340 Stroker Build Need LOTS of Advice

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duster3

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So I am resurrecting an old project of mine. I bought an old 340 motor from a friend, tore it down. Had it chem dipped and sonic checked, which turned out good. Then came into some money issues"got married" haha so I sprayed oil on the block, shrink wrapped it and put it away for a few years. Now its time to build again!
I am looking to do a 416ci build. Let me tell you what I have/want and maybe get some advice from you guys. It will be a STREET car, I want enough vacuum for power brakes.

The big questions I have are what cam shaft specs and what pistons to use. Hopefully be in between 10-10.5 Static Compression on +91 gas.

Here we go

~340 block .030 over
~Edelbrock Aluminum heads Performer RPM, Aluminum, Assembled, 65cc Chamber, 171cc Intake Runner
~Edelbrock 750 Carb
~Edelbrock Performer Intake
~Long Tube TTI Headers

I have never done the math on how to make a good motor, nor do I know how to. Mostly just throwing stuff together for old vehicles. But I would like to do this right, the first time.
These are the two rotating assemblies I was looking at. Big Question, Flat top or Dished Piston for the compression I am looking at.

Balanced:Yes
Pistons Included:Yes
Piston Material:Forged aluminum
Piston Style:Flat top, with two valve reliefs
Piston Head Volume (cc):+5.00cc
Wrist Pin Style:Floating
Piston Ring Facing Material plasmamoly
Crankshaft Included:Yes
Crankshaft Material:Forged 4340 steel
Engine Balance:Internal
Connecting Rods Included:Yes
Connecting Rod Material:Forged 4340 steel

Or

Connecting Rod Beam Style:I-beam
Piston and Ring Oversize (in):0.030 in.
Piston Material:Forged aluminum
Piston Style Dish, with a D-shaped cup
Piston Head Volume (cc):+20.50cc
Wrist Pin Style:Floating
Piston Ring Facing Material plasmamoly
Crankshaft Included:Yes
Crankshaft Material:Forged 4340 steel
Engine Balance:Internal
Connecting Rods Included:Yes
Connecting Rod Material:Forged 4340 steel
Connecting Rod Beam Style:I-beam

Any other info you guys need just let me know, thank you for the help in advance. Also if you guys have any tips/ tricks from past experience, I will be like a sponge absorbing knowledge.
Thanks again!
 
Wow! Ummm, I’m not sure what to suggest for a cam being there is a lack of information like gears, tire size, intended useage, etc....

The only thing I recommend is sell,trade,swap out the performer for a RPM. (And a good full head porting when money allows!)

Wallace racing has calculators for compression ratios. Go there and do some inputting of Numbers and see what comes up for your exact ratio and what your willing to live with.

Click here——> Compression Ratio Calculator - Wallace Racing
 
rumblefish360 said:
Wow! Ummm, I’m not sure what to suggest for a cam being there is a lack of information like gears, tire size, intended useage, etc....



Oh yeah, sorry about that. So the gears are 3:55 in a 8 3/4 rear end, on 245 tires. The trans is a 727. Intended use is city driving(woodward loop in MI)
I also was in the talks with a guy to do a full gasket match port job on the heads, good idea!
Click to expand...
 
Press the reply button, wait, the below and outside the quote tags.
This makes for easier reading. ;)
Well, you won’t need a big cam with the big cubes! That’s for sure.

@AJ/FormS he can work out a interesting cam for you mathematically speaking.
Or wait for those that have done this as well.
(Not to sure if AJ has done the s exact thing engine/drivetrain wise.)
 
Thank you for the hint with replying, sorry about that.

And for the camshaft, thats what I was thinking. I tried reading about them in other forums and it just made me more unsure of what to get lol Hopefully something mild to do a couple burnouts at parties and drive able for cruising.
 
Well, I sent AJ a message with a link.
I’m not sure what cam I’d slide in for what you want to do.

I also mentioned porting the head. In retrospect I might skip that for your application and just do what your doing.

That was a bad mention by me I think. We’re not racing, just cruising. And yea man! Torque galore you’ll have for burnouts.
 
Jegs sell a nice forged and balanced rotating assembly to go from 340 to 416
Costs just a little over 2k complete
Part number is 1-48015B1
Comes to about 10 to 10.5 compression with eddies. uses dished forged slugs
Pretty much same kit i have in a 418 but my pistons are flattops. Wanted more compression than you are wanting for just street use.
This will more than give you a grin when you hit the loud pedal
 
Thank you for messaging AJ, I appreciate that.

And I dont think it was a bad idea at all, I got the quote and he said it would be $1k. Kinda rich for my blood right now. I can always pull the heads off another year and port them over the winter if Im bored enough I guess.

Nothing beats a good burnout.
 
@B34, that was actually one of the kits I was looking at/pulled the specs from for this post. Thank you

@justin, thanks for the contact info. I am going to try the compression calculator Rumble sent me to get an idea for what Im doing.
 
These two guys ^^^^^
have stroker experience.
Smart too!
 
Here is a picture from a compression calculator @rumble put on here for me. I looked on this forum and seen that the deck height is probably .018 so I added that in.
I looked on summit for the gasket bore diameter and chose the 4.080 because I didnt want overlap into the cylinder, at least that is what makes sense to me lol

The compression seems low to me for what I thought I want. Did I miss anything guys?

Thank you all

Compression 416.PNG
 
Second the use of Dwayne Porter for cams.
He has done( or recommended) every cam i have used for the last probably twenty years
He is a comp dealer. Can set you up with the correct springs and such to make fireup a breeze

Make sure you have somebody qualified to look your eddies over before running them.
They can often have assembly issues..... tight guides, etc.... out of the box.....
 
If your using the felpro 1008 gasket...... many do..... works great...
Its 4.180, not 4.08, and thickness is 0.39

With a dished slug and eddies your going to come out just short of or around 10 to 1.
Nothing wrong with that for a driver at all. Will still make gobs of torque and horsepower.
My current motor in my car is a 360. Factory piston was 27 in the hole. Got it up to 10.4 compression running an 028 gasket and milling my eddies about 40 thou
Were i you, i would run the 1008 gasket and leave the heads uncut
 
I will try to get a hold of Dwayne Porter and get some insight on that side. Sounds like I will leave the heads alone, just double check everything for a street car. Thanks for the 1008 part number. This will be a fun build.
 
duster3 said:
I will try to get a hold of Dwayne Porter and get some insight on that side. Sounds like I will leave the heads alone, just double check everything for a street car. Thanks for the 1008 part number. This will be a fun build.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good plan

Pretty hard to keep an eddie stroker out of the 11’s at the track, even without much gear or convertor. You will smile
 
Stall converter gets matched to everything you have yet to build as well as the cars weight, intended purpose, gears/tire size and etc.....

Wait until later for the converter
 
For 91 pump gas it's safe to be around 9.5-10 to 1 compression. That's a 20cc-18cc dish with a 4" stroke and "65cc" heads (67cc measured). Cam doesn't seem like it's going to be that big to bleed off compression.

  • Scat balanced rotating assembly forged or cast. Cast will take 525-550 hp.
  • RPM dual plane or Air Gap dual plane intake
  • 750 double pump
  • 240-250 deg @0.050, .500-.550" lift cam ballpark range.
  • Edelbrock springs IIRC are good to .550" lift
  • TTI or Thorely stepped headers.
 
Thanks for all the replies, @B34 Im around Waterford, how about you.

Sounds like converter is last on the "purchase" list.

@autoxcuda Did you try that combo in one of your rides, or are you thinking thats a good set up for me? I was going to do Forged pistons, rods and crank.

I hope this motor Im trying to build will keep me from the laughing gas"No2" I say that because I have a different 340 in my Duster right now, and that would just be to easy to get a boost in power.
 
duster3 said:
Thanks for all the replies, @B34 Im around Waterford, how about you.

Sounds like converter is last on the "purchase" list.

@autoxcuda Did you try that combo in one of your rides, or are you thinking thats a good set up for me? I was going to do Forged pistons, rods and crank.

I hope this motor Im trying to build will keep me from the laughing gas"No2" I say that because I have a different 340 in my Duster right now, and that would just be to easy to get a boost in power.
Click to expand...

Yes. Run errands around town in it, go to the grocery store, drive it to the track 180 miles round trip in 90+ deg weather, drive it in LA traffic jams, etc. got 10K+ miles on it since 2011.

I run a machanical 274-S cam and a single plane since the occasional "track" for me is a road course with long straights.

Something in the range of an hydraulic comp 275HL or a one set hotter 285HL would work. Not sure if the 285HL will have enough vacuum for power brakes.

This is idle in my car with TTI step headers, turbo mufflers and full exhaust out back

 
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@autoxcuda
Very cool ride, thank you for posting that video on here for me. Im glad to hear your combo is working good over the years. I would still want the power brakes just for ease of driving, so the milder cam would more then likely be better.

Im very great full to everyone who has posted on this thread! You guys rock
 
A few of us could recommend you a cam that would make it produce a lot of power with those components, but...

Would you go along with the required drivetrain parts to make it all work right?
 
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