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The brass block is really a distribution block. The proportioning is done with wheel cylinder / caliper piston sizing. When I do a conversion I use the distribution block from the disc car just because I have it but one time used the drum distribution block to see and the brakes worked fine and...

No wonder you can't stop. Trying to stop 14 foot rims is pretty tall order for any brake system. Just fooling around, I do the same thing with my key board when it comes to " and ' Chuck

All pre '73 spindles, 9" & 10" drum and disc brake use the same upper and lower control arms. The lower ball joints are different. You just match the ball joint to the spindle that you are using. Chuck

It will be easier to find LBP disc stuff than SBP stuff. Of course the larger 1/2" studs are stronger than 7/16" studs but the smaller studs are not a problem with our cars. My Buick GS Stage-1's I used to own had 7/16" studs and never broke one of them. Chuck

I got mine from rockauto.com online. $33.79ea Chuck

Dave, this is the one thing I hate about talking in writing, it is very easy to be miss-understood. What I meant was that there isn't really any issue converting 9" drum spindles to disc brakes. I didn't mean 9" drums were fine. Chuck

There is a bzillion cars running around with the 9" drums and hasn't been an issue so far. I wouldn't worry about it unless someone was going to do some road racing or something. Chuck

Wilwood makes a kit that works with the 9" drum spindle. Chuck

I know the UC arms on the B-body Cordoba are different than an A-body. I am unsure if the F-body or J-body Cordoba are the same as the A-body. Chuck

Toyota made a Hilux pickup years ago. In Australia it may mean something else. Like the Mopar Utes. Chuck

I haven't found any difference between the manual disc and manual drum pushrod. They look the same to me. Chuck

A proportioning valve is basically a flow control valve. When bleeding you want to fully open it. Chuck.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=20544&highlight=mustang+hub This should do it. DW, changed jobs in March and working long hours Chuck

There is someone here on this site that did a KH Mustang hub/rotor conversion. It required some machining of the hub to fit on the spindle but it did work. Chuck

'73 up use the larger ball joint regardless if it is disc or drum. Chuck

I am using the hose with the "T" attached on my cars, but here is the style you are looking for on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-Rear-Axle-Brake-Block-Vented-Bolt-8-3-4-Dana-60_W0QQitemZ330215622175QQihZ014QQcategoryZ10076QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Chuck

It may bolt on and it may work but, they list a different part number for manual and power brake master cylinders. So there is some difference in them. Chuck

The brakes are only as good as were the tire meets the road. Just like with engines, brakes and suspension need a balanced combination of parts. Throwing a big cam in a stock motor doesn't do much good. Same thing with big brakes and stock sized tires, doesn't do much good. Chuck

I have cars with both setups. I haven't weighed them so I can't tell you which on is lighter. As far as stopping I can't tell any difference between the two cars when I drive then. I would suspect the later setup is a little stronger only because of the larger upper ball joint. Chuck

Rednesss, Brake fluid won't dissolve teflon tape. In hydraulic systems it is recommended that liquid thread sealers be used because of the chance of a piece of tape getting lodged in an orfice. Being a brake system is basically a hydraulic system I would treat it the same way. Lot's of people...

Yep, I have a '75 Scamp parts car that is small bolt drums. Chuck

What you could do since you say you have all of the lines for the dual system master cylinder is try and cancel the order for the stock single and order a '75 Plymouth Duster drum/drum master cylinder and use that until you are ready to go disc. This way you will have all the lines ready for...

No, you need to use a drum brake master cylinder. Chuck

You will have to swap your backing plates and drums over to the 2 1/2" stuff. Yukon axles have the 2.36" flange offset like the 4.5" bolt pattern cars. A 4" bolt pattern 8 3/4 has a different flange offset (it is about 2") so your brake stuff won't work. Because of this different flange...

Yes, you need the 4.5" stuff. The 4" stuff has a different axle flange offset. all of the 4.5" 10" brake stuff is the same width. You could put 11" stuff on your car but I think it is overkill even though really there is no such thing as to much braking. Chuck

To flare lines you will need a double flaring tool. Chuck

If you redrill the axles just have the new drums redrilled also. If you go to an aftermarket axle (Yukons are the cheapest) then you will just use any 8 1/4, 9 1/4, 7 1/4 or 8 3/4" 4.5" brake hardware. Yukon A-body replacement axles have the flange offset the same as the "regular" rears. Yes...

A Duster is technically a Valiant so the '60-'74 Valiant kit is the right kit for your Duster. You will see this a lot in application guides that they don't list the Duster seperate and only list the Valiant. Demon guys have the same problem in they buy the Dart application stuff. Chuck

Off of the '75 you will need everything including the upper control arms. You will also need the combo valve and I would also save the brake lines also just in case there is a difference there. You can use your existing lower control arms but, if the '75 has a sway bar you will want the lower...

The booster can go bad in both directions, either a hard pedal or non-releasing/slow releasing brakes. Chuck