Head work questions

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woods

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I'm building a low compression 360. 8.5-9.0 compression.
I plan on shaving /milling the heads 30 thousandths. Heads are open chamber 3769974 heads
I'm wondering if I will have any issues with the intake sealing correctly.
Would it be better to remove the dowels in the top of the block and use RTV instead of the end gaskets? Anything else?
Also, I will be installing Comp Cams 901-16 springs. It looks like I will need to replace the exhaust spring retainers. Can I get away with using the stock intake spring retainers?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ken
 
Others will have their opinion, but....
1). at .030 you will have no issues. I have shaved heads .040 and never had an issue. Bolt holes actually lined up better on the intake to heads. I use Fel Pro gaskets which seal really well. Actually, if your removing the factory gaskets and going with over the counter Fel pros, you'll need to remove about .030 just to make up the difference of the gasket thickness.
2). If your intake has the holes for the dowels, then you can leave the dowels in the block.
3). I've done both ways as far as end gaskets or just RTV.
4). I would use the eddy springs. Works perfect with factory retainers, and they are 48 bucks (if I remember correctly on price). they are about the same rating as new factory 340 springs.
 
The ratio of of chamber side cut to intake face cut is: for every .010 off chamber face, remove .0095 off intake face.

Yes you can remove the dowels and just use RTV.

Any stock retainer with the correct keepers for the valve will work OK.

Good luck!!
 
Ken;

Remove the dowels on the China walls. Where the intake sits on the block. RTV is my choice, the end gaskets are your call. Ether they fit and work or they don't.
On the retainer issue, the stock units in the exhaust side could be the rotor retainers. Toss them aside. IMO, for the cost of new retainers and locks, it's cheap cheap cheap, for an easy correct fit.
As far as springs go, I would have ordered the Comp springs with the cam. Cam, lifters, springs, retainers and locks come in a package deal from Comp Cams. It also includes a timing chain.

If there is a bolt hole misalignment on the intake to head, you can just hit out the bolt holes. A die grinder would do the trick. Use Sealent on the bolts. Not RTV but thread sealer/sealant. Thinner gaskets are possible if need be.
 
Thanks for the quick responses.
Should have mentioned I am going with Mr Gasket 028 head gaskets and factory 4 barrel intake
I will be running a Lunati 60402 cam. I already have the comp cam springs
And the exhaust retainers are the rotators so I will swap them out
 
woods said:
Thanks for the quick responses.
Should have mentioned I am going with Mr Gasket 028 head gaskets and factory 4 barrel intake
I will be running a Lunati 60402 cam. I already have the comp cam springs
And the exhaust retainers are the rotators so I will swap them out
Click to expand...

Good cam choice I've run 3 different "voodoo cams" with excellent results..as for sealant in place of the end gaskets I like "the right stuff" the gray one:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Thanks, I'll pick up some.
I am cleaning up the bowls and gasket matching the heads.
I'm still debating staying with the 1.88 intake valves or moving up to 2.02s
I'm not sure if I will see much of an advantage going with the larger valves.
I will be running long tube headers and dual 2 1/2 exhaust
 
.030" is about the limit before you have to start fiddling to make it all work together. You will need to measure for and order custom pushrods to get the right lifter preload too.
 
woods said:
Thanks for the quick responses.
Should have mentioned I am going with Mr Gasket 028 head gaskets and factory 4 barrel intake
I will be running a Lunati 60402 cam. I already have the comp cam springs
And the exhaust retainers are the rotators so I will swap them out
Click to expand...

That cam pushes the Crane 901's to their limit IIRC. I think the max lift for those springs is .490". They coil bind at 1.10" That cam also has some real steep ramps for their seat pressure.

The recommended spring is a Lunati 73949 dual valve spring. Dual Valve Spring W/ Damper - 1.440" O.D., .950" Coil Bind, 363 Lbs./In. Spring Rate (Qty: 1) - Lunati Power

Here is the Lunati 60402 cam card. Cam Spec Card :: Lunati Power

Comp valve spring specs. COMP Cams® - Specialty Valve Springs
 
Last edited:
T-N-T said:
That cam pushes the Crane 901's to their limit IIRC. I think the max lift for those springs is .490". They coil bind at 1.10" That cam also has some real steep ramps for their seat pressure.

The recommended spring is a Lunati 73949 dual valve spring. Dual Valve Spring W/ Damper - 1.440" O.D., .950" Coil Bind, 363 Lbs./In. Spring Rate (Qty: 1) - Lunati Power

Here is the Lunati 60402 cam card. Cam Spec Card :: Lunati Power

Comp valve spring specs. COMP Cams® - Specialty Valve Springs
Click to expand...


Some reason I was thinking the Comp springs would work for that cam.
Anyone know if I need to do any work to the heads to fit the Lunati dual springs?
 
It looks like the Comp Cams 942 springs have worked well with this cam.
Looks like I will be doing some more research
 
Before you bolt the heads down...sit the intake manifold on the heads with a gasket and see if the holes line up......
 
What is up with the Lunati springs?
They don't have any?
 
rumblefish360 said:
What is up with the Lunati springs?
They don't have any?
Click to expand...
It seems that every project that I ever have has a tight budget and the comp springs are less than half the price of the Lunati springs. It looks like I shouldn't have to machine down the guides with the comp springs and the Lunati springs won't work without head work. Maybe I'm wrong
 
woods said:
It looks like the Comp Cams 942 springs have worked well with this cam.
Looks like I will be doing some more research
Click to expand...

Comp 942 springs have an installed height of 1.7" with coil bind at 1.125. Stock installed spring height is 1.65". I believe Hughes 1110 will fit the bill and are available from someone else here on the site at a better price.
 
T-N-T said:
Comp 942 springs have an installed height of 1.7" with coil bind at 1.125. Stock installed spring height is 1.65". I believe Hughes 1110 will fit the bill and are available from someone else here on the site at a better price.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I didn't know it would be so difficult picking correct parts for this thing.
I did a search and came up empty on a Hughes retailer
 
That's because;

1; you claim no money for a project so you try and mix and match parts.

2; You actually have the money but refuse to save for it and spend on mix and match parts.

3; This hobby is expensive no matter what you do. Saving $100 on spring or this and that equals 2 gas tanks filled?
Over the long run, it's peanuts.

Here is a tip for mixing and matching springs. Go to the Lunati web site or open up there catolog and search for your cam, find the soring(s) recommended for your cam and research there rates, installed heights and coil bind specs.

Then you can look through other places and view there specs to find a compatable Spring.

Happy hunting!
 
rumblefish360 said:
That's because;

1; you claim no money for a project so you try and mix and match parts.

2; You actually have the money but refuse to save for it and spend on mix and match parts.

3; This hobby is expensive no matter what you do. Saving $100 on spring or this and that equals 2 gas tanks filled?
Over the long run, it's peanuts.

Here is a tip for mixing and matching springs. Go to the Lunati web site or open up there catolog and search for your cam, find the soring(s) recommended for your cam and research there rates, installed heights and coil bind specs.

Then you can look through other places and view there specs to find a compatable Spring.

Happy hunting!
Click to expand...
I appreciate your help and sarcasm.
I'm 53 years old and have been wrenching for most of my life. Most engine builds have been to stock specifications and repairs.
I have a budget for the car. The engine, transmission and reared will be rebuilt when I'm done and I know the little things will add up quickly so I need to save where I can
 
Sorry, don't mean to be a prick.
I understand.
 
rumblefish360 said:
...mix and match parts.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's the game. have it all thought out on paper before you lay a hand on your wallet to buy the parts.

I've had my 360 build in my head for almost 3 years now and its only just coming to fruition. Its a budget build with high quality parts, sourced lightly used whenever I could find them cheaply.

Then there is the 'no budget' 318 build... as in it did not have ANY money spent other than gaskets and bearings. Free block/rods/pistons/heads, used carby from the shop bin... you get the picture.

Always have the best gameplan you can. If you find yourself needing to ask advice for parts, try and make sure its not because you already have other parts depending on it.

- boingk
 
1.88 is fine, 2.02 would work as well. have a 3 angle valve job done, Blend the bottom cut into the bowl. Makes a nice improvement in flow without worry about a Flow Bench to keep them all even.
Don't grind on the bottom of the bowl or floor of the Exhausted port for any reason!
 
Just buy the correct Lunati springs for the cam and be done with it. Valve train isn't something to mess around with. Do it right or expect failure. Is your "budget" big enough to do it twice?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Just buy the correct Lunati springs for the cam and be done with it. Valve train isn't something to mess around with. Do it right or expect failure. Is your "budget" big enough to do it twice?
Click to expand...
That's what I keep going back to.
All of my projects throughout the years have been built with that plan. I will just have to deal with it. I will sleep better knowing it is right.
 
woods said:
That's what I keep going back to.
All of my projects throughout the years have been built with that plan. I will just have to deal with it. I will sleep better knowing it is right.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Also, you should use the correct retainers and valve locks as well. If you have ever seen how old retainers crack around the valve hole and how valve locks wear the ridges,you will never skimp there again.

There are some places you can cut corners, but the hardware that keeps the valves hangin in the heads shouldn't be one of them.
 
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