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Mine was loose too, Retorqued it and put the carter key in

Go to mymopar.com and download the manual;http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109 The 73 should be the same as the 72 in most cases

What year? The upper bearing and isolator rubber can be bought, I got on on eBay for a few dollars

There should be light resistance to movement, but pretty free, except when the steering box is installed, then the resistance will increase

Try the downloads at mymopar.com MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Parts & Accessories Books

Yes, I talked to them a month back, and got a quote. He said that they are extremely busy.

I used a shorter bolt and cut the center tube down to size.

I was wrong, this column does not have the screws just the two square bolts, sorry, old age I guess. As to keeping the collar from rotating. I just left mine alone, I have a floor shift car too. It would be possible to fill that space to lock the bar, the one that the lever was replaced with.

The lower piece has three screws at go into the tube sides, they are long and threaded, then the two square bolts just slide into slots, needs to be only snug, not real tight.

Ok thanks for the explanation.

Do not know why the difference use the one that is about an inch from the body when the car is at rest, weight on the tires.

It does not matter if the spindles are on or not. They only thing to make sure of is that the adjuster is all the way loose. so it is not putting pressure on the LCR stop. The torsion bar should align up then, there is a left and right hand bar. Put in from the back, install the boot, a real...

I used the 16 to 1, but it seemed to be harder to turn in my application with the large back tires.

As stated above an adapter would be the fastest and easylist to do.

Years ago that was a mod some did to stiffen the shock mounting. I think it was started in one of the Hot Rod magazines.

I have .780" width by 1.510" oval slot Measured with a dial indicator.

I maybe be wrong, but I think they are the same or very close. Need someone else to confirm. Good luck

Basic hand tools to rebuild, get a pump insert from a auto place. take apart and clean well.

I have them on my 69, I really like them, messed around adjusting them to fit my use, Looks good and have no issues with them, good quailty

I have used the US Tools on two cars and I realy like the way they look and function.

I had the idler arm bolt do the same thing as above, too. I got a grade 8 bolt, drilled an 1/8" hole and a castle nut. tighten it down and a carter key.

Check out Feel Firm, I have had good luck with them.

I had a poly boot that I got from Feel Firm. I screwed around for an hour on one side then I came up with this idea. Thanks for the replies.

Had my front end apart to remove the oil pan and started to put it back together. As we all know these boots can be a real pain in the behind to stretch over the hex in the torsion bar. Here is what I did to help that along. I started with a 3/4" long socket, then pushed it over the socket onto...

Although I did not have to move mine very far, about a 1/4" inch, to square up the rear axle to the car. I just took a die grinder to the axles mounting hole and took out what I needed to get the axle square.

Check your springs too, I wonder if there are shorter than stock

What did you do Richie?

Yes tighten will raise the front, by increasing the tension on the bar. Also with air shocks one maybe bad and not raising the car as needed.

Have you turned in the lower control adjusting screw higher? What dose that do? How dose the rear look like. Is the rear off too?

And make sure that the pitman arm is straight backwards, parallel to the frame.