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The orange boxes are known for having issue. Short life if they even work right about of the package. The Chrome box is fine for a street car but I would think the quality is the same as the orange box.

73 Just has the buzzer. It doesnt kill the ignition if your not wearing the belt.

I think your best bet is a Petronix. Next would be use a Mopar electronic dist, and hide the box under the dash.

Wish you live in CT. Ive been looking for a good 12 volt for mt shop for 3 years.

I never ran one.

For the record, Doug actually does have proof

The RTeng. link is no good and theres nothing on the site about ammeters anymore

My car is a 73 so the wires for the ammeter are in their own harness. Right now there is no fusible link in that harness just the 2 wire (red/black) how ever the wiring under the hood is so hacked it may have had one. There is a fuseable link coming off the fusebox but none right off the ammeter

Im planning on bypassing the ammeter gauge on my Duster. Its a 73. Im going to gut a Autometer Voltmeter to replace it. Im pretty sure it will fit in the cluster. So the question is when I by pass it do I just have to run the wiring from the Alt. to the starter relay ?

I think you would be surprised how many people dont post for sometime after signing up. No hard feelings here. back on subject.

Spammer dont sign up with names related to Mopars. I did notice a few other names listed as not being allowed on your web site too. Its not easy being fair and making everyone happy is it. Wait till you have 30,000 members to please. Tell the guys Im not butt hurt at all. Though if your...

Darn, They banned me. I didnt even get to say hello. So much for being fair to everyone unlike fabo. :wack:

Sorry, Its brown on my 73.

POS coil wire is brown

Thats pretty common with old Mopars. They dont charge well at idle. You can upgrade to a GM alt or later Chrysler Denso style alt. Also bypassing the ammeter gauge helps. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

The top picture that you have is the ECU unit. Thats your ignition box. The bottom pictures are the voltage regulators. You want the one on the right

No, they are wrapped together and the wires are most likely in different locations of the plug. Plus no BB 73 Dart Sports so wire lengths would be off. The correct harness is only $150 and the Dart Sport harness is $250

check the fusible link and the ammeter gauge.

The Dart Sport harness would be totally different. The 73 dart Sport Harness is for just the engine with a separate light harness. The 69 Dart harness is both lights and engine. Y/O sells a modified harness that will use the later voltage regulator, alternator and electronic ignition. Part #...

Why ? He has a 69 Dart. Just get one for a 68 Dart 383

Are you looking for a stock harness or an aftermarket harness ? The Y/O harness are really nice. Ive used 3 of them and will buy another for my Duster.

I believe 73 would be a braided ground strap. It would go from the back of the passenger side head to the firewall above the pinch weld, I know this is the wrong wire but I believe its in the correct location

Just recurve a stock unit. Theres not going to be any power difference between a stock unit and a $300 MSD

Dave Dudek claims 15hp on the top end with his Pure Stock HEMI R/T over the chrome box. Thats a Drag strip test not dyno.

You need to buy a test light. There should be some extra spots on the back of the fuse box you can run a wire to also.

yellow

Last I heard they werent available and were being rediesigned

I bought a set of the orange Mopar wires for my Duster and they are to short. Im going with Firecore next time. Ive also had good luck with the MSD 8.5s and the accell 8.8s and both come in black. buy the crimp tool and get the universal sets if you cant find the pre made sets..

yes, its the engine/forward light harness.

Part # HU2 $259. for 318-340s. No slant 6 listed.