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If you know how to degree a cam then do it. There are so many variables in todays manufacturing process especially between diffent suppliers. I will never install a cam without degreeing it, period. I refuse to leave anything on the table because of unknowns. If you don't know how to degree...

I also didn't mention heads or cams. And I never said he should write a check to a builder. I gave suggestions and asked for more info on his end goal. But I will keep my opinion to myself from now on. You guys keep building whatever it is you build. And I will keep any new info from this site.

Ok I will bite. Budget? End goal? I know you said street use but seriously? Do you want something with 300hp or something with 500hp? Also I know a very good engine builder in WA that is excellent with Magnum motors. He has went 11.59 in a clubcad Dakota with bone stock short block and...

I know of at least 1 person with bone stock heads and shortblock that is in the mid-11's in a Dakota. 11.59 to be exact in a clubcab even.

The cracks aren't big enough to worry about and they don't effect anything. Pull them if you want replace springs and valve seals do whatever "port" work you want and put them back on. No need to concern yourself with the cracks.

If it has 196k miles I would replace the valve springs anyways. They are worn out whether you swap cams or not.

I can see heads exploding now.

What kinda boat do you have that you can play around with a 13 second street car in? Just yanking yer chain.

SWEET!!!!! You are one step closer. Hopefully I can get over there and check things out. I see a road trip in my future when I get home.

Here is a set of KB107's. Alot of guys run these with good results. They are a little more then the Speedpros but they are 2 valve relief like you want. http://www.ebay.com/itm/KB-Performance-Pistons-KB107-030-360ci-Zero-Deck-Clearance-w-6-123-Rods-030-/200721725769#vi-content

Kind of the way I feel about my truck build. Feels good to be able to build something nice.

Man Rob that thing is a work of art. Your little / should really move.

See if one of your local car washes has heated water. I have always had good luck using a steam/pressure washer.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0804_small_block_mopar_engine/viewall.html

Don't forget about the associated parts that go with each item. Gaskets, bearings, rings, timing chain. Those will add up quickly too.

With someone turning the key have some hit the bottom of the tank with a hammer. Sometimes if the pump goes out the hammer blows will make it kick on. If that works then replace the pump. Oh smack it with the side of the hammer not the normal strike face.

I have How to build Big Inch Mopar Small Blocks which yes it is for strokers but it is basic engine building. I also have How tro Modify your Mopar Magnum V8. The later of the 2 is a really good book. over 250 pages and it covers almost everything needed to build a Magnum motor. Between the...

Whatever terms you want to use I really don't care. The fact is that ALL R/T Dakotas came with 250hp at the flywheel. And if you look around you will read that pretty much everywhere. Here is a thread I started Feb 9 2012 on dakota-durango.com. 190-200 stock. Reverse your math and you get...

I asked this same question on Dak-Dur last week. Every stock R/T will dyno at 190-200 at the rear wheels. I asked because I have a 98 Ram SS/T and the window sticker clearly say 250hp, meaning flywheel HP.

I want to know what you have done to your R/T. Because they all came with 250 flywheel HP.

You could always go with the Iron Ram magnum heads. Eliminate the eventual cracks and a pretty decent flowing head. One that could be worked later to flow better when you put more boost to it

Good call. Excellent information. Dan, if you aren't in too big of a hurry I will be coming back to the states in May and will be removing my kegger if you are interested.

Also if this is gonna be a project for next year wait until around Christmas. Check Craigslist and Ebay, people always need extra cash then and sell cheap. That's how I got alot of my more expensive items. I have spent $2200 on my truck since November. But the actual lowest price/retail of...

Don't use the factory kegger if you plan to go anything over 10 psi. The plenum gasket will blow. Unless you fashion an aluminum plate and have it welded on there instead of bolt on steel. Also if you want it to support 400+ hp then it is gonna need some major modification to the runners...

Oh and the 2bbl throttle body can be made to flow over 1000cfm and alot of guys are running them on their turbo Daks. The opening is planty big. There are 2 2bbl Mopar intakes on Ebay right now. 1 is $500 and the other is $600, I didn't look at them well so I am not sure of the difference in...

Look around. You can get an M1 as a 4bbl unit with the injector ports already drilled. Here is a pic of the one I bought brand new for $218 shipped. It is of course for the Magnum heads. They are out there and I have the Mopar 4bbl to 2bbl throttle body adapter.

Wow a year and a half old post resurected.

If these are Magnum heads then 318 and 360 are the same heads right? So they won't lower the compression using them on a 318 right?

I would say that it could be possible with 1.6 on the exhaust. It seems that our heads struggle in the exhaust flow area. At least on stock heads.

No where does it say it he was running spray on it. So anybody who has ever run a stockish motor a "NOS" will break?