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Like Inertia said if the engine is moving that much you have another serious problem. I'm running a Hayden clutch fan on my 408 and it only has 3/8" gap between it and the radiator. Been on there 3 yrs. (5000 + miles) with no issues and I run the crap out of it. Even race it at the track on...

Thanks Carl (correct me if I'm not remembering your name correctly). Just had hernia surgery so it'll be 3-4 weeks before I can get mine out. As soon as I can I'll pull it out first and have a look at it before you go through digging yours out. If I can't do anything with mine I'll give you a...

The picture I provided isn't the actual one they sent. It's one that's real close that they showed on their website. The one they sent has the wires coming out way at the back end. No way they'd go under the mounting plate. Sorry, I should have mentioned that about the picture. Thanks for the input

The blower motor in my 68 Cuda runs slow and is making noise like the bearings (or bushings, whatever it has) are dry and I was planning on just pulling it apart and seeing if I could lube it up but I had to order some stuff for the wife's POS Pontiac from Rockauto and thought what the heck I'd...

If it's a race car you want a cold thermostat or just a restrictor. If it's a street car a 180 is generally the best to use because engines need heat to properly atomize the fuel at lower rpm's. Plus as Tekslk said a cold running engine is more prone to sludge buildup. If your running a...

Your welcome Dan. Outside temp sure can make a big difference. Mine runs 180 all day long when it's 80 or less. Soon as it hits 85 mine's up to 190~195. 90 outside and it runs right at 200. Some are just touchy like that.

Not sure if a NAPA would have a temp gun to use or not. I'm sure they sell them, but they may not have one to use. Autozone is usually better at doing stuff like that. Shoot it at the thermostat housing (if it isn't chrome, reflection off of anything shiny can give a false reading). The temp...

Where are you at now Daniel? I'm just 3 miles off Rt. 66, 10 miles south of Litchfield. I imagine your already past me but if your not and can stop by I have a thermal temp gun and we can check the accuracy of your gauge real easy. As the others mentioned factory gauges aren't very reliable...

Hum.. That's odd, I've had a Northern in my car for 3-4 yrs. without any trouble. Gonna have to start calling you bad luck Kory, LOL

Ok. If you don't have a good shroud it'll never cool good no matter what radiator you have. And a pusher fan is something you should only ever use as a last resort. They actually block some air flow. What you need is a good shroud. You can have one custom made probably less than a new radiator...

Correct. Not enough air moving at idle is probably the culprit. You can have a pump that pumps like a wild thing and it doesn't do any good at all if the water isn't being cooled off in the radiator. Kory do you have a shroud on it? what size radiator and fan?

^ I believe Rumbles correct. If you do find a hi volume pump with a drivers side inlet it'll still be made of cast iron. In over 32 yrs. of wrenching on Mopars I have yet to see an aluminum version of the early pass side inlet pump

If you get a 26" crossflow radiator the actual core dimension is about 4-5" less because it's stated width counts the tanks. I have a 68 Cuda and measured it up and a 26" crossflow radiator doesn't even take up every bit of the opening side to side. Top to bottom is just a little shy of the...

Kim's right... It'll work I don't know why they can't list them as sb and bb to 78 then have the small one listed as 79 up SB so it's not confusing??

I've seen the double and tripple pass radiators but wondered if they really do what they say they do. Haven't seen anything written about them except in the ads and of course all ads say their stuff works great. Do you know if your neighbor had another radiator in before it to compare it to?

Actually that depends on what style radiator you use. If you stay with a stock type that has top and bottom tanks your correct, the opening isn't big enough. If you go with an aftermarket type with side tanks they measure their width counting the tanks so the actual core size ends up only being...

The 180 is always my choice for a street car

The 18" opening in the shroud doesn't act like an 18" opening. It has to be that size so the fan fits snug to create a vacuum to draw air through the entire radiator. Where it mounts to the radiator should be the same as the core size (give or take a small ammount) and that's how it acts...

My 68 Cuda has a 26" opening. A lot of guys open them up to run a bigger radiator as 68 Dartman suggested.

Good idea. Right now my drill press is down due to worn bearings. As soon as I get it up and running I'll have to try that. I don't mind spending the $5-6 they originally sold for but for $17 I'll try to make one. Thanks for the info

If I had a way to cut a good clean round disc I would. Not easy to do with std. hand tools and get it right. I'd gladly give $5 for one again rather than go through the work of trying to make one.

Champion rdaiators are designed like the originals with the tanks on the top and bottom. A member here, Challengergary, sells them.

Have you tried www.rockauto.com They have some stuff for our older cars and their downright cheap too. I've ordered from them a few times and always got good parts and service. Good luck. BTW: how far off are the ones you found at the local auto parts stores? Are you sure it's original?

Sounds like you got lucky. Mine was twisted so bad and the welds looked terrible so I was affraid to try to tweak it in shape for fear it'd leak. Tnx for the part # on the Milodon thermost.

Update, I installed a new Autometer temp gauge and cruised it around for about an hour (all the time I had) and it never went above 185 so now I'm wondering if it was never running as hot as I thought and my high dollar laser temp gun is off??? Going to pick up a new temp gun next week and see...

When I replaced my original radiator I ordered a Champion. What a POS. Looked like a kid welded it together and it was twisted. I had a thread about it a long time back, it's been so long (2-3 yrs.) I wouldn't be able to find it easy. I've heard they work good if you get a good one. Oh yeah...

Yep.. I've seen setups like that many times that work good and guys with aftermarket stuff that looks trick doesn't work as good. I tried water wetter and it did help. I do have a 33% mix of antifreeze. Going from a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix to the 33% mix with water wetter dropped it a good 10...

Sure is weird isn't it! It's a 2 row. Their 1" rows. I don't remember the brand but I bought it from FBO. I told Don I was planning on building a 408 that'd make about 450 hp and he said it'd be plenty radiator for that. No I haven't tried a viscous fan but that was my next step. But by...

The temp seems to be uniform everywhere but my temp gun is kinda hard to get good readings off shiny objects. Right now I have the electric fan on it and it's about 1/4" away. When I had a flex fan on it was 3/4" away and centered in the shroud (1/2 in and 1/2 out). With both fans it pulls a lot...

My 408 runs a little hotter than I like at all speeds. It only has about 2500 miles on it and I had it hot tanked twice and recently flushed it twice and didn't get much out so I'm reasonably sure it's real clean inside. I had a 6 blade water pump on it and thought maybe it just wasn't flowing...