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Use this, www.searchtempest.com It searches ALL craigslist by the distance you allow from your zip.

Actually the 400 has a bigger bore but less stroke. Different beast altogether imo!

Wow! Here it is $55 to cut and $55 to balance. $300 will get me a brand new driveshaft! BTW, My Cuda has a driveshaft 45 3/4 inches from center of the u-joint caps. Its a 400/727/suregrip

Mine looked just like that! I knocked a bushing in that was included with the Ram clutch and it worked fine. No other drilling required. I just used a large bolt and nut with a flat washer and a deadblow hammer. DONE! As far as the Oil Passage! Your choice! I preferred to keep the oil pressure...

Nice! I have almost the same thing but setup for turbo. I have a bit larger Scott Brown cam though. Good torque numbers too. 1975 400 .060 over, Stock forged crank, Diamond custom pistons, Eagle H-beam w/L19 bolts, 440Source Girdle all Balanced. Mildly ported 906's 2.14/1.80 stock valvetrain...

I agree, no need to drill the crank. Just pick up a pilot bearing. Most clutch kits come with the correct pilot bearing though. If you got a pic post it!

That is a normal ring gap for most ring sets. I know that the Hyperutectic pistons swell upon warmup. They are real noisey when cold. The only thing I can think of is ring "Butting". I did however fid this for ya, http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=32

X2! You still have the pan off I would pull one rod and check ring gaps which should be around .016 to .018. Go ahead and check the rod bearing clearances as well. It will only cost you a few bucks but in the end could save you several hundred. Since there are no heads on it I would also...

My Diamond pistons are stamped .060 on the bottom including the part#.

Sorry! Doublepost. Stupid IE9 locked up

There is a 40 stamped on the bottom of the piston in the pic so I would assume .040 over bore. Everything looks to be balanced due to the drill marks under the pistons. I agree they are below deck. I'm thinking around 8.6:1 with a Felpro Blue. FYI, my 400 is 0-deck with notched flat tops...

Here is one, http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=164038

Kim is right! The 187 pan is what you will need. I got a 7qt from KMJ and had to notch it for the idler arm clearance. I have seen several in the classified forums for around $75....

X2 There is NO difference in blocks other than a cam change! There are also some blocks stamped with a Iron cross. These were thought to be something special. Not, just has different size main and rod bearings. Some fool come to me wanting $1500 for a block with this Iron cross. I told him to...

Yep its a 318 k-frame. You can cut the mounts and move them rearward per bigblockdart.com and use c-body B mounts. Mine is a Direct Connection piece but it is done just like that. If you hit the search at the top of the page you can find a direct link to the thread!

Everything but machine work. Its a Love/Hate relationship! LoL!

Excellent piece If I may say!! Its went up $100 since I got mine.. http://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com/cart2/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=33

No sir, it had another set of factory inner wheelwells welded to the inside of the originals. Had "HUGE" 33/21.5x15 M/T tires on a Dana 60. 500 inch 440 2 4's and a modded 727 w/3000 stall. Believe it or not I broke 4 727 cases and 1 driveshaft on the street I assume due to the large tires. Was...

The only real issue in my truck was the vacuum booster hit the valvecover. Had to use a booster from a 70's LTD.

Umm, you can put a orfice in the oil channels that runs up each side of the block in the lifter galley from the cam journal through the head. Many folks have done this. this stop the crank from getting robbed of oil pressure on that main.

Cheap insurance!! My 67 Cuda had cracked the cowl area near the bottom of the windshield on both factory seams!

There should be raised bosses on the underside of the valvecovers. Drill at tap them or use self tapping screws. Cut a piece of sheetmetal to fit and drill the same holes and call it done...

Um, inside the fenderwell behind the wheel??

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/Products.html

I have seen personally issues with Voodoo cams. Chivy grinds in a Mopar?? Your choice though. I would use the 484 purpleshaft from Mopar. I had good luck with them outside of shearing #7 intake lobe on 2... As far as a "Cop" block?? No real difference in any other block. I did get a 73 Fury...

Nope, but they are Damn pricey! Can't understand why there is such a price difference between the "Other" brands and Mopars. Doesn't take any additional work to produce these things.. Pisses me off! I guess I am cheap but Damn!! Your choice as far as Hyd. vs Mech.. I have used Comps with...

Ummm, All my B and RB were internally balanced.

I had to use a 10.5, the 11 hit the trans tunnel.

No notch on mine. Then again I have the DC K-frame w/spool mounts. Engine does sit a bit higher though. No interference with the steering. Confirmed that during mockup.