1975 Dodge Dart Idler Arm

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SSpaZZ

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Hello everyone,

I am currently in the process of replacing the idler and pitman arms. I started removing the idler arm last night and ran into a brick wall, or engine, that is. Its obvious that Dodge put the suspension together and then dropped the Slant 6 in. The problem with this is the bolt for the idler arm was inserted from the top down, which makes no sense at all. I started to tap the bolt upwards and it actually hits the oil filter/pump assembly.

I can only think of two options: grinding the head of the bolt off, or possibly raising the motor off of the mounts, unless someone knows a cool trick. When I reassemble it, the bolt will go through the bottom for future ease.

Thanks again. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
Well you've already found the cool trick. Grind the head off the bolt and install from the bottom. The issue is that if the nut backs off and the bolt falls out, you'll have no steering at all.
The right way is to loosen the motor mounts and jack up on the engine...that's not what I did :lol: but I did drill the bolt for a cotter pin just because I'm a "what if" kinda person.
 
Thanks for the reply :) I had that planned and have the proper bits to drill for a pin. I like to be prepared for Murphys Law...What can go wrong, will go wrong!!! lol
 
Well, I changed out the parts. I ended up removing the passenger side motor mount bolt, jacked it up a couple of inches, and the idler arms was gravy to get off. The Pitman arm on the other hand was a different story. First off, I HIGHLY recommend to use the three claw puller and not that little rinky dink two claw; the pitman arm just laughed at the two claw. Secondly, have a four inch angle grinder available. I had to cut into the pitman arm. Doing so not only heated the metal up so it expanded, a little, but it also weakened it. I was very careful in doing so as to not grind into the spline.
 
Well, I changed out the parts. I ended up removing the passenger side motor mount bolt, jacked it up a couple of inches, and the idler arms was gravy to get off. The Pitman arm on the other hand was a different story. First off, I HIGHLY recommend to use the three claw puller and not that little rinky dink two claw; the pitman arm just laughed at the two claw. Secondly, have a four inch angle grinder available. I had to cut into the pitman arm. Doing so not only heated the metal up so it expanded, a little, but it also weakened it. I was very careful in doing so as to not grind into the spline.
I ran into the same problem, and realized what a dumb assembly procedure that was to install that bolt, but I suggest removing the bolt and arm after removing motor mount, leave it up, install the idler, and reinstall the bolt from the top. Avoid the bolt coming loose and extra work involving drilling for a cotter pin . My problem is removing the darn pitman arm bolt with my air impact gun, just came loose a little, but won't come off! soaked with WD-40, but...I don't know. any other suggestions??:axe:
 
I ran into the same problem, and realized what a dumb assembly procedure that was to install that bolt, but I suggest removing the bolt and arm after removing motor mount, leave it up, install the idler, and reinstall the bolt from the top. Avoid the bolt coming loose and extra work involving drilling for a cotter pin . My problem is removing the darn pitman arm bolt with my air impact gun, just came loose a little, but won't come off! soaked with WD-40, but...I don't know. any other suggestions??:axe:

Try running it back down and then off again.
Repeat as necessary and use a little oil instead of WD40 since it moves a little.
 
I had to use my 4inch angle grinder to remove the pitman arm. I ground as deep as I could into it a little at a time; being sure not to touch the teeth on the steering box.

What this did is, of course, thinned the metal, but the heat generated expands the metal which helps separate the pitman arm from the steering box. Once I did that, the puller had no issues removing it.
 
I had to use my 4inch angle grinder to remove the pitman arm. I ground as deep as I could into it a little at a time; being sure not to touch the teeth on the steering box.

What this did is, of course, thinned the metal, but the heat generated expands the metal which helps separate the pitman arm from the steering box. Once I did that, the puller had no issues removing it.

I did the same thing after breaking 2 different pullers. Cut the side of the pitman arm just shy of the teeth on the gear box shaft, hit the cut a couple of times with a chisel to spread it and break loose the rest of the way. Slid right off.
 
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