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NICE!!! I wanted to build a 25psi slant out of my Demon's 225 BUT for the same cost you can build a big block stroker, and the turbo as well and make scary power..

There is /6 to v8 swap mounts.. so you can leave the /6 k in it.. Trans Dapt makes them for $65 thru Summit

That thing has got to be ball-less LOL cool but beyond that would not do that swap with out a turbo or supercharger and then it wouldn't be worth anything still and be about as fast as a chipped 5.9 Durango

If you can't find one I will sell my a body V8 rad and the slant hoses for the V8 rad for $80 + shipping Not a very good pic - but it's a V8 radiator.. hoses are also old but new - I parted out the 4bbl/header setup PLEASE do not ask/PM about it!

No problem! Put some drag radials on the car and street drive it! I have friends that street drive their sub 9 second turbo cars..

Looks better with the bumper(s) off IMO I don't think I will have that fitment issue as the Dart/Demon grille to core support is much deeper than that of the Valiants and I will be mounting my intercooler on the upper area just in front of the rad (if you can imagine it)

I hope to not cut up much of the car to get the stuff to fit BUT If it needs to be it will likely get done as clean as possible - I will probably work with SharaDon's on making the manifold as I want to the turbo to sit just rear of the factory battery location (with moving the battery to the...

Their shop is amazing I agree! Probably have them make up the turbo mani as well..

I was planning this basically - blending of the bowls and gasket match of the port faces prior to any machine work and that's it.. install the bigger valves/seats and let the turbo do the rest of the work.. basically a mild build (depending on the cam which again mild not rev'ing above 5,500rpm)...

The engine slated is my Demon's original 71 225.. has 90k-ish miles and probably don't need a rebuild BUT it's going to get it.. Thanks 805!!

Well guys the plan is slated - just made the last parts orders for my fox bodies SO time to gather some info on turbo'ing the 225 in my 71 Demon.. Planned - rebuilt 225 - decked milled .010" to clean it 7.5-8.5 static compression ported head, bigger valves, hardened seats, stiff valve springs...

I've stripped the stock studs before - I want something that won't strip.. ARP bolts are rated MUCH higher than grd8 and heat treated

I'm using stock stuff (intake/exhaust) I sold my hooker header/ offy 4bbl intake on here awhile ago.. so that is the reason for using bolts instead of studs.. it will be much easier I feel cause I already had stockers and carb studs strip out while tightening the works down.. Sorry I left that...

how is the tune up? plugs gaped ok? check the carb for a stuck float?

that or washers under the mounting points of the rod going to the trans OR buy a Lokar kick down cable and eliminate the rod..

Just read ARP chromoly bolts are heat treated.. problem solved.. (for me at least haha) Plus these only need 15ft/lbs max and these ARP bolts use a 3/8" hex head so the bottoms will be easier to get to then the 1/2" nut of the norm. you have to remember the flanges are 1/2" thick, then you...

Got part numbers? I'm about to order the ARP chromoly SBF intake bolt kit and say F the studs in the middle.. only run 2 grade 8 carb studs on the outer/top bolt holes for the exh. mani.

go buy the bolt length that'll work and a 5/16-18 die to make the threads longer is what I did on my 87 D150's 225 and use permatex thread sealant

I see ya ya carb studs would work the same... BUT I want something that isn't gonna strip out

I see do you have a part number for the ARP's? All I find is 1.625(1 5/8") and 2.25" and the originals I have are 1 3/4"

Looking for alternative studs/bolts for the intake/exhaust of my Demons 225.. anyone have something that worked or an idea? I was thinking of some 1.5" grade 8 bolts?

got the call today - cancelled and refund...

I just ordered one lets see what they say... and I don't need it but it's a screaming deal..

this would be awesome a slant with a 4 speed auto trans!

Sounds like a nightmare... shoulda just gone with what most others do and done a MSD box+ electronic dist or the factory Mopar electronic ignition conversion kit.... and ran a ballast on the coil (I still do with a MSD blaster 2 coil and Mopar electronic conversion)

my 1bbl is quite smaller than a 2bbl- I got my 65 2bbl 273 air cleaner to work- gonne use a K&N 10"x3" filter (from a early 80's Merc) and a 9" Xstream lid

I had a 4bbl setup on my slant- 100% made everything if I was to do it again (and I might be with a turbo) use the stock slant throttle cable with a summit cable bracket that bolts to the carb, buy the Lokar kick down cable kit, find a cheaper Hooker header(make sure it has the install kit with...

OH I get it - I have one off a 273 2bbl LOL I'll see if it will work on the slant!

I'm running the stock holley 1920 1bbl and want to run a air filter setup with 5 1/8" neck (typical 4bbl air cleaner)

How have you guys put open element/ different air cleaner assemblies on your slants? I want to either run a 5 1/8" open element or a newer Dakota style tube with a cone filter on my 1bbl...