost 3 years now and its only just coming to fruition. Its a budget build with high quality parts, sourced lightly used whenever I could find them...

...and the first head is done. The exhaust got more of a clean than an outright porting, with the 'speedbump' smoothed and reprofiled but not fully removed. The intakes have made do with only removing the upper protrusions (bottom of picture). Stock for contrast: Mild port match and...

Yep the Holley Street Avengers are a great 'out of the box' carb for the most part, I have one on a 245ci 'Hemi' straight-six in another Valiant and it loves it. Only thing I had to weak was the idle (a tiny bit) and the power valve - just one size earlier (higher vac) than standard ended up...