Search results for query: *

I thought about this before, but the wing window always seemed to muck up the placement from my vantage point in the driver's seat. I have a 68 Barracuda.

There nothing fancy, just a push nut stud, should be all kinds at the local hardware store in the nuts and bolts section.

That's not true at all, who do you think makes the adhesive that OEM's use?? Answer, 3M, Lord Fusor, etc... The spot welds are just there to keep the parts from sliding around while the panel bond cures. You can cream an entire quarter skin on and rosette weld it where it needs to be with a...

We aren't building a 100 story skyscraper here, and the welds don't have to be x-rayed. Panel bond will fill those holes, and it will do it very well. It's even sandable and paintable if need be.

Just mix up some 2-part panel bond adhesive and smear it on with a bondo spreader. Half of all new cars are put together with the stuff, it is made to adhere to bare metal.

I hope you thanked the painter, makes for a way better paint job.

Clear coat is like concrete, it takes a month to fully harden. Baking is just for production times, to get them in and out of the paint booth and get the next job in. Unless the painter really f'd up and didn't mix it in the correct ratio of clear to hardener, it's fine I'd say.

Can you post up your wiring schematic, in particular, what color wire on the original wiring harness did you tap into? I believe there are 4 wires running to the wiper motor. Thanks

Human sacrifice to the gods doesn't hurt either.

I might be wrong, but that says it's a Hood to Cowl seal. Not the same as a hood to radiator/core support, but I could be wrong.

Well if it's separated, you can always use a 3" wide roll of sand paper and use about a 8" long piece to wedge in between the metal and just move it back and forth like you're drying your back with a towel.

Amazon.com: Lord Fusor 108B Metal Bonding Adhesive (Medium-Set), 7.6 oz.225ML: Automotive

No worries at all, pretty standard. Single stage urethanes if doing a solid color is the way to go on the whole car if you ask me. And we usually mix the last coat 50/50 with clear for buffing ability, not durability. Any single stage modern urethane is going to have all of the UV protections...

Does your door have a wing window? If so, are you aligning it with the wing window/window assembly installed? The up/down/front/back alignment can be crucial for sealing to the A-pillar and your side glass sealing to the drip rail rubber. Don't want to get it all back together and take it for...

Both 3M and Lord Fusor make an epoxy panel bond adhesive. It's totally water proof and I've used it to fill holes before. Just make sure the area is well sanded and you can dimple a flush area so that when you block it, you don't sand it all away on top.

Why not just use panel bond adhesive? Whole lot easier.

The 2 screws can be removed without having to disassemble the interior pieces along the quarter glass. What I did, was cut a phillips head drive bit down and then put that in the closed end of a 1/4" wrench to remove the screws. Just don't drop the screws into the bottom of the quarter well.

The trim along the top of the door, is just held on by about 6 or 7 metal clips, gently pry up on the moulding from underneath using a plastic glass installation tool, or some other plastic wedge shaped trim removal tool. The trim on the quarter glass has 2 metal clips on the horizontal...

Orange peel on paint is as expected as the sun rising tomorrow. Put it on heavier to avoid peel, and you end up with those pesky gravity flow indicators.

The best method with single stage urethanes is to mix the last coat 50/50 with a urethane clear coat. Then you can cut and buff to your heart's delight, even metallics.

I think he's talking about the clips that hold the stainless belt moulding on at the top's of the doors and the qtr stainless trim. They kinda look like this, but the tangs don't come out on them at a 90 degree angle. They come out at like a 60 degree angle.

They are metal wire trim clips, and they have a angle on them as they go in, they aren't 90 degrees going in, and I haven't been able to find them in any catalog including Aveco. If you do find them, post back and let everyone know the part number.

I also had a bad passenger side leak. Turned out it was not coming from inside the cowl area, but water, doing what water will do, was coming in somehow from the area under the hood where all the pieces of sheet metal make a sandwich. I think through surface tension, it was going down, and...

That and 50 cents will get you a cup of coffee. Maybe, darned inflation.

I've been contemplating putting in some sort of cabin air filter, possibly just cutting a round piece of low density foam to fit in the top of the passenger side aid intake. What did you do RedFish?

color match is a little off on the hood :D:D:D:D

I would add, that all primers/paints etc. shrink back to some extent, some worse than others. So if you aren't in a big hurry, prime it, block it, and let it sit for a few weeks. Then block it again. Let the primer shrink before putting the finish coat on.

The correct way is going to be a ton of work. Drilling out a bunch of spot welds and cutting the cowl at the A-pillar and replacing the entire bottom panel and then re-seam sealing the whole shebang and welding it back up. Not for the faint of heart.

http://3mcollision.com/products/sealants/3m-brushable-seam-sealer-08656-quart.html Just use a throw away acid brush to apply, works like a charm.

You built a rotisserie out of wood????? For reals?