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Thanks. In the research that I have done, I've seen both offered. Wasn't sure if that was legit or not.

I have a member interested in some horns I have up for sale. I have both sparton and prestolite models available. Can someone tell me the correct brand for his 69' Barracuda? Thanks in advance!

No, they are both keyed. There is a protruding "dimple" on the firewall that I thought fit into the open slot on the BR, putting the open slot towards the passenger side. This put the connectors upside-down and on the wrong ends of the BR. Does this make me the "fool" in their "fool proof"...

Yeah....it was a real "duh" moment. Lol

So I flipped the ballast....with the open notch on the resistor towards the driver side , brown wire in the top right position, the car starts instantly. ....it appears the ballast was installed 180° out...lol I really appreciate all of the input from everyone. Thanks alot. It seemed to not...

I checked the resistance on both resistors I have and they were the same. 5.0 and 1.2 on both.

OK, probed all poles of the ballast in start and run position. Blue, turquoise/yellow(these two have a black jumper) and green/red all go from bright to dim: run to start brown goes dim to bright: run to start. Looking at the schematic, my ballast resistor appears to be upside down....lol I'll...

It's the dual ballast, I've got another dual and a single to try, I just have to find em! With a test light I have a dim bulb at coil + With the key in the on position and bright bulb during cranking

Thanks alot guys! I'll check it out when I get home, just had to go check out a toooo good to be true deal! I just picked up a fresh 360 block, set of j heads with 2.02s, set of isky springs new in the box, scat 408 stroker kit with rings and bearings new in box, oil pump, new holley fuel pump...

Just a quick check of that bulkhead connector revealed a little signs of discoloration. I'll swap the ballast and check the coil while cranking and report back. thanks for the tips guys!

Hi guys, 73 Duster, 360 , stock dizzy, chrome box. Flame thrower coil. I can crank and crank but it doesn't start till I release the key from the cranking position. Where is the best place to start looking? The switch? The harness? The ignition box? I have a FBO box I could try if...

Ok. I put the vacuum gauge on the manifold port. Timing to best vacuum leaves me at 34° !!!??? 18-19 Hg. This can't be right...

No idea what compression ratio might be. I've tried all 3 positions on the pump, with no change. I will try the steps suggested tomorrow, the wife dragged me out of town today.

I don't have timing tape, but my dial back light is new and was calibrated last month. I'm using a limiting disc in the dizzy that only allows 14* of mechanical, which is all in at 2200 rpm. I will see if I can shorten up the travel on the 8.5 canister a bit and give it a shot. Should I adjust...

Vacuum on the ported side is zero at idle, it dies with any throttle pressure.

I get 16 Hg. at idle, it jumps up to 21-22 Hg. at about 1100-1200 rpm then drops as the revs go up. Is this normal?

So the markings on the canisters refer to the degrees of advance it will pull..? Distributor degrees the same as crank degrees?

They seem to respond only to vacuum pressure, ie: less or more vacuum to achieve the same amount of "stroke".

That is correct. It does this with 2 different stock distributors, both have been looked at for functionality and appear to move as intended. when in this position, watching the timing mark as throttle pressure is applied, the mark jumps pretty drastically before it dies.

Lol...good point.

The car should have more power in my opinion, the plugs look decent to my novice eye. It runs decent without it hooked up, just drinks gas. I was under the impression that the Allen screw adjusted the amount of vacuum it takes to actuate the canister itself...no? It seems that one could...

Sorry, meant to add it does that with just the slightest throttle pressure. idle is 850-900

Hi all, I'm having a heck of a time getting my vac. advance to work properly. LA 360, Comp 20-418-3, performer intake, 1406, stock distributor, FBO ECU & Chrome ECU both act the same. 20* initial-34* total. When the canister is plugged into either port, the thing won't run. Manifold vacuum...

Make sure you have the correct bulb, #1004

MP P4120534 So can I just plug it in, and use it?

The car is a 73 Duster. I seem to recall reading somewhere that it was important to run the proper ballast resistor with the chrome ECU.

I'm replacing the /6 ECU with a V8 ECU, the /6 connector has 5 wires and the V8 ECU has 4 pins. What do I need to do with the extra wire? Also, what are the Ohm values I should see in the ballast resistor for MP chrome ECU? Do I need to swap the voltage regulator as well? Thanks for the help!

At this point I feel like I've tried every possible scenario, I think I need to put everything back together and start over. If I remove the time delay relay, the voltage seen in the yellow wires goes away...but the lights are still on. The bulbs are new, the sockets are OE.

Hmm...this is making me feel dumb... With the dimmer to full right, the door and trunk switches disconnected, the map light switch disconnected, lights are on and I have power to the yellow. Just to throw another wrench in the mix, the light in the glove box works as it should...

Well, I replaced the flasher. The blinkers work as they should now. The dome light issue is still there. Checking with a test light/multimeter, should I be seeing voltage to the ground circuitry? I'm getting voltage in the yellow wires, which I thought were ground.