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I know Cope has a manual and a transbrake valve body available, but they are spendy. I was planning on a TransGo kit. Switches are the fall back, but some sort of automatic function would be better. I wouldn't want to forget it was in OD or lockup during some excited downshifting.

I just bought a 46RE. Was supposed to be an RH but it I bought it anyway. I've been doing some interwebbing and what makes sense one minute, seems confusing the next. From what I've gleaned, the RE is different than the RH in that there are no governors or hydraulics in the OD unit. Correct...

An update. Ordered a McLeod RXT twin disc and installed it. A bit overkill, but I can abuse it all I want and they say it will take it. Bellhousing dial indicated within specs, and is actually damn near perfect. Throwout bearing moves .440" like they say it should, and it has clearance to...

If I had to guess, I'd say there was around 2500 miles on that clutch.

Looks like the clutch is toast! Pressure plate look pretty crazed and the flywheel doesnt look much better. There's a before and after pic of the clutch.

Just pulled the trans out. Input shaft looks fine, pressure plate fingers look normal. Need to pull the bell off yet to take the clutch apart for inspection, but nothing looked too scary so far. Damn, its looking like it might be internal hard parts.

This is an Assassin traction bar. http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k255/denny1213/trac1.jpg

Correct, the transfer bracket requires a locating pin be installed through the leaf. They do seem like nice bars and I wanted them for my truck, but they never responded to repeated requests for info about their product. Made me a little wary.

Yes, the factory Viper part. Kind of off topic but, one thing that has always concerned me was the clutch master fluid turned black fairly quickly almost like it had burnt. Clutch release was immediate and at top of pedal travel. Before the install, I questioned American Powertrain about...

Not real knowledgeable on the manual transmissions. Needing some thoughts on what the issue is here. At the track yesterday with my 5.7 hemi/T56 Warlock. On my shift into 2nd I heard a noise and the motor started revving. Limped it down track with what I thought was badly slipping clutch. Got...

Back in the 90's when I first rebuilt my diff I used whatever limited slip lube was available. Had nothing but problems with tires chirping and shuddering around corners like I was using a spool. Added extra sure grip additive with no change. Called Mazzolini Racing and thats when Bob Mazzolini...

Anyone seen this for sale anywhere recently? I need some for my clutch style sure grip and cant find singles anywhere. Even by the case is getting hard to find...

Cant really give you any kind of answer in this situation. The only way to tell what you need is to install the motor/trans at the proper angle and measure it.

Sounds like you got the splines misaligned in the differential. I wouldn't recommend beating it into submission. Get the other axle in if you can, to keep it from becoming misaligned as well. You do not want to turn anything with the axles out or this can happen. Back off the adjuster just in...

Do not turn anything when pulling axles out and you should be ok. Best way to do that is remove all axle retaining bolts and leave axles in place until they are both ready to pull out.

Yup- sounds like your splines got misaligned when the axles were out. Some times you can use the lever approach to get them lined up. Sometimes they just wont move and you gotta take them apart and re-align the splines. I am in the same boat... and mine will not budge. Something else just...

You could use a stock Challenger bell, and possibly use a remote oil filter kit?

If you are lucky, the original metal tag might still be attached to one of the housing studs. Otherwise, pulling out the pumpkin to look at the numbers on the ring gear. If you want to ball park it just count the amount of times the driveshaft spins during one revolution of the tire. Or vice-...

In regards to the pinion seal- if the pumpkin is the 741 or 742 housing it is the easy remove/ replace/ retorque situation. If it is the 489 housing it will require disassembly because of the crush sleeve.

4.4 pints is the capacity according to the service manual. Whatever flavor you like best, conventional or synthetic. I have used the various 75-90W synthetics lately. Supposed to free up some power. We cant put on a chrome diff cover on our 8 3/4's so you gotta take your 5 hp where you can get it...

8 3/4 sure grip with low miles on rebuild and new clutches. Tight? Yeah- I think I have a hernia on top of a hernia from trying that method for the better part of last weekend.

Looking for some good advice- other than disassembly- on how to get the splines lined up so I can install the axle. I have had the pumkin installed in housing with drive shaft bolted up and in park. Tried to slip the outer splines. No luck. Tried it in neutral with the other axle installed...