340 8 bolt 3.51 crank

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Well,'I'm going to ask.....

What would be a good balanced to obtain for use with the factory pulley set up?
Because I know some balances are a bit thicker than others.
 
I only use Fluidamper but they are thicker. But I beat my stuff up and the elastomer style made the bearings look funny.

You can get pullies with the correct offset with a thick damper.
 
I only use Fluidamper but they are thicker. But I beat my stuff up and the elastomer style made the bearings look funny.
What rev's are you regularly going up to? And is this for drag racing or? We used just a standard Pioneer elastomer damper in my son's 340 but it is a cruiser; I could not see the need for a high priced damper for a lot of 2000-3500 RPM operation.
 
That's a good point and I agree with on the Fluidamper, it is more than likely NOT your pedestrian or mild performance build. Considering (what I think is) the nature of this build, as mentioned earlier, an SFI spec damper is in order.

Who makes a thin SFI spec damper that works with stock pulley set up?
(I'm close to going this route myself.)
 
sounds good to me I do already have Cam from Hughes racing specked for this build but without it if front of me I can not remember the duration.
 
Just a Cruiser no Track just street to get the # 340 back in place of the mild 360, I do have the stock pulleys on the car now, however I also have a full setup of March pulleys.
 
What rev's are you regularly going up to? And is this for drag racing or? We used just a standard Pioneer elastomer damper in my son's 340 but it is a cruiser; I could not see the need for a high priced damper for a lot of 2000-3500 RPM operation.


My bad, as I have a different idea of what performance and streetable is. I turn my hydraulic cam stuff 6400-6500. After that, you need a solid.

My solid lifter stuff I turn 7000-7200.

Solid roller stuff 7500-7800.

I consider this street rpm stuff. My last race car was a 345 CID W5 alky burner that made peak power at 8200 and I shifted at 8800.

Your poop must be wired extremely tight to do this. I have done it long enough and wrong enough to tell you most guys won't spend the money to do it or the time to learn it. It cost me big $$$$$$$$$$$$ to do it. There were very few people to help me because very few people actually do it. The chevie guys are ZERO help because it's not a Chevy. You can't do it like a Chevy or you will run over the crank.

All that said, my new toy which I drove every nice day, is a 340 CID A body. I am 11.08:1, iron Pcar heads (I have every piece to do W2 heads later if I don't make enough power), Racer Brown custom cam (I will keep the numbers to myself for now because the lobes are just a few years old and I want to dyno it first and let Jim look over all the numbers as I told him when I ordered it but I will say I NET a bit over .600 lift and my LSA would be considered very tight by the masses and that Jim at RB spent several hours on the phone with me before using this lobe and the LSA we agreed on) a Strip Dominator and a 900 CFM Holley with BLP billet metering blocks and base plate. I an going to use Hooker 5303 headers (1.875 tubes with a 3.5 collector). I am going to keep the 4.56 gears I had and the Detroit locker. I drive it every day. It is a street car.

And yes, I am using a Fluidamper. I have seen enough that I don't want to step over donuts to pick up dog poop. Or my crank.

Sorry for the ramble.
 
I also would like to mention Innovators West. They make a damper that may be thinner than the FD or the ATI.

I was going to use one but at the last minute I decided against it. Not because I don't think they work, but I'm old enough to that I'm not in the test mode much anymore.
 
I'm not much into the test mode eather would rather go with tried and true, but I have been hearing about this Rattler From TCI sounds cool if it works as listed. Your build sound way more then I am looking for, hell I have no track close by, and it is for my suns Big old B body roadrunner. I do have a very fresh set of X heads with a mild port job standing by for this build.
 
I'm not much into the test mode eather would rather go with tried and true, but I have been hearing about this Rattler From TCI sounds cool if it works as listed. Your build sound way more then I am looking for, hell I have no track close by, and it is for my suns Big old B body roadrunner. I do have a very fresh set of X heads with a mild port job standing by for this build.



For what you are doing I have used Romac with good success. The issue I have is when the rpm's go up, you add stroke, decrease the rod to stroke ratio or do all of those things, you are asking ANY elastomer style damper to do the impossible. I think any good SFI balancer would work for you.


I just like to provide alternatives because people tend to get into a rut with products. And they tend to to quote what they are reading on line and in the comic book rather than real world uses.
 
Most guys don't out the screws to the engines RPM the way you do. Not that I'm arguing against it or saying it's wrong. Just knowing what the general public generally does.
Not that I fall in with the general crowd....:burnout:
 
Thanks guys for all the input where I live I do not have any mopar friends all my friends are cheby guys. waiting for my income tax to get the remainning parts, so I am now realizing im missing basicaly 4 parts, the balancer, the push rods, going to go with smith brothers on them, the head gaskets, and cam bearings. For the cam bearings are they one size fits all, the berrings i already have are clevite try metal , what should i be looking for in getteing a set of the cam bearing?
 
if you notice the rod journal is drilled for use with heavy standard rods. A light rod will allow for slight Knife edging without severe weight removed for balance issues.
 
there is 1 set of cam bearings that fits all 340 blocks, Clevite and others are very good. after installing new cam bearings make sure to trial fit the cam-some can be too tight
 
Thanks guys for all the input where I live I do not have any mopar friends all my friends are cheby guys. waiting for my income tax to get the remainning parts, so I am now realizing im missing basicaly 4 parts, the balancer, the push rods, going to go with smith brothers on them, the head gaskets, and cam bearings. For the cam bearings are they one size fits all, the berrings i already have are clevite try metal , what should i be looking for in getteing a set of the cam bearing?


Nothing wrong with SB. I use them all the time but have used some others.

As for the cam bearings, it's pretty hard to have an issue with them. I am using coated bearings for the first time. I think it doubled the cost. Do they work? I don't know. I'm not usually a fan of that stuff because if all else is correct, a bearing is a run of the mill deal.
 
Agreed, the tri metal clevite's are fine most everything you'll build unless a stupid all out race for the money heads up every time engine is what your building, then babbit might be something you look into.
 
Ok got this call yesterday from one of my uncles that knows I like older cars, one of my cousins that also lives in VA beach another NY transplant is down sizing due to her nest is now empty. So he asked me if anybody i know would be interested in an older father sun project 1973 Duster, that was a 6cyl transplanted to V8. I could not be leave my ears. My wife said I am nuts to go look as I have no more inside garage space but I have to look, ill post what I find.
 
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