Search results for query: *

i understand - but the rubber fit is not considered a pressed fit and actually has more room to move fore and aft.

I read that before - that the poly does not locate the LCA ... This image shows the opposite - the poly has a lip that seats it completely in the shell - I did have to get new pins, and these are just suspension pieces that have slots to tighten the pin nuts on - but the setup works great...

you dont lube them regularly - you lube them correctly the first time and your done. I've had several sets and never had a problem with squeaks or anything coming loose. you know the rubber mating surface is smaller then the poly right? so technically if and when the rubber fails, the LCA...

since the rubber does not rotate, they tear, of you put the suspension through it's paces. That is the reason you must have the weight of the car on them before you are supposed to torque them down. The static position of the car is now the middle of the rubber bushings travel. The poly will...

yes

the poly is lubed up so it slips, the flat is there to get the proper torque on the LCA pivot shaft nut maybe with the original rubber, but my last ones were shot after 12 years... i dont know if its the new junk rubber they are making or what - but all the poly was fine - but the rubber...

the only thing they are missing is a flat to hold them during assembly. if you look at the attached pic I had put up the new ones JS has come with a flat to put a wrench on during installation.

and you think the smaller rubber bushing ( that is not bonded to the shell ) will hold it all in perfect alignment?? I dont know what poly ones you used, but the ones I put in ( just suspension ) have a mushroom type top that eliminates all type of fore / aft movement when installed. it cannot...

I first put my car on the road in 1997 - I rebuilt the front end at that time and had all poly except for the LCA's 12 years later i rebuilt it again - guess what was the only bushings showing wear? the rubber LCA's! I went this time with a just suspension pivot shaft, since it's od matches...

to see if the bushings are the problem - spray with WD first

spray wd 40 at the bushings ( most likely UCA's) rubber or poly?

If I were going for an UCA - it would be RMS!

I agree.... except for poly bushings... I worte this a few years ago and as long as your not going to road courses it would be fine for a guy on a budget. http://editions.amospublishing.com/MPRE/Default.aspx?d=20091101&pagenum=40

thanks man!

look out for? the only think joe needed when he swapped the RMS ( front ) over was brake fluid. everything else was in the kit - the directions were clear and exact. no questions at all.

just picked up a set for my 66 cuda - the rubber mounts are twice as thick as later a bodies so they sag more - and since I am switching to TTI;s i'll need the engine to stay put with 1" bars that thread the needle through them TTI's

the bushings in general are not designed to " absorb suspension impact" they are there to articulate the suspension, & make it travel, so the suspension can do its job and move to absorb suspension impact. there are pros and cons to both, but after having poly for a bunch of years now i'll...

http://editions.amospublishing.com/mpre/invitation.ashx?d=20091101&page1=40&page2=41&f=1&f=1&id=3bc1baf0-1a4c-4b77-b732-1fb3aec74362 Check this link out - as it covers most of what your asking in the " alignment 101" section.

corvette upper control arm - made of aluminum

alot of you guys are over engineering this - the ball joint cup is threaded - you cant weld it in there. all you need is a good weld - the butt weld is fine - as long as there is penetration - even stick welding it would yield more strength then you need in that location. the bottom line is...

I have to disagree with this reasoning... Adjustable UCA's give you more caster - caster equals more straight line stability especially at high speeds. so anyone going above 45 mph will benefit from the added caster of an adjustable UCA, or as much positive caster you can get out of a stock...

there is no penetration on the tube at the weld...!

I have KYB's and SS springs - they fit fine I got my last set from Just suspension when I did my front end rebuild. Before that I used Summit or Jegs

Pete - you making it to NJMSP Monday?

they should have locknuts on them and you should not have to torque them

Mopar Enthusiast recently had a front end rebuild - www.moparenthusiast.com it takes a second to register, and its free to view online - it takes you through the entire process, and then the alignment. Its in the November 09 issue - starts on page 41

i was skeptical about them till i drove them for the first time - they are alot better ride wise then I was expecting - not harsh at all - seems to prove that the mopars were always undersprung from the factory...

that offset is there when you spin the bar, also - so its there if its front or back... Call Just suspension yourself if you are unsure, but they will tell you the same thing they told me when I called PS - you will love the 1" bars for a driver - I know I do!

I just went from /6 bars to 1" just suspension bars. WOW! I never knew how much i was bottoming out... till i went with 1" bars... i lost a little weight transfer at the track, but driving is alot more fun, especially around corners!

it really depends on your tires, wheels and intended usage to fine tune the alignment, but i agree that you need to take what the computer says for a 72 duster and thrown them in the trash! I run a 17" wheel with a 225/45 tire on it - i do alot of highway . high speed driving, (not road...