340/416 vs 383 vs 440

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71duster06

71duster06

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i know this may spark some opinions but I’m looking at which option the majority of mopar peers recommend. I’ve had my H code 71 Duster on the road for 10 years now and am looking at taking the next step in performance. It’s a 4-speed car with 3.23s and my best quarter mile time of 13.4 sec. anyways my next step is either buying a 416 stroker kit OR I have a stock 70’ 383 available or 68’ 440 that I can build. Anyways before I spend the money I want to ensure I’m spending it wisely. Mostly a street car with highway driving (occasional drag strip appearances throughout the year). I’m open to any pro/cons for each motor option. I’ve never owned a B.B. car so I’m relying on user input. Thanks in advance.
 
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Build the small block 416, big power in a small package. You can build a 550hp 416 with 10.5 comp .575 solid roller and 285 cfm heads , if put together right.

If you don't mind less compartment space and weight, build a 431 out of the 383 with the 440 crank, they work real good and will make the same power.
 
look at where you posted your question, an there in lies your answer

on a side note, i drove my 408 duster into GR for over a year, going to school at cornerstone
 
diymirage said:
look at where you posted your question, an there in lies your answer

on a side note, i drove my 408 duster into GR for over a year, going to school at cornerstone
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Ha fair enough. Since I don’t have much first hand experience with B.B.s I figured I’d come right to the source.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Build the small block 416, big power in a small package. You can build a 550hp 416 with 10.5 comp .575 solid roller and 285 cfm heads , if put together right.

If you don't mind less compartment space and weight, build a 431 out of the 383 with the 440 crank, they work real good and will make the same power.
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Thanks, that’s an interesting thought of the 431 route. I’ll have to read up on that as I have a few 440 crank/rod sets I could use too.
 
if you go to the BB you will need the motor, new exhaust manifolds or headers and a BB transmission.
 
71duster06 said:
Anyways before I spend the money I want to ensure

>>>>>> I’m spending it wisely. Mostly a street car with highway driving (occasional drag strip appearances throughout the year).<<<<<
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Big inch Small block-build a 360 block, swap it out over the weekend.
I have a Big Big block in a 72 Dart, >>> Tight, more work to get everything to fit
 
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honestly though, if you want street manners, a stroked small block might be the ticket
the same power as a big block, gobs of torque but not a ton of extra weight over the front axle

on a side note (and this is just a pet peeve of mine) if you have any 340 call outs on the car, you can leave them on with a 340 based stroker
but if your running a 440, or a 383 or even a 360 in there while the hoodscoops say 340, well, i just think it looks silly
 
Just to make thing EZ, I would stroke the 340 with a 4 inch (or greater) crank. Equipe the engine with the best and most well done heads as possible. Headers IMO should be at least stepped or straight to a 1-3/4 tube. Cam intake and carb as you need.

Going the B/RB route is great on a lot of levels. I have done it. It would be worth it and best when the LA option is at its limits and only big cubes solve the problem that the LA can’t do.

Don’t get rid of the big blocks. Store and save them. They may yet be useful to you later.
 
So you currently have a 13.40 1/4 mile small block motor? I dont know your budget but you will spend alot more going big block as you'll need another trans, radiator, exh man/headers etc.
 
No replacement for displacement unless your talking big blocks lol.

Why spend $3000-5000 on a 416 short block to come up with an engine that 30 cid smaller than a stock 440?

Id go 440 with trick flow heads roller cam 600-700 + hp.
 
273 said:
Why spend $3000-5000 on a 416 short block to come up with an engine that 30 cid smaller than a stock 440?
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Because it is cheaper and easier. No more, no less.
He retains the same trans, driveshaft, cooling etc... and other small parts that go with an engine swap. This saves a lot of money which can be rolled into a set of heads. Fully ported Edelbrocks, or Victors, or wait for Trick Flows?
The added weight of the B/RB can be a minor offset as well.
 
273 said:
No replacement for displacement unless your talking big blocks lol.

Why spend $3000-5000 on a 416 short block to come up with an engine that 30 cid smaller than a stock 440?

Id go 440 with trick flow heads roller cam 600-700 + hp.
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449 / Airwolf heads- presently in "More door" dart.
6.67 @ 103 >street car
Eng/ trans going in 73 Cuda project....

New heart for the "More Door' > 446 W-2

Waiting on good weather to paint the 540 Dart
be a good cruiser > 518 trans , 3.73 Dana

big or small I like them all...

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If he's gonna seriously step up his hp most everything gonna need to be upgraded probably anyways.

He could sell his 340 with headers rad bell housing etc... Go towards the trickflow topend kit.

440 with a trick flow top end will easily eclipse just about any small block build at similar cost. I dont see any advantage staying small block.
 
273 said:
If he's gonna seriously step up his hp most everything gonna need to be upgraded probably anyways.

He could sell his 340 with headers rad bell housing etc... Go towards the trickflow topend kit.

440 with a trick flow top end will easily eclipse just about any small block build at similar cost. I dont see any advantage staying small block.
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Thats because you ignored my post.
Ether way, it's his call.
For me, when I did my /6 - B block conversion, it was pricey. It would, cost the same as a small block from a /6. But he already has a small block there. IMO, the B/RB pays off well if your racing. Not so much otherwise. He will need a new trans, perhaps a new drive shaft, depends on the rear end thats in there now. If he makes a worthy big block, AKA, serious power, he will need a rear. Better radiator since a real powerful big block will not cool with a S/B rad.
How much for all the upgarded parts?
 
Really if I was the OP, theres ton of potential in what hes got. 1st put some real gears in like 4.30 possible more cam maybe down the road heads etc... theres lots to do before. Having to tear into the bottom end.
 
d1970 said:
if you go to the BB you will need the motor, new exhaust manifolds or headers and a BB transmission.
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diymirage said:
honestly though, if you want street manners, a stroked small block might be the ticket
the same power as a big block, gobs of torque but not a ton of extra weight over the front axle

on a side note (and this is just a pet peeve of mine) if you have any 340 call outs on the car, you can leave them on with a 340 based stroker
but if your running a 440, or a 383 or even a 360 in there while the hoodscoops say 340, well, i just think it looks silly
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completely agree with you on this one... yes I have the 340 decals on my hood and rear quarter that would have to change if I went away from the 340
 
rumblefish360 said:
Because it is cheaper and easier. No more, no less.
He retains the same trans, driveshaft, cooling etc... and other small parts that go with an engine swap. This saves a lot of money which can be rolled into a set of heads. Fully ported Edelbrocks, or Victors, or wait for Trick Flows?
The added weight of the B/RB can be a minor offset as well.
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all good points. for a good year now I have planned on going the 416 route but only recently looking/educating myself on BBs. having the two motors in the garage made if even more tempting but sounds like it would be a heck of a snowball effect swap. right now my major costs will be in the stroker kit, heads, and tti's. Ialready have efi and an LD340 or AirGap I can us on that motor "if" those are good intakes with the 416.

thanks again guys, this has been a beneficial thread
 
Not trying to be argumentative. It seem like you pretty much want a 416, and was just flirting with the idea of big block. Which I say go for.

But don't decide small block over basically a set of motor mounts :) If your building a 416 to 500 + hp your gonna need a rad anyways, you just stated you need tti so big or small block no matter there. Should step up to a scattersheild bellhousing anyways but if not how much is a 440 stock bellhousing anyways. So that leaves mounts. And you do have two decent small block intakes to work with but again you could sale it all to someone who wants a 13.40 340 car for a decent amount $$$$ and build a 440 or stroker 440 with a trick flow top end etc..
 
273 keeps countering me despite what I say. While there is a hint of truth to what he saying, he’s also leaving out much of what I state. I want to state for the record, that anti-big black nor do I think you should not do a big block. If that’s what you want to do, absolutely! Go for it! Having a big block Duster myself, there are some very excellent straight line advantages to the B/RB. Just looking into the heads, valve sizes, flow rates, pretty nice parts out there! Big inches available, many aluminum parts to get the weight down to about a small blocks weight.

If you decide to do the small block 416 the RPM air gap is the better manifold for a healthy engine. If you can have that ported out, do it!
 
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rumblefish360 said:
Just to make thing EZ, I would stroke the 340 with a 4 inch (or greater) crank. Equipe the engine with the best and most well done heads as possible. Headers IMO should be at least stepped or straight to a 1-3/4 tube. Cam intake and carb as you need.

Going the B/RB route is great on a lot of levels. I have done it. It would be worth it and best when the LA option is at its limits and only big cubes solve the problem that the LA can’t do.

Don’t get rid of the big blocks. Store and save them. They may yet be useful to you later.
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-I gotta go w/ this post. Way easier to work on. Unless u need bigger h.p. and gobs of torque !
 
rumblefish360 said:
273 keeps countering me despite what I say. While there is a hint of truth to what he saying, he’s also leaving out much of what I state. I want to state for the record, that anti-big black nor do I think you should not do a big block. If that’s what you want to do, absolutely! Go for it! Having a big block Duster myself, there are some very excellent straight line advantages to the B/RB. Just looking into the heads, valve sizes, flow rates, pretty nice parts out there! Big inches available, many aluminum parts to get the weight down to about a small blocks weight.

If you decide to do the small block 416 the RPM air gap is the better manifold for a healthy engine. If you can have that ported out, do it!
Click to expand...

My post weren't necessarily directed at you, I just find it funny there's only 2 engines okayed to be built on this site, 1st 408 and 2nd if you must a 360. Even though the OP wants build a 416 I'm sure if the discussion was continued to iron out a 416 combo, he'd be encouraged to sale the 340 and start with 360. Cause there's no replacement for displacement as long its a 360 or 408 lol
 
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