Search results for query: *

Anyone else have this issue. 360 with 273 exhaust manifolds. 5&7 plug wires keep burning.

Still confused, discussed this in parts wanted previously when I thought I didn't have the proper mounts. Couple guys posted pictures and diagrams for modifying the left or driver side 273/318 mount for a 360. I've now got the motor on the k frame. The driver side mount fits all three bolts but...

I did my brothers in the middle of winter outside. Was much younger then but not a bad job. I didn't take the radiator out and as I remember had plenty of room.

Modify oiling system! I had a 70 AMX (in 73) that I spun main bearing in consistently even with oiling mods done. Ran fantastic but couldn't keep it together. Maybe somebody finally figured it out.

I was just wondering about those as well. Probably Bolt them back on just because I have them.

I have these, alternator and power steering off an early 70's 318, don't have anything for air and don't know if it alters these brackets.

I'm in the process of sorting my brackets and do believe I have extra of the power steering pump (still attached to the pump) and alternator, I'll check later today and let you know.

I picked up a 64 Falcon 289 back in the '70's that had a wiped lobe on the cam. I went to a friends wrecking yard and pulled a cam out of another motor and stuck it in mine and ran it without problems for 2 years before I sold it. You need someone to really look at it and diagnose it all the way...

Pretty blurry..is that a screw stuck in the valve?

Why did you take them off in the first place???

If the valve seals were replaced, it sounds like the rings haven't seated. It should have at least been honed to take any polish out of the cylinders and allow the new rings to bite. I bought a 67 Honda 350 Dream that the engine was just rebuilt and it was smoking from start up and was run about...

The post says it still has the 2bbl, but it does sound like a carburator issue whether its too much air and not enough fuel or too much fuel and not enough air..seems it would need the carb to go with that free flowing exhaust. Hang a Holley two bbl on it and it'll probably be OK or go to a...

So what's the verdict, we haven't heard anything in a few days now..

The car doesn't necessarily need to be running to get an index. You can crank it over and the fuel pump will either quit pushing fuel when the needle closes or it will flood over. This however is dangerous as any spilled gas will only need a spark to ignite. I would remove the bowls and visually...

That's where I was headed Dave, just didn't have the time to spell it out...good job! Dave

Sounds like more of a fuel issue, it has spark as it does start...carb could be blocked at the needle and not getting enough fuel, the filter could be blocked and restricting flow, or the needle could be stuck and flooding. What carb is on it??

I don't have a reference book handy but IIRC the poits should be around .17mm...

You mention good compression when running..??? Have you done a compression check? Sounds more like a head gasket to me...doesn't explain the ticking which could be the timing chain hitting the cover or an exhaust leak which would/could be different after reinstalling the motor. You didn't...

A poly does fit..I put one in a 65 Dart...took a while to find the right parts, mounts, manifolds and I don't remember what else, but it went in with no cutting.

I'd have to ask WHY?...I replaced an LA with a Poly once and it was a PIA..motor mounts, exhaust rework, just I few I recall...it was in 1973 that I did it and only because I was a Chevy guy and didn't know any better.

Have you checked the level on the carb float? Even with the carb rebuilt this could need a little adjusting...

Spray the carb / accelerator linkage with PB Blaster or something similar and make sure the carb return spring is in good shape. My 66 idled fast and here it was the carb was gummed up.

If you were to ask your question on www.pennmustangs.com I'm sure you would get an answer. Seems to be alot of knowledgeable people there.

Have to look and see if they make a degree wheel that would bolt to and be corrected from the crank??? or could you adapt yours to the crank/balancer, rig a pointer....might get you in the ballpark..

With a dial indicator you would be able to check the total lift, for the duration you'll need a degree wheel. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, it's been alot of years. Dave

Had the same thing on my F150, 4.6 the right rear plug blew out..started with a tapping noise, almost like an exhaust leak. I had mine heilcoiled by a local guy, I think he charged me $ 45. where the Ford boys wanted $65 an hour and estimated about 5 hours. Ran the truck to 250,000. I also had a...

I would say there is a difference due to the speed and efficiency of the spark. I doubt that it would be to the point of being noticeable, but it's right up there with gasket matching, plug indexing, maybe not totally noticeable improvements but would probably show something under a controlled...

Everytime I ever tried bolt-ons, was either the bottom end or the valve train that let go.

I didn't say it shouldn't be checked, just said it may simply be condensation . I agree with your anaolgy on oiling with the exception that the normal/optimum operating temp of engine oil is 180 to 210...temps above this cause the oil to break down and loose viscocity and therefore loose it...

i disagree that condensation would definately be totally evaporated in 150 mile trip. As he said it was "white gunk" which is the oil and water mixed which would slow the evaporation. I've chased the same problem only to conjecture it was condensation since everything else was fine. I used to...