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You can build either a Dana or an 8 3/4 for approximately the same money, starting from scratch, if you can find a deal on a housing. My choice Dana 60. Put it in and forget about it.

Those aren't bad numbers for a small hydraulic roller. These cams are made more for torque than high rpm horsepower. The cam you are looking at looks like a decent grind and should give you a sizeable gain but if it is quicker or not depends on you ability to hook this animal up. Don't forget...

Some more information about your car would be useful. You should see a gain with the cam but gaining more than 5 mph with a cam swap may be asking alot. 116 to 121+ is a huge gain.

Did the exhaust ports move up, out, or up and out? I can afford to raise my headers up but no way can I move them out. Trying to plan ahead.

Thanks for the info. So this is a comparison to a heavily ported 906 and a box stock B1/BS? Nice results. This came at a good time, I may have cracked a head in Canada last weekend racing. Started teardown last night to find the source of the leak. This sucks 40 runs and the motor already apart...

Crank Scraper- Not sure on a 4 inch crank. May have to modify one for a stock crank. Either way not really worth the hassle IMO. Spring- I would use the one supplied with the pump. Priming the pump- It wouldn't hurt to pour some oil in the pump before installing it, that way it is not dry...

That is the same pan I have used on a few engines. I don't remember having to cut the k-member. You might have to trim the lip on back a little but don't even think this is necessary. This is a good street/strip pan. Did you replace all the gaskets on the adapter when you reinstalled it...

Oil Pump- Highly recommend a Melling HV pump. Think Melling makes the best pumps period. On a motor of this caliber why risk it with a stock volume pump. Oil pumps are cheap. Oil Pan- A larger than stock pan is also recommended. The Milodon pan, if its the one I'm thinking of, Is wider at the...

I do the same thing, got tired of putting the converter bolts in three times before I got it right.

The B1/BS head should net roughly a 30-40lb weight savings. I think these are a very good head that is underrated by magazines and others. I also like the small combustion chambers, 65 cc on a big block will yield a good gain in compression. The 915, depending on how much they are milled are...

:salut: LOL they're not going to break, but have fun trying.

I ran 273 rockers on a low 12 sec 340 for many years. Repeated trips to 7000 rpm's with a solid cam with no failures. Just had to trash the original adjusters for a good set with lock nuts and grind a slight relief for retainer clearance. I still have this set of rockers and am going to use them...

Has anybody tried or know sombody that has tried the new big block Indy heads designed for A-bodys? I think they are called 440-EZ. The exhaust ports are claimed to be in the stock location. I wonder if headers actually fit like they are supposed to? 440-1 heads have a raised exhaust port that...

I've always just applied oil to both small and big block head bolts and then torqued them to spec. I have yet to have any kind of head bolt leakage. I've always wondered if i should but never have. Good luck so far

Yes i'm familiar with Magnum heads and their characteristics, but it helps to know what kind of airflow you have before making predictions hence the ported heads question. 12.50's should be within reach.

Ported heads?

Have always used loctite on my flexplate and converter bolts with no problems at all.