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Depends on what we are measuring If it is temp, sure If it is pressure...the mechanical gauge adds several feet of potential leakage

you're right, i got the terminology wrong i looked up the receipt (there were left over from a different project) and it is a schottky diode i used if i remember correctly i bought them when i hooked up a back up camera too my old plowtruck, as well as some extra bright spotlights i wanted...

Figured it out ! It was backfeeding through the middle (powered on when door open) post Put a resistor in and all is well (This is just to test it, everything will be connected much neater)

i prefer electrical gauges just not a big fan of running lines of hot oil into the cab of a vehicle with just about anything, i like plugging the hole with a sender of some kind and cut way down on the chances of leaks of course, mine is a daily driver, and close enough is just fine for me

2017

I have a crewcab 2500 The kids like having the rear dome on so I replaced the stocker with one from a higher trim level that has a switch in it Run a keyed hot to it and done, right? One my truck there was a ground on the left post, and a switched hot on the center (that on gets power when...

My reasoning was "what changed?" The oil pump, you said you replaced that Ok, how does the oil pump affect the ignition system? The same intermediate shaft drives the oil pump and the distributor So that's why I thought you should look there Now the question becomes "what part of the...

Intermittent shaft failure? Take the cap of and see if the rotor turns when you crank it over

wasnt just about fancy, i wanted to be able to see where the buttons were at the way it sits now, i can keep my right hand on the front plow controller and reach the rear plow buttons with my thumb

I love it when a plan comes together (I did run the keyed on to the pump, made more sense to me)

The switch should be here tonite This glorious mess is the wiring, it is all ready to hook up The three yellow ones are keyed positive 2 will go to the leds, the 3rd most likely to the winch (post) The brown one is the positive lead coming from the pump, i will iether use that one or the 3rd...

the OEM switch has 4 wires one hot, one going to the "up" solenoid, one going to the "down" solenoid" and one common from what i understand, the common goes to the starter solenoid on the pump so when i want the blade to go up, i need power to the up solenoid, and i need the pump to turn...

i ordered a switch, should be here this weekend, here is how i intend to wire it up

awesome now i just got to figure out how to make that work without the common jumper jumping from the green to the red, and vice versa, when i power one up

this video seems to explain it, if i understand it correctly, the white "common" goes to the "starter relay" of the pump so when i press on button, it will power up the pump, and open the "lift" port when i press the other button, it will power up the pump and open the "drop" port so, i...

thanks AJ, it looks like the pump has silly noids on them, so we are talking about relatively low draws here is a wiring diagram for the remote i have now it all makes sense to me, except for the white "common" wire i dont know what that one does if i see this correctly, i can draw from...

i added a rear blade to the plow over the summer and now that ive been using it, ive noticed i dont like the switches the switches are the most basic normally open momentary switches one wire in, one wire out now, what i want is either one switch with two positions, or two momentary push...

Except for the fact I attached the new one to the negative lug of the rear plow pump, right on top of the 2 gauge wire running straight to the battery

Wouldn't have don't me any good here, the eye had clean snapped of the cable

With the seasons changing I've been putting the plow truck through the paces I found it had a strange issue, wel several, really The first thing I noticed was that my back up light were not working properly No big deal, I'm running a few LED spots hooked up to the OEM back up wiring, so...

Thanks guys

Hey guys, I need 4 of these little doohickies to connect a switch, but I don't know what they are called They look like a spade connector, but are only half the width of those

im real sorry to hear about your buddy wish i could help with the electrical but its not jiving with me i would suspect a ground wire or something fusable link maybe?

May need a 45 degree end on it

you mean wire them into your running lights? they would still he "on all the time" when the regular lights are on but if understand you correctly, and that is what you want, i would run a jumper from your running lights to the appropriate wire on the halo makes sense?

morning Gents i just installed another gauge in my duster and i thought to myself, what a rats nest this wiring is i think my duster only has 4 spots on its fuse panel and it uses those little glass tubes, kinda like the one Doc Brown used to get the plutonium into the flux capacitor, only...

is it in park? or if its a 3 pedal, neutral?

the way to test is to put a volt meter on there check them one at a time IF the ballast is working as it should, one of those should read 8 volt with the key in "run" the other should read 12 volt with the key in "crank" then check the two wires going into the ballast, one should have 12...

the reason i wanted Johhny's opinion on the matter is because he probably build it (or sold it) so, go back to post #27 and follow what he said

hey...take a look at that dipstick, @Johnny Mac what distributor came with that engine?