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If you are able, return them and contact "http://www.inlinetube.com/" you can pretty much bank on their stuff working, if you have OTHER than stock applications, measure them for optimal length and inline will make them up for you.... you also have a choice in regular brake lines of steel or...

huh huh huh huh she said PUMP the brakes

ALSO..... the tube does not NEED to be in a loop d loop...you can go straight across from the link to the cylinder

FedHill sells a very flexable alloy brake line.... which I think is sold at autozone or O' Riellys..... this tubing can be shaped with your fingers and is likely less expensive than inline....BUT you will have to create your own double flares http://store.fedhillusa.com/

have you tried "inline tube" in Michigan?....if they dont have it already they will make it for you......

Ps.....maybe

WELL "FAULTY" kinda means that there does not need to be much use to initiate catastrophic failure........ if the spring that was installed from the re-builder is a substandard spring.....just like a tootsie pop you get ONLY so many licks.......so to answer your question YES simply pushing the...

well you may have a few issues going on...1. the powder coating may have blocked something or is interfering with your cylinder/piston movement. 2. you could have a blocked line or flex line. 3. if you used a PROP valve for front disk/rear drum brakes and you have all drum brakes, you have the...

YA I know....**** does happen ...but that is the life of a "restorer"..... ya either love it or hate it....and with 30 + year old stuff, that crap is every day stuff...part of the "process", goes with the territory...lay of the land....LMAO just smile and fix it, thats why your there!

sorry got this late....pressed in then welded, it was/is an assembly, removing them is a total pain ...but you did it correctly after you tried the wrong way...and you didn't set it on fire LOLOLOL

yepperz!!!! NOW that you have a NEWLY closed system again....and your MC is meeting with Proper and full hydraulic pressure...NOW the MC shows itself as yet another in a "string " of problems. Brakes for me are kinda like a game of domino's...you touch any part of them and you might as well...

I use these folks all the time....they have produced some very RARE stuff as a matter of course..... check them out http://unitedautopartspart1.liveonatt.com/

SOmeone sent me a PM and explained what is going on...didnt catch it in the thread.... OK so if you want to change the studs...yes you can do it at home...some of the methods mentioned will work. The optimal way is to have them properly press fit in and re-swedged...typically only a shop with...

Dixie...THATS because they are NOT supposed to come off like the rears!! The drum piece is swedged or peened onto the hub for a REASON!... having them together isn't a problem it's part of HOW front brakes are MADE. Unless there is a very compelling REASON to separate them it is not typically...

INTERESTING that the initial question of WHY would anyone want to do that has yet to be answered....... Unless there is a huge issue with either the drum component or the hub component why would anyone separate them? WHat exactly is the issue you are trying to solve by crackin the hub/drum assy

ringing vibration ...... unless you are beating the living daylights out of your car/brakes, your braking will not be significantly or noticeably affected. For the purists YES it does dampen vibration and that can affect braking as noticed by the drivers on the test tracks who beat on cars for...

THANK YOU GENTLEMEN..... I have used this info and talked to the parts store owner .... WHO...propmtly showed the idiot how to read the parts book for the 18th time and WHOOP...out popped a 10 inch 4 inch bolt circle 1 3/4 drum, shoes, wheel cyl, hardwre..... IMAGINE THAT!!! MERRY CHRISTMAS...

Agree with Goody....UNLESS you are noticing any pull to either side, then they might be adjusted too tight on that side OR draggin for some reason

Howdy all been a while!!! Just picked up a 8.75 posi from a 340 duster for my 66 cuda. Parts stores are telling me that Mopar did not use a 10 inch drum with the 4 inch bolt circle axles..... I think they did on the 340 cars.... I need to find the 10 inch dia 4 in bolt circle drums any...