273

-
66Glassback said:
Hey everyone, just wanted to update you on the block. In the picture is where the oil filter housing mount goes. Someone drilled out the hole and epoxied a sleeve in it. That is where the oil in the coolant is coming from. I found a good 273 block that I am going to pick up tomorrow. Thanks for everyone's response (even all the quarreling... I kind of found it funny.) I will update with some more pictures later.

View attachment 1716166609
Click to expand...
no sir.jpg
 
Trying to keep it original? Get another 273. They are good little motors.

Otherwise I'd drop a 360 in there in a heartbeat.
 
You never hear Chevy guys telling other Chevy guys to shitcan a 283. Why is that? Because they love the little motors and realize they are very capable. Mopsr guys are the only ones I constantly see crappin all over the 273. Strange, ain't it?
 
Brought my new block to the machine shop yesterday. This is what it should look like without the sleeve. This one needs some work but no cracks and it came out of a 1967 Barracuda.

IMG_4316.jpg


IMG_4318 (1).jpg
 
66Glassback said:
I recently removed my 273 Commando engine out of my 1966 Barracuda. I wanted to have it checked out and rebuilt. It was getting a small amount of oil in the coolant but no coolant in the oil. Other than that it ran great. The machine shop I sent it to found a small crack in the block. I have found someone that has a 273 that I could purchase and use the block as a doner. I was wondering, seeing where I am at, should I just find a 318 or a 360 to rebuild and will one of those motors be ok to hook up the A833 4 speed transmission to?
Click to expand...
Where is the crack? Oil gallery pressure is higher than coolant while running but when you shut the engine off the oil pressure goes to nothing while the coolant has to cool off to drop pressure.
Antifreeze will leak through where water will not.
That crack must be fairly small.
Another question is, is the engine numbers match to the chassis? If it is the engine that came in the car, I would seriously try to get it repaired. Numbers match are becoming scarser and more valuable.
 
Dale Davies said:
Where is the crack? Oil gallery pressure is higher than coolant while running but when you shut the engine off the oil pressure goes to nothing while the coolant has to cool off to drop pressure.
Antifreeze will leak through where water will not.
That crack must be fairly small.
Another question is, is the engine numbers match to the chassis? If it is the engine that came in the car, I would seriously try to get it repaired. Numbers match are becoming scarser and more valuable.
Click to expand...
There is no "numbers matching" until sometime in 68 for some models. Date code correct or casting date correct is all the closer you can get.
 
The first picture is the original motor out of my 66. I was getting oil in the coolant. Someone tried to sleeve that oil port for whatever reason I don't know. I can only imagine it was because of the oil getting in the coolant. The second picture is the 273 block I bought out of someone's 67. I believe the date stamp is the only way to ID the block before 68 or 69. Therefore, I am not sure if the engine I removed from the car was the original or not. The last three pictures are the replacement block I purchased cleaned up with new soft plugs, bored out and new cam bearings. Can't wait until the machine shop is done and I can get it reinstalled.

Old damaged 273 block.jpg


Replacement block (2).jpg


block 2.jpg


Block 3.jpg


block 4.jpg
 
Any update on the project?

Considering the block are cast, is it possible the tube was installed to address porosity in the block? I worked on a test rack in the oil field and some times you would find a leak in a valve body resulting from a poor casting. Finally, is the tube epoxied or brazed? I’m just curious if this could possible be a factory “fix”.

BTW, enjoyed the read.
 
Could anyone enlighten me as to how to get the shifter arm out of my Hurst shifter? I removed the locknut and bolt but the arm will not come out. Is there some kind of clip that needs to be pulled back like on an electrical connector or something?

Shifter #3.jpg


Shifter #4.jpg


IMG_4068.jpeg
 
Yes, use a stiff feeler gauge to slide into the Crack between the handle and the slot and trigger the release clip.
 
I will be getting back to it Wednesday or so, I will update then. Thank you. As far as the weld goes, I have no idea.
 
66Glassback said:
I will be getting back to it Wednesday or so, I will update then. Thank you. As far as the weld goes, I have no idea.
Click to expand...
That is an aftermarket shift handle for 67 up A-Body. If I remember correctly the whole shifter needs to come apart to remove the lever. Do you have a center console? I'll post a 64-65 original Hurst shifter tomorrow.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top