340 Cam Kits which ones work with a stock block

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Those mufflers were killing me! Picked up 3/10th’s going to pypes racepros. You can get a bunch out of the intake and exhaust manifolds. You can get enough that you will surpass your limit on idle quality. Determine what you want to do with the car specifically. I have run 12.02 115mph through that intake and exhaust manifolds. All the magic is in the head.
 
In the field, without instrumentation, it's the best we got. Furthermore at your power level, it doesn't need to be dead-nuts accurate . We just need to the nearest 200 rpm, to be able to differentiate what you might have. It tells us a little about the efficiency of your engine, and why it's not burning up the tires, and helps to predict where it needs to go, if you up-size the cam.
It's like this; a given TC will stall differently depending on the input torque, and the output load. In a given chassis; You can take say a 904 TC from a slanty and put it on a stock 318, and it might stall 300 to 400 rpm higher. And then bolt it onto a stock 360 and see the stall rise another 200, and then onto a 340, and see it drop back to the 318 level. If you were familiar with the TC, you could tell by the stall,what engine was in front of it without ever opening the hood.
The TC is a key to unlocking off-the-line performance, because it lets the engine spool up to an rpm where the power is that you are needing to make it accelerate from a standing start, at the rate you want it to.
You can line up several TCs with a stall difference of 300 between each, and watch your take off go from; worn out nag, to hard working Betsy, to quarter-horse, to stallion, to Thoroughbred racer, with each change in TC; without ever touching the engine.
All a 318 needs is a 2800 to make it feel 40hp bigger. Then swap out the 2.73s for 3.91s and Hang on Harvey! It's like a mini supercharger.

Did two different test this morning to determine my TC Stall, after the test it looks like 2400, This was the first time I really got to test the car out since putting the 3:91's in and the new tires. From a 10 mph roll in 3rd gear the tach spiked right to 2400. So assuming that, I have a 2400 stall according to the guys I talked to. Two different test same results. I left it in 3rd gear and hit it from almost a dead stop and smoked the tires and she was sideways, she shifted into 2nd chirped the tires 3rd also a chirp. Now I just need my cam kit. Talked to Hughes Engine the last couple of days and they gave me their recommendation for a kit once I gave them the all info they required.
 
That's a bogus test, cuz the TC was not fully stalled, on account of the car was already moving. However, it proves the TC is probably a stocker. And the 340s were rated at 2350 +/-100; so you're in the ballpark of stock.
The chirp into second kind tells me one of three things; 1) the rpm was not high enough to continue the spin, or 2) the car has exceptional traction, or 3)
the low rpm power is already soft...... cuz with 3.91s it should be spinning both tires pretty much all the way through second, or at least 55/60 mph. 55 is about 4200rpm and so a little past peak torque, so yeah a healthy340 should do that easy.
Since yours does not, it speaks to the 152.5 average psi being correct. And so mandates the LD test.
Here's the deal, working the formula backwards to get 152 psi, the Wallace calculator says that your compression ratio is about 9.8, and her VP comes in at a soggy 117. The factory cam is a 268/276/114 with an ICA of 66*, in at 112.
The next bigger cam,one with just a little attitude, could be a 274/282/110
in at 108 the LSA is 65*, and now the VP climbs to a little less soggy number of 120
meaning......................... the power to about 3000/3500 will be about zero difference. The power difference won't be significant until late in the 3000s and peaks at about 5400. So lets say you begin to feel something at 3600, that would be 28mph in first, and 5400 will be 42 mph. and the shift will come about 6000/47 mph. Then the Rs will fall to 3551, and you start all over, in a part of the curve, where she is likely making less power than the current cam.So now in second, she struggles to about 4000/53mph, and then begins to take off again. By 60 she is getting on the pipe at 4500, and 65 will be around 4900. The powerpeak of 5400 is not reached until 71mph
So, this cam is working, and making more power than the current cam, from 28mpg to about 45mph, and again from 53 to 71. This is calculated using your 153psi.

Rub #1;
your 340 should have had 165psi@128VP with the current cam. If it would have 165psi, it would likely smoke that 274 at 153psi, especially below 3600/3500 . It would make about the same absolute power as the 274, but it would have a broader powerband , more suited to an automatic, and so it would make more average power. And the hotter VP number indicates a slightly stronger bottom end, about plus 7% And of course with just 44* of overlap, it will burn less gas than the 58* of the 274* cam, at lower rpms. On the hiway they'd be about the same with both pulling 65=3200@zero-slip.
Rub #2;
the rumpidy-rump is caused by overlap period, and the factory cam has 44* of it, so you know what that sounds like. The 292/108 in my 360 had 76, and it was quite noticeable.The 58* of this theoretical 274 cam is right up the middle..... but my current cam has 61* and at 700idle I can hardly hear it. Even when I drag it down with the clutch,it is just noticeable, soooo
I don't think you will be happy with the above cam.
That means you will be wanting a cam with more than 58* of overlap, and that is when things rapidly take a dump. Your engine does not have enough cylinder pressure for that,with the current TC, unless the LSA is really tightened up or if you go to a solid lifter cam with earlier closing intakes.
And that is why I keep coming back to the LD test, to prove you still have an engine. It may be that the LD proves your 340 is healthy, and that maybe the compression tester reads low, and then all is well. But it could also be that the cylinder pressure is leaking every which way, proving the compression tester is right, along with the 1-2 chirp.
Theoretically a 10.5 340 should have 165psi or more. If you gauge is right at 152, then you have 152/165=92% of what it should be. That is an 8% loss. That is at least as much power loss as the next bigger cam will get you; at least.IMO, you really need to look into it, even just to be sure.
 
RT so leave the converter alone for awhile
Have you changed your timing chain lately
If not do it
put one in where you can andvance current cam 3-5 degrees or 6
rerun your compression check and drive test
look no the front of the cam there may be numbers (or not they may be on the back
install one of those cam chain idler tensioners- they do help
AJ do not use any Mopar numbers to compare with any non mopar numbers
mopar does not get those measurement by measuring duration at some lift
they get it from the cam design blueprint
they look at where the clearance ramp meets the acceleration ramp and go 8 degrees further- same on the closing side
that's why it's impossible to degree one in using the timing numbers in the service manuals well not impossible- I've done it by trial and error- repeat-repeat
best to use centerlines
That said the 268 Mopar has very long ramps- It can practically wear out and still not make any noise intake is about 209 @50 Crane would say LOW INTENSITY
he can actually use 260 or even shorter with quicker ramps and much more duration at .200 you can get 209 @.050 with a 256 @.006 cam easily with around 125@200
run that through your dynamic calculator
say intake closes at 55 @006 compared to what he has now
 
The Wallace calculator works off the advertised numbers and speaks nothing about power, and is only used to compare low-rpm performance. Yes I know about the Mopar ramps, but they are not part of the Wallace equation.
And the OP is looking for the lope more than anything which is not affected by the slow-azz ramps.
Further, building compression cannot start until the intake valve closes so again, we CAN use the advertised numbers cuz that's all we got.
Yes it's true that not all cams use the same reference point to determine the advertised, but IMO, for this size of cam, .002 one way or another is not gonna upset the calculations very much. Most hydros are now at .006, while a select few are at .008, and every once in a while I trip over a .004.
And bottom line is; I wasn't recommending the 274, only using it as a springboard to illustrate the lack of cylinder pressure issue and the problem with choosing a lopey cam as it might affect an already poor low-rpm performance.

If I failed in that, then I apologize.
 
I try and normalize the SAE 004 008 to 006
4 degrees does make a difference- when racing 2 does
Isky Megacam is different on the Intake on the Exhaust
Intake is 009 I forget the exhaust
there is one that uses different opening and closing
Crane and all the big grinders (Speed Pro, Wolverine, Camshaft machine) all use SAE which is .006 at the valve which is even better. For MOPAR with 1.5 it works out to .004- I usually compare with SBC- if they are the same I pass
Are you ready to Rumble?
He wants rumble change the mufflers
 
nice cam sound but don't want to sit at a light and rock and roll, want to be street able.

Nobody wants a cam that sounds bad *** then dies when you step on the gas under 3500 of more
 
nice cam sound but don't want to sit at a light and rock and roll, want to be street able.

Nobody wants a cam that sounds bad *** then dies when you step on the gas under 3500 of more
Oh you’re talking about AJ’s came recommendations. He spends too much time in the calculators.
 
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