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I've done that on every car I've owned, this truck is new to me a few months ago. I'm doing some of the wiring over, installed both a ground and positive hub today, as well as a bigger ground cable, separate ground wires for ECU, starter relay, a ground wire all the way to the rear taillights...

I have not been pumping the gas pedal at all. It takes 1 pump and it starts right up, since day 1, any day, any weather/temperature. I gave it 1 pump this morning and that was it, even after multiple attempts to start. Came back in the afternoon, I gave a small pump at the carb to make sure it...

I bought a painless 7 circuit box, modern fuses, comes with wire. Iirc, 3 constant power circuits, 4 ignition power. Fuse box fit in the stock location. Incorporated it into my existing harness using factory correct Packard connectors and the stock plastic connectors. Ran 1 wire to the...

Found it multiple times on FABO.

Battery charged overnight, now at 13.18 volts. Cranking it goes to 10.7. It gave a 'I'm gonna start' for a few seconds then nothing. Spark at the coil wire, spark at the plug wire. The Reluctor gap spec is .008>.011, literally, .007 is too loose, .008 fits, .009/.010 fit nicely, .011 is too...

It seems odd the harness has 4 wires, the plug 5 female connectors, and the ECU 5 pins. Does that mean a 4 pin ECU will work as well? I disconnected the 2 wire connector from the harness to the distributor, each end has a long pin on one side. Key in run, I touched the long pin from the harness...

I'm not understanding a few things: I have a 5 pin ECU, the plug has 5 female pins but only 4 wires, why? I have a single ballast resistor, factory appearing harness, is this correct? The biggest hurdle for me is I see no cause and effect, or maybe the reverse, for everything I have checked...

I'll check tomorrow. Ran fine, then nothing, that gap 'shouldn't' have changed, stuff happens. Years ago I had a bad pickup, it was cracked, only when hot it wouldn't start. Start cold, run hot fine, turn it off no start. Let it cool, start fine. Opposite of current issue, but got to check...

I don't think I checked that directly, just the resistor on both sides. What would cause that? My battery isn't fully charged yet, 80%, but that's enough to crank/start it.

Just the one 2 wire plug. I did pull the cap/rotor for a visual inspection, cleaned them up, distributor looks brand new, not that it matters.

Clean/gap plugs, crank no start. Fail! And failed to learn anything. I didn't want to just throw parts at it, at least I succeeded in that. Something is making me think it's more than 1 thing, based on nothing though.

84 Ram, Mopar 5 pin ECU, crank/no start. Everything new 9k miles ago, not that it matters. Hit it with the pressure washer the other day, started it up after to dry it off, parked it in the sun for the day to dry. Left the doors open to air it out, came out to start, dead battery. I forgot the...

I used the AAW harness on my 62 Dart, $299, modern fuse box, all the wire you could ever need plus, alternator kit with the main power cable and maxi fuse. Bought the Packard connectors and used the factory plastic connectors, ignition switch, wiper switch, etc. On my 67 a-body I bought a...

:)

I recall when my reverse lights would not come on I would have to turn my wiper switch on and off until the wipers would come on and finally the reverse lights. I have since powered the reverse lights another way, and now both work without issues. Strange set up, imo

I did this on my wagon years ago: New 10 gauge wire with fuseable link from alternator to starter relay + post. Took black wire off alternator, shortened it, connected it to + on starter relay. Removed it from the ammeter and dead ended it. Black wire has splice in harness that feeds dash...

H4s on one car, excellent. Sylvania somethings, terrible. Wagners on another, awesome - but here's the catch, I put a ground hub next to the battery, pigtail from the neg battery cable to the hub. Ditched the headlight grounds to the body, ran new wire to the hub, they're effing bright as heck...

Wanted to chime in just to say, even though I have a fsm and tested some things already, this thread helped me figure out my issue. Horns didn't work, car sat a long time, mostly just cleaning up connections and having good grounds solved everything. Cleaned up the horn relay and horns worked...

I think, guessing here, most if not all 67s, or maybe those ordered to northern climates, got the rear metal window trim with the defrost vent, whether one ordered rear defrost or not. That way, a dealer could easily install rear defrost by punching a rough hole in the rear panel, covering it...

Ok, thank you. It fits perfectly behind the bezel, sits right inside the back. I'll probably epoxy them in, or something similar.

Unable to locate a definitive stupid gauge question answer. Want to order gauges in the same size as in the pic, but what size is it? Diameter measured at the back (blue), the black bezel (red), or the glass (yellow)?

67

Flashers are garbage today, chased my tail a few times, short version, replaced both flashers with the NAPA solid state flasher. It's pricey, about $15, but have them in all old Mopars, no more issues, directionals flash with authority, like a new car.

Grounds are never overkill imo. For the record, I don't have a trunk mounted battery, but I do have a ground hub in the trunk, the sending unit, tank, and reverse lights are grounded to it, and a ground wire runs from that to a ground hub in the front. Everything is grounded to the front hub...

Does anyone run a ground wire up front as well?

So 10+ years ago, iirc, I had an Accel distributor and a stock alternator. I now have an MSD distributor and an alternator with an internal regulator. Inbetween I think I had the MSD and stock alternator, I got a solid state regulator, search 35-300 on ebay, and a NAPA solid state flasher...

Nice work. Stupid question: does the ac compressor have a tensioner?

I bought this, replaced my original fuse box, used the same mounting place and screw. It runs everything the stock fuse box did, plus a few. Ran wires directly to the factory plastic plugs using factory connectors. Mine doesn't have the relay, already have relays for headlights, but I couldn't...

I used the bulkhead for the wiper and reverse wires, as they are the only thing remotely close. Iirc I left the headlight wires there but they are new with relays and just run through it. There was an existing hole by the po near the master cylinder, which I used for everything else. Alternator...

I put in a Painless 7 circuit fuse box, it's not listed as a fuse box iirc. Installed in the same place as the original, gave me more fuses, and I eliminated the ammeter baloney. I used factory style connectors, feed everything from the new box, and eliminated the ammeter splice, left it in the...