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I installed a tight one a few years back by first heating the crap out of it in my wife's oven to 250 deg.F. Needless to say I removed the box and took it into the kitchen first since the garage is 50 feet from the house. Note. clean the grease out of it first tho. Terry

What about the front brakes, drum or disc ? When were the calipers last rebuilt. Start by bleeding the right caliper, could be some air in it effecting it working right. Terry

If your rear is an 8 3/4 then you're right to remove the bars and go with the adjustable snubber. Can't help ya with the plates tho. but I'm sure someone here can.

So we finally find out what's eating at your craw TShell. Maybe if you had made the above post your first post you may have recieved far different responses. Or maybe you got the response you wanted all along. Ah what the hell do I know, I've only been doing this for 35 yrs.

TShell, what the hell do you think you're doing. Do you actually think that after badmouthing this website and the members in general that now anyone is going to help you in your supposed "search for horsepower". You're already on the slippery slope of being uninvited to attend. If you actually...

What rear end is it, 8 3/4 (ya got 3 choices) 8 1/4 etc.

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/K-Frames.html

Roll pin for what?

The 4 bolts that hold the 2 straps on the yoke, did they come with the yoke and are they grade 8

Ya think maybe Seabee's got a sense of humour or is he just "strange".:yawinkle:

What engine is in it. You could go to .890 or .920. I'd stay away from the 1" bars unless you're rally racing or running a BB and even then it's probably to much. Check the socket that the back end of the bars fits into and make sure that the welds that fix them into the cross member haven't...

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/susp/26.html You'll also need a technician that's prepared to take the time to get it right.

Jims has been in the news here, mostly bad from what I can remember, for a couple of years. Especially if ya gotto return something.

What engine/tranny is in it now and what size are the existing bars?

Generally the rule is to wait until all the weight is supported/bolted into the car and the total weight of the car is supported by the 4 tires and is level before welding in the connectors. Your engine and tranny are rubber mounted so they shouldn't add a twisting moment. If you're planning to...

You will definetely need to shorten the drive shaft and the best way to come up with a length is to measure the actual distance especially since you're replacing the rear. Have all the car weight on all 4 tires, put the tranny slip joint all the way forward into the tranny until it stops...

Personally I'd say the 1.03's are overkill and the term "lumberwagon" comes to mind. I'd recommend the .890 or .920's for nicest ride. I'm running .920's in a BB Demon (mind you with a few aluminum engine parts and fiberglass hood) and I'm thinking of switching back to the .890's.

I'm not sure that it matters, as an example if you ordered the bars from Mancini they only care to know if your car is an A body or a B body. The B body bars are longer by 5 inches. Early A's might be a whole different kettle of fish. http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/torsionbars.html

Under the frame rails about a foot back from the front bumper.

Sorry, I guess I should have been more specific in saying for the last quite a few years that only "new" gear sets available for the 741 have been 3.55, 3.73 and 3.91. Most of the other selections have been phased out years ago for the 741. The 742 still has lots of new gear set selection. I'd...

Are you sure they're 3.31 cuss I've never heard of that ratio, regardless there's obviously something wrong inside, preload, mesh, depth, hell could be almost anything. Take it back to the person/shop that did the setup/install and have them fix it.

which wheel, front or back.

Here ya go. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/6.html

If you make any large adjustments you should get the front alignment checked.

ttt

Has anyone got a picture that shows the proper orientation of the shoes before they go into the coupling body. I'd like to get it right the first time. I'm pretty sure I know, just want a second opinion. Almost forgot, 70 Duster.

You couldn't get a factory BB in a 73 dart.

I'm running the .890's with a 383/auto in a Demon and no problems. Have you checked your control arms to make sure they aren't joint stiff.

What I usually do is after having the front tires off the ground and check for looseness I lower the front tires on to ramps to put the weight of the car on the tires but still allow me to get underneath. then with someone slowly moving the steering wheel back and forth look and feel for sloop...

Where the hell did that come from, a drive by maybe.:angry7: